Zenith’s famous Calibre 135 gets the Double-Signed treatment for the second time, this time with famed American independent watchmaker J.N. Shapiro.
By now, you’re probably familiar with the Zenith G.F.J. and the Calibre 135 movement. Well, hopefully, but if you’re not, then here is a quick recap. Back in the late 1940s, Zenith embarked on a quest to produce one of the most accurate calibres yet. The brand developed the Calibre 135 with an oversized balance wheel. Why 135? Because it was 13 lignes (or 30mm in diameter in modern measurements) by 5mm thick, hence the name, 135.
The Calibre 135 was developed especially for chronometry competitions, where it dominated, winning over 230 awards, including five consecutive first-place prizes at the Neuchâtel Observatory trials from 1950 to 1954. Then, in 2022, Zenith revived the Calibre 135 by collaborating with master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo.
Fast forward to last year, and Zenith unveiled a new Calibre 135 in the form of the G.F.J. to celebrate its 160th anniversary, named after its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. The G.F.J. was a return to Zenith’s watchmaking heritage with a modern Calibre 135, echoing the past, but very much grounded in the present.
A New Double-Signed G.F.J.
Back in June, we saw Zenith release its first Double-Signed watch in the form of the G.F.J., which was done in collaboration with Japanese watchmaker Naoya Hida and with a very limited run of just 10 pieces; these sold out essentially on release.
Now, Zenith is continuing the Double Signed program with its second collaboration, this time heading west to California to work with American independent watchmaker J.N. Shapiro. Founded by Joshua Shapiro in 2018, the brand has become known for its traditional guilloché work, which is done in its own workshop. Shapiro has since expanded his capabilities, developing its own Calibre 26 movement and introducing the Resurgence timepiece.
For this latest G.F.J., Shapiro has brought his signature style to both the dial and movement, giving the Calibre 135 a distinctly American touch while retaining the overall design and proportions of the original G.F.J. The result is a limited edition of just 25 pieces, housed in an 18k rose gold case.
California Dreaming
As you would expect from a collaboration with J.N. Shapiro, the dial is very much the focal point of this watch. Crafted entirely in Shapiro’s California atelier, the silver dial features three different guilloché patterns, each produced by hand using rose-engine and straight-line machines.
Guilloché is one of those artisanal crafts that isn’t practised a whole lot in the traditional way these days, primarily due to the time it takes and, obviously, the skill required to do it perfectly. However, I feel it is still one of the best examples of dial craftsmanship there is.
The outer section of the dial features a barleycorn pattern, while the centre has a basketweave motif. At 6 o’clock, the small seconds subdial features Shapiro’s signature Infinity Weave pattern, which gives the watch another distinctive detail and separates it from the standard G.F.J. Both the basketweave and Infinity Weave are very reminiscent of the brickwork at Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle. Well, at least to me anyway.
The applied hour markers, surrounding rings and signature plates are all made from 18k rose gold, with the dial carrying both the Zenith and J.N. Shapiro names, alongside the G.F.J. initials. The hour, minute and seconds hands are also made from solid gold.
The beauty of the Double Signed program is that Zenith has allowed two different watchmakers with two distinct styles to apply each of their design hallmarks to the G.F.J. Hida’s version was much more subtle and subdued, with its solid silver dial, engraved numerals and blue accents. With this new G.F.J., Shapiro has gone in a more decorative direction, making use of different guilloché techniques to give the dial its character.
Bringing Something Different to the Calibre 135
But if you think the dial was something, then wait until you turn the watch over! Shapiro hasn’t stopped at the dial, and this is evident when you look at the Calibre 135 via the sapphire crystal caseback. The Calibre 135 features a decorative finish known as “damaskeening”, which is something you would traditionally associate with historic American pocket watches.
Not to be confused with Damascus steel, the art of “damaskeening” is a combination of guilloché and Côtes de Genève, creating a distinctive pattern across the movement’s bridges. It’s a nice change from the more traditional Geneva stripes and finishing we’ve seen on the G.F.J. models released this year, and it gives this particular Calibre 135 a different look, even when compared to the 160th Anniversary model with the Manufacture brickwork Guilloché on the bridges.
Outside of the stunning movement decoration, the specifications remain the same as the modern Calibre 135 found in the other G.F.J. models. It’s a manually wound movement operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz), with a 72-hour power reserve and features the large variable-inertia balance wheel with a Breguet overcoil. The movement is COSC-certified and is then further regulated by Zenith to run within ±2 seconds per day. It is a mesmerising movement, and one that I could look at over and over again.
A Familiar Case
Like its predecessors, the G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro is housed in a 39.15mm 18k rose gold case, measuring 10.5mm thick and 45.75mm from lug to lug, with a water resistance of 5 ATM.
The watch also comes with three different straps for those who like a little variety. These include a brown Cordovan leather strap, beige nubuck alligator leather and black calf leather, all fitted with an 18k rose gold pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J. initials. And in a similar vein to the 160th, for those who prefer something with more wrist presence, an 18k rose gold bracelet is also available upon request.
Initial Thoughts
By now, you have probably heard the news about Zenith and the plan to pivot the brand into a more high-horology brand. While Zenith hasn’t commented much on this yet, it just shows that even some of the most established brands in watchmaking aren’t immune to the current global economic climate. But it was clear that Zenith was already looking at moving upstream more when it launched the G.F.J. in 2025. And it seems that collectors would agree, given its continued success.
Not only that, but Zenith seems to be onto a winner with the Double Signed program. It takes the great design done by Romain Marietta and the team and lends itself to independent watchmakers who can add their flair to the watch in an interesting way.
So, it not only appeals to those who appreciate the history of the Calibre 135, but widens the net, so to speak, and talks to Zenith’s ability to be a higher-end watchmaker, not to mention the fact that it operates more like an independent within the LVMH group.
The watch itself is, however, quite good-looking. The guilloché dial is stunning with the three different techniques, and the damaskeening on the movement is another nice touch. It also gives us a chance to see some of the traditional techniques that Shapiro has built his name around, now applied to one of Zenith’s most important movements. And with just 25 pieces being made, I wouldn’t expect this latest version to hang around for too long.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specifications |
|---|---|
| Reference | 18.1865-1-0135/01.C215 – limited to 25 pieces |
| Dimensions | 39.15mm case diameter x 45.75mm lug-to-lug x 10.5mm thickness |
| Case | 18k rose gold |
| Dial | Engine-turned silver dial with all applied elements—including the double ZENITH and J.N. Shapiro signatures in 18k rose gold |
| Crystal | Flat sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire caseback |
| Movement | Manual-wind Calibre 135 with small seconds complication & COSC Chronometer certification, accurate to +/-2 seconds per day. Finished with Damaskeening and rhodium plating |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Beat Rate | 2.5Hz / 18,000VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap | Delivered with three straps: brown Cordovan leather, beige nubuck alligator leather, and black calf leather. 18k rose gold pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J. initials. |