Two new Heritage models proudly exhibit Moser’s Haute Horlogerie with classic pocket watch cues.
The name H Moser & Cie is one that has carried weight since the dawn of the wristwatch. Founded in the 19th century, Moser has long cemented their legacy in Haute Horlogerie by tastefully flaunting their ability to engineer and finish world-class timepieces, while retaining enough subtlety to allow for refined everyday wear.
In honour of that legacy, the aptly named ‘Heritage’ collection from H. Moser & Cie takes strong inspiration from the early 1940s and the design language of traditional pocket watches as they transitioned to the wrist. The brand’s latest release offers the same rounded cases, tapered lugs and notched crowns that define Moser’s Heritage collection – albeit with two distinct new dials that show how differently that history can be used.
The blue markings on the dial of the Heritage Chronograph White Fumé designate the piece for utility. It’s a watch that truly looks ready to measure something and boasts excellent legibility. Its tachymeter, twin registers and hour numerals stand out against a pale sunburst dial. A new three-hand variant exists in the Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé, which draws the eye with its brown gradient dial and oversized luminous numerals.
A Vintage Chronograph With Contemporary Charm
The Chronograph revitalises the classic aesthetic of Moser watches of the 1940s. Its registers at three and nine o’clock display small seconds and a 45-minute chronograph counter, respectively. The vibrant blue graduations separate those functions from its white fumé dial to create what is a really appearing visual contrast.
I love that Moser has incorporated cues from its heritage by reinstating its 1947 logo, a period detail that fits comfortably among the instrument markings and makes for an excellent talking point.
Inside is the automatic HMC 220 calibre fitted with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module. Truly a sight to behold through the rear sapphire. It offers a power reserve of at least three days, and displays an unsurprisingly stunning movement, flaunting its incredible finishing through the sapphire case back. The steel case measures 42 mm across and 13.8 mm thick, so I would want some wrist time before judging its fit. Those slim lugs look promising in the images, though there is still a fair bit of watch packed thoughtfully between the crystals.
Espresso, With A Little Glow
This piece will lose no beauty as the sun comes down. It will simply trade its gorgeous sun-burst effect for an impressive Lume to make for easy time-keeping in the dark. The sword-shaped hands make their impression on the Espresso Fumé, coated in Lume. Most impressively, I find the transparent lacquer logo on the piece to subtly direct attention towards the beauty of the dial. The brown sunburst effect subtly darkens as it fans out to the edges, injecting the architecture of this piece with warm depth. I find myself enamoured by the large, applied numerals, which Moser describes as being made from Globolight, a ceramic material containing Super-LumiNova.
The Espresso Fumé displays hours, minutes and central seconds by running on Moser’s slimmer HMC 200 automatic calibre. The engraved rotor and double-stripe finishing are also exhibited through a sapphire case back in typical Moser fashion on this piece, revealing the same calibre of assembly and finish that one would come to expect from the brand.
The 42 mm diameter of these pieces remains generous for timepieces with these period cues. Unfortunately, the press images can only tell us so much about how it wears. At 11.1mm thick, the steel case of the Espresso should tuck under a cuff more quietly than the White Fumé Chronograph.
Both pieces are limited. The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé, reference 8220-1200, is limited to 100 pieces. The Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé, reference 8200-1207, is limited to 200.
Initial Thoughts
I usually find myself gravitating irresistibly towards Moser timepieces for mind-blowing movement aesthetics paired tastefully with refined, multi-coloured gradient dials. This latest release feels like it stays in the same lane of refined, subtle luxury – albeit without the usual show-stopping features. Frankly, that seems to be exactly the point of these releases. To revitalise classic wristwatch aesthetics from centuries ago without trying to reinvent the wheel.
At a first glance, I lean towards the Espresso for its vintage charm and respect for tradition, which feels right on Brand for what I would typically expect from a Moser timepiece. I am captivated by the simplicity of the three-hand variant, which exhibits an intensely alluring dial. Simply put, this piece just ‘feels’ like a traditional pocket watch wrapped in contemporary features, all without losing its heritage.
With that said, there is also something distinctly enamouring about seeing the historic 1947 iteration of the Moser logo on the dial of the White Fumé variant. Its transparent logo somehow leaves the fumé finish alone, while those luminous numerals give the old pocket watch silhouette something useful to do after dark. Both pieces present subversively contemporary takes on classic wristwatches. As usual, Moser has made it work with these two gorgeous new offerings.
H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Chronograph White Fumé & Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé
References & Specifications:
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| References: | Heritage Chronograph White Fumé: 8220-1200 Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé: 8200-1207 |
| Dimensions | Chronograph: 42mm diameter × 13.8mm thickness Centre Seconds: 42mm diameter × 11.1mm thickness |
| Case Material | Stainless steel with a notched crown signed with an “M” on both models |
| Case Back | Sapphire crystal exhibition caseback on both models |
| Dial | Chronograph: White fumé sunburst dial with the historic 1947 Moser logo, blue tachymeter scale and chronograph markings, and Super-LumiNova on the hour numerals and sword-shaped hands. Centre Seconds: Espresso fumé sunburst dial with a transparent lacquer Moser logo, white railway minute track, applied Globolight numerals and Super-LumiNova-filled sword-shaped hands. |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal on both models |
| Movement | Chronograph: Automatic manufacture calibre HMC 220 with Dubois Dépraz chronograph module Centre Seconds: Automatic manufacture calibre HMC 200 |
| Power Reserve | Minimum 72 hours (3 days) on both models |
| Bracelet | Chronograph: Grey kudu leather, hand-stitched with grey thread. Centre Seconds: Brown kudu leather, hand-stitched with white thread. Both are fitted with a signed steel pin buckle. |