Piaget’s retro-cool horological expressionism continues with a new interpretation of the Andy Warhol. Except… where is it?
Piaget has piqued the interest of many a watch enthusiast in recent times. It seems that, in the 2020s, the brand has undergone something of a minor repositioning. No longer struggling to play second fiddle to its peers in the Richemont Group, it has instead doubled down on its most iconic characteristics.
One is its penchant for ultra-thin watchmaking, while the other is the incredible design language the brand possessed in the latter half of the 20th century. Historical pieces like the Altiplano and the Polo ’79 have become mainstays in the brand’s roster, while the dazzling Limelight Gala and Sixtie references characterise themselves with an esoteric yet elegant feminine flair.
However, the most interesting part of this turnaround has been the remastering of the Black Tie collection. Though it’s been a catalogue staple since 2014, it’s been most commonly associated with the mercurial artist, photographer and filmmaker Andy Warhol since the 1970s.
As such, the Black Tie has often simply been referred to as ‘the Warhol’. However, the name change in 2024 formally honoured the eponymous artist, with Piaget partnering with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts to secure the historic partnership. Since then, we’ve seen many iterations featuring gorgeous stone dials, but this latest contemporary look might trump them all.
Squircle Sensation
New to the lineup is the Piaget Andy Warhol Camouflage, introducing a spectacular new look that reflects Piaget’s renewed artistic interests. It arrives in a familiar yet striking 18k white gold case, measuring 45mm in diameter, 43mm lug-to-lug and a slim 8.08mm thick. The case finishing, as ever, is delightfully delicate and retro, featuring concentric gadrooning across its soft, TV-shaped profile.
Funnily enough, this gives the impression that the watch possesses crown guards, though this is by no means a beater, with its 30m water resistance. What it does do well, however, is slip under any cuff or sleeve it comes across. That said, you don’t forget you’re wearing it, as the 18k gold gives it significant substance.
The watch comes complete on a blue alligator leather strap, attached to a tiny set of lugs and terminating in a standard pin buckle. Overall, it’s a seamless wearing experience that only serves to enhance the elegance of those who wear it.
You Can’t See Me
And when I say that final sentence, I really mean it. I can’t even see the watch! Get it? Because it’s camouflaged? Well, in any case, the dial of the new Piaget Andy Warhol Camouflage is unlike any other in the brand’s roster. Using a mixture of sodalite and turquoise stones, alongside fragments of yellow and rose gold, Piaget recreates one of Warhol’s iconic works, aptly titled Camouflage.
Released in 1986, it was the very last print portfolio the artist ever made before his death the following year. What makes the series so compelling is how immediately recognisable the concept is. Warhol subverts the practical uses of camouflage, making it ironically conspicuous yet still instantly recognisable. Camouflage was a direct protest against what Warhol felt was the pretentiousness of Abstract Expressionism, serving as evidence of his, and the Pop Art movement’s, point that art is always informed by context.
To that extent, the 100 hours Piaget takes to craft this tribute dial results in a pattern that is both instantly recognisable and a heartfelt nod to the artist who made the watch famous. With only the Piaget typeface and a pair of white gold Dauphine hands interrupting the scenery, the marquetry makes for a refreshingly contemporary look that will, funnily enough, blend in elegantly with formal wear.
HiddenMasters
Turning the Andy Warhol Camouflage around, you’ll find only a closed caseback, bearing co-signed engravings from Piaget and The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, alongside Warhol’s own signature. Within, however, the watch houses the same movement as previous iterations: the automatic Calibre 501P1. With a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate backed by a 40-hour power reserve, the time-only Calibre 501P1 is more than capable of keeping up with the needs of its wearer.
One thing I missed mentioning in previous Andy Warhol releases, though, is that this movement replaces the old Calibre 534P, which featured in the former Black Tie series from 2014 onwards. There are three major differences between the two: a higher beat rate, increasing from 3Hz to 4Hz; a slightly reduced power reserve, dropping from approximately 42 to 40 hours; and a slightly thicker overall construction, which brings the case profile up from 7.6mm to 8.08mm. Honestly, while the increased case thickness is a bit of a downer, the higher beat rate demonstrates Piaget’s desire to continually upgrade its roster. Though, I would love to see just how thin they can make these watches!
Initial Thoughts
Having been surrounded by many artistic friends, the referential nature of the watch world is something I’ve never really struggled to appreciate. I take pride in that. Knowing the context behind the design of this particular dial allows me to convey it to all of you in a manner that I think you’ll find just as interesting as I do!
Again, Piaget’s shift back towards its retro aesthetic has only served to benefit the brand, and the latest Andy Warhol Camouflage model is simply the latest example. Though it is, ostensibly, a dial change, it’s one that’s been executed with a considerable amount of thought given to the source material, not to mention the luxuriousness to match! All in all, I continue to fall in love with what Piaget is doing with this latest chapter in its legacy, and I hope you now understand why.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | G0A51242 |
| Dimensions | 45mm case diameter x 43mm lug-to-lug x 8.08mm thickness |
| Case | 18k white gold |
| Dial | Camouflage patterned sodalite, turquoise, yellow gold & rose gold marquetry |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Closed, engraved |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 501P1 |
| Power Reserve | 40h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Blue alligator leather strap with white gold pin buckle |