Salmon and midnight-blue dials give Frederique Constant’s Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date two fresh looks, with its signature mechanics still on show.
Open-heart timepieces are the perfect choice for those who want to bridge the gap between full skeletonisation and traditional dials. Few details in watchmaking say “mechanical watch” quite as clearly as a balance wheel moving beneath the dial, and Frederique Constant has made this one of their signature designs.
Six years after Aletta and Peter Stas started Frederique Constant, they launched the Heart Beat in 1994, a signature timepiece that has retained the opening at 12 o’clock on the dial to showcase the balance wheel, making the poetic movement of the mechanism visible from the front.
The open-heart mechanism has always been a great way to tell if a watch features a mechanical movement. But more so, it’s also a great compromise for those who want to be able to see the movement underneath without going down the full skeletonisation route. Essentially, a daily-wear timepiece with a hint of mechanical beauty underneath.
Frederique Constant introduced the Heart Beat Moonphase Date collection in 2014, which combined the signature 12 o’clock aperture showcasing the balance wheel with a moon phase and pointer date feature. Now, two new editions are making their way into the collection: reference FC-335MCSALB4P26, which features a salmon dial in a stainless steel case, and FC-335MCN4P5, which features a yellow gold-plated case with a deep blue dial. Both models will be permanent additions to the Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date collection.
Two Colours, Plenty Of Classic Character
The two new models are presented in the same traditional case design, with a 40mm diameter and an approximate thickness of just 10mm. While modern dress watches are getting sized down, this, for me, still acts as a great dress piece. As mentioned earlier, it bridges the gap between showcasing the mechanical intricacy of the movement underneath, or rather its beating heart, and a beautifully decorated dial to match.
The rounded silhouette of the case reminds me of old pocket watch designs, which certainly suits the traditional styling of Frederique Constant’s Classics collection. Combine this with a fully mirror-polished exterior, and it presents a refined, dressier appearance in which the surfaces also catch the light beautifully.
Frederique Constant is introducing the latest editions of the Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date collection in two different colour offerings: salmon or deep blue. Now, personally, I am having a hard time choosing between the two, as not only are both some of my favourite colours on a watch dial, but their execution, especially paired with the respective case materials, makes both models visually appealing.
Aside from the dial colours, there’s a lot more to admire too. Firstly, the highlight of the timepiece, the open heart, is shown in its signature 12 o’clock position, and it is sized just enough to show the balance wheel in full operation, so that the dial’s decorative features share some of the spotlight too. Then, on the opposite end at 6 o’clock, we have the moon-phase aperture. Having the two elements on opposite ends creates a balanced design, which gives each element its own space without making the dial feel crowded.
How the moon-phase aperture works with the two dial colours is vastly different too. For the salmon dial, we have more of a contrast, which allows the moon phase to stand out nicely. However, against the blue backdrop, it is more subdued and somewhat blends in with the overall dark blue “night sky”!
Then, of course, we have that beautiful Clous de Paris guilloché-style motif, with its small, repeating hobnail pattern. The decoration is stamped rather than being hand-cut guilloché, which helps to keep production costs down while still delivering a dial full of texture and depth. The inner hour ring features Roman numerals, which give the watch that classic dress watch aesthetic. The hours and minutes are indicated through open-tipped Breguet-style hands, while the outer part of the dial features the date ring, indicated through a separate hand.
A Closer Look At The Heart Beat
The movement housed in these latest Frederique Constant Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date models is the automatic Calibre FC-335. This movement is based on the Sellita SW200, with an additional moon-phase complication and an openworked cutout in the dial to showcase the balance wheel. It runs at 4Hz (28,800 VpH), while delivering a modest power reserve of 38 hours.
The timepieces come with an open caseback, which gives a view of the Calibre FC-335. While the decorative finishing is kept to a minimum, the winding rotor has been given a gold-plated treatment, allowing it to stand out nicely.
Initial Thoughts
Frederique Constant has breathed new life into its Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date collection with the addition of these two new colours. While the collection was previously primarily centred around traditional black and white dials, more recently, Frederique Constant has ventured towards using colours to showcase the models, with newer models featuring a beautiful dark green aesthetic and, of course, these two new editions in salmon and blue.
Personally, I love how well executed these latest Frederique Constant models are. Being a fan of vintage-inspired aesthetics, the classic styling of the case and dial elements is what initially draws me in. And then, also being a fan of skeletonised watches, it’s like this watch combines both watchmaking worlds without losing either of them. Picking between these two is certainly no easy choice either. The salmon and steel combo presents a warmer aesthetic, perfect for summer! Meanwhile, the blue mixed with the gold tones gives a far stronger visual contrast and is much more eye-catching.
Whichever colour you may prefer, however, these two latest editions of the Frederique Constant Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date show why it remains such a recognisable part of the brand’s watchmaking pedigree!
Frederique Constant Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date
References & Specifications:
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| References: | Salmon dial: FC-335MCSALB4P26 Midnight-blue dial: FC-335MCN4P5 |
| Dimensions | 40mm diameter × approximately 10mm thickness |
| Case Material | Polished stainless steel (salmon dial) Polished yellow gold-plated stainless steel (blue dial) Double-stepped bezel |
| Case Back | Sapphire crystal exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Salmon or midnight blue with sunray finishing and stamped Clous de Paris decoration; printed Roman numerals, Breguet-style hands, Heart Beat aperture at 12 o’clock, moon phase at 6 o’clock and central pointer date |
| Crystal | Convex sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment |
| Movement | Automatic calibre FC-335, based on the Sellita SW200, with hours, minutes, central seconds, pointer date and moon phase; 26 jewels |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Water Resistance | 60 metres / 6 bar |
| Bracelet | Dark brown leather strap with crocodile-pattern embossing and a pin buckle |