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Vacheron Constantin’s latest additions to the Fiftysix roster imbue the watches with retro styling, thanks to the new two-tone grey tuxedo layout.

The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix is somewhat anomalous in the brand’s catalogue, which is also what makes it so divisive. Released in 2018, it was the brand’s answer to ‘accessible’ luxury, pulling few punches in craftsmanship whilst opening the door to a new generation of watch enthusiasts. Though some demean the base line for the omission of certain Vacheron Constantin signatures, such as the Poinçon de Genève, it still excels in its position as an everyday, dress-leading timepiece with mid-century design cues.

What also makes the roster so compelling is its easy-to-follow hierarchy, from its base three-hand models to precious metal variants and complications, some of which do possess that legendary Geneva Hallmark. This year, Vacheron Constantin has elected to expand the roster even further with two contemporary takes on the model line.

House Greyjoy

The watches in question are the new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix models in two-tone grey, or what might classically be known as the Tuxedo format. Both watches come in stainless steel, though their measurements differ slightly depending on their complexity.

The first of the duo is a classic three-hander, sized to the same 40mm-wide, 48mm-long and 9.6mm-thick profile as its peers. The other piece provides more baseline visual intrigue: a Complete Calendar, the first steel model since the previous line’s discontinuation earlier this year. It seems the hiatus wasn’t going to be long, as it comes in the same 40mm-wide, 48mm-long and 11.6mm-thick case as its fallen brethren.

In any case, the profile of each watch is still evocative of a classical dress piece, though both are now designed with the modern wrist in mind. In particular, I like the crown configuration, which recesses into the case flank to protect it from bumps without the need for crown guards.

Both watches come on a colour-matched grey nubuck leather strap, which terminates in a butterfly deployant clasp. Again, it’s a decidedly modern addition to a retro-leaning dress watch, but one that offers a convenience often overlooked by other luxury brands. With 30m of water resistance, there’s no question about what kind of watch the new Fiftysix models are, though Vacheron Constantin is confident enough in its watchmaking to keep them ticking reliably throughout the day-to-day.

Fifty(six) Shades

Beyond the elegant case silhouette, both watches’ designs merge their own heritage with one of the prevailing aesthetic trends of mid-century horology. More specifically, the Fiftysix takes after Vacheron Constantin’s 1956 Ref. 6073, while its visual appeal is further enhanced by the use of a tuxedo layout.

Alternating two tones of grey, both watches feature a fumé centre surrounded by an opposing grey shade. Accompanied by the Fiftysix’s classic indexes, hands and applied Arabic numerals, Vacheron Constantin takes a slightly different approach depending on the model.

For the three-hander, the opaline centre uses a lighter grey gradient, transitioning outwards into a darker grey sunburst chapter ring. A snailed light-grey peripheral minutes track provides another layer of textural contrast, while the date aperture at three o’clock is carefully aligned with the inner minutes track.

The Fiftysix Complete Calendar essentially inverts this approach, beginning with a dark grey fumé that contrasts sharply with the light grey outer ring. Vacheron Constantin has also added another ring of dark grey through the presence of the pointer date complication, where the date is read through numerals on the periphery of the dial.

Within the inner dial, elements such as the month and day windows are displayed in white, while a grey moon floats against a similarly dark grey backdrop. Between the two, I’m quite partial to the Complete Calendar, but the three-hander does an admirable job of using its understatement as its greatest strength.

Crossed Up

Turning each watch around yields a different result, as seen through their open casebacks. If it wasn’t already obvious, both watches are accompanied by their own respective movements. Vacheron Constantin’s more accessible three-hand Fiftysix uses the automatic Cal. 1326, beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 48-hour power reserve.

The primary reason why it’s more accessible, other than its relative simplicity, is that it’s based on movement architecture from the Richemont-owned ValFleurier movement manufacture. Though this means it misses out on the Poinçon de Genève certification, it remains in line with the reliability and finishing standards expected of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece.

Alternatively, the dearer Complete Calendar model uses the automatic Cal. 2460 QCL/1, with the same 4Hz beat rate but just 40 hours of power reserve. Driving the day, date, month and moonphase indications, which are adjustable through in-case pushers, it’s also equipped with that prestigious Geneva Hallmark.

Hallmark or not, though, I wonder if Vacheron Constantin has plans to address the relatively short power reserves of both pieces. I understand in the Complete Calendar’s case that those complications would take a lot of energy to operate, but perhaps a mechanical upgrade is in the cards for the near future. Perhaps that’s a ValFleurier-related question, or maybe Vacheron Constantin is already working on it in their manufacture.

Initial Thoughts

When I heard that Vacheron Constantin was releasing a grey watch, I have to admit that I had to stifle a yawn. Grey dials, personally, aren’t the most compelling configuration for a timepiece, as they run the risk of making a watch look or feel too old-fashioned. However, the Fiftysix grey Tuxedo duo somehow manages to do the opposite, with its mid-century styling giving the watches a more contemporary feel.

And with a style as flamboyant as the Tuxedo look, I think the brand made the right call in using grey tones. Anything else might have been too extravagant, perhaps not appropriate for a watch that constantly exercises restraint.

Overall, though, Vacheron Constantin has delivered with this latest expansion of the Fiftysix model line, even if the additions amount to little more than colour changes. If anything, it certainly whets the appetite for what the brand has in store for the collection next.

References & Specifications

Australian Retail Price: AU$22,300

Availability: Available by inquiry from Vacheron Constantin boutiques, authorised retailers, or online at Vacheron-Constantin.com

Australian Retail Price: $52,500

Availability: Available by inquiry from Vacheron Constantin boutiques, authorised retailers, or online at Vacheron-Constantin.com