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Why wear black when you can stand out in red? It’s a good question, and why we went hands-on with the Red Grape Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo dial.

Ever since Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection debuted in 2023, it has reshaped perceptions of Raymond Weil. Winning the GPHG Challenge Prize that year, it soon caught the attention of collectors and the general watch-buying public. The vintage style and value-driven proposition helped solidify this, not to mention the subsequent models in different colours and the addition of a chronograph.

The Millesime marked the beginning of a new direction for the independent, family-owned Swiss brand and gave it another feather in its cap, so to speak, and the latest additions to the collection launched earlier this year continue that momentum.

Now, Mario loves a good Tuxedo dial watch, and Sam loves the Millesime Chronograph, enough that he did buy it, but I’ve not spent considerable time with the Millesime outside of their experiences and over in Geneva back in April. So, I thought it was wise, and time, to get hands-on with the new 39mm “Tuxedo” dial models, and as the title suggests, I bet my money on the red.

First Impressions

Dubbed the Millesime Small Seconds “Tuxedo” (Thanks to the way the two colours contrast, like a Tuxedo in black and white does), and having sector dials that feel as though it has been lifted from the golden era of watchmaking and reinterpreted for today, the new 39mm Millesime Small Seconds is a great option for those who want an everyday watch without breaking the bank.

Of the three new colourways in classic black and white, the always versatile midnight blue, and red grape, as Raymond Weil calls it, the red really caught my attention. While the black and cream version is perhaps the most traditional, the rich burgundy gives this piece a little more personality without sacrificing the understated character that has made the Millesime such a success. That, and it looks a little bit of fun in a more serious watch category.

Photos give you part of the story, and don’t always do a watch justice, especially with a dial that plays with both colour and texture as the Millesime does. After wearing the Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo for a few days, I found the watch growing on me. The size most people will find perfect, especially those who like a good vintage piece, although I would have liked it a millimetre or two larger. The red pops, and the use of the grey in the dial and strap adds something a little more left-of-field.

The Design

Raymond Weil has wisely resisted the temptation to redesign what has become one of its signature collections, instead keeping the same case, proportions and vintage-inspired styling that helped the original win over collectors. The introduction of the new colours gives the collection more personality and lets people choose a watch to suit their style and tastes.

The red grape and light grey colour combination is, in my opinion, the boldest of the three Tuxedo models, and is the one that feels the most modern, straying away from the classic blue or black. The light grey hour ring acts as a neutral base, while the rich red centre and outer minute track frame it nicely.

While it keeps the elegance of the style and design, the use of red also injects enough warmth and character into what could be a standard dress watch. It’s a colour that changes depending on the light too. Indoors it appears quite subdued, almost brown in certain conditions, while direct sunlight brings out the richer red tones that make the watch stand out.

Like the rest of the Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo collection, the dial is built around a sector layout, which works perfectly with the contrasting colours. Each section has its own finish, creating subtle textures as you look at it from different angles and with different light play. The vertically brushed centre, smooth hour ring and snailed minute track all catch the light differently, giving the dial more depth.

The painted Arabic numerals are a nice throwback to vintage pieces, and the Art Deco style, including the hour and minute hands, tie in well together. Even though this is a more dress-styled watch, the hands filled with Super-LumiNova are a welcome addition, and these add another layer of practicality for everyday wear. The small seconds display at six o’clock also balances the dial nicely, with its recessed finish providing another point of visual interest without drawing attention away from the overall design.

Surrounding the dial is the familiar 39.5 mm stainless steel case, measuring just 10.25 mm thick. These dimensions are, in my opinion, one of the collection’s biggest strengths. The proportions will feel spot on for most people, giving the watch enough wrist presence without feeling big. However, depending on your preference and wrist size, it may take a little getting used to. I’ll elaborate on that shortly.

Raymond Weil has also done a great job with the finishing. The vertically brushed bezel contrasts nicely against the polished bevel and case flanks, while the flowing lugs help soften the overall profile. Combined with the domed glassbox sapphire crystal, the watch captures plenty of vintage charm without becoming a direct homage to any one particular era.

Raymond Weil has chosen to pair the watch with a grey calf leather strap. It is an interesting choice as the brand could have gone with a matching deep red strap. Would this have been a little too over the top for a watch like the Millesime? Perhaps, but it would give it even more character.

Nonetheless, the grey works, but if you have lighter skin, it has the ability to get lost on the wrist. It does come with quick-change spring bars, so you can always swap out the strap for another colour of choice should you wish. Given the 50m water resistance, you could pair this with a nice rubber strap for those warmer months, which would enhance the versatility of the piece. I should note that every version of the Millesime Tuxedo collection also comes on a steel bracelet option too if that is your thing.

How It Wears

If I were to sum up how the Millesime Tuxedo wears in a single line, it would be this: Smaller than the specs suggest, but an easy-wearing everyday watch. That’s the short story, so here is the longer version…

I’ll start with the size. At 39.5 mm in diameter and with a compact 46 mm lug-to-lug, the Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo has the ability to feel smaller on the wrist. If the watch were thinner than 10.25 mm, I would say I would feel like a 37mm or 38mm, but thanks to the thickness, it wears closer to how I perceive a 38mm to wear. The light colour strap also adds to this on lighter skin as it doesn’t stand out as much.

The other aspect of the design that determines how big or small it wears is the actual Tuxedo dial itself. The eye is drawn to the centre-coloured sector, and thanks to the smaller outer minute track and light hour track, it gives the impression of a smaller watch. It is a great trick to play when you have a larger-dimensioned watch on your wrist.

On the wrist, the wearing experience is solid. The grey calfskin strap is fairly soft and supple, so it needs a lot less “wear-in” time than other leather straps I’ve tried on previously. The polished pin buckle works on this watch as it keeps it simple and understated. Some would argue a push-button folding clasp would have been a better option here, but I think the pin buckle does the job just as well.

From an attire perspective, I decided to see how it felt when in pure casual clothes. In short, it works. The red grape colour helps dress the watch down a little, whereas the classic black or blue and black would look more formal. Would I wear the red grape in an actual tux? Maybe not, but the black or the blue and black models you could quite easily get away with in more formal attire. A darker strap would assist with this, however, so my recommendation would be to have two strap options on hand.

From a legibility perspective, there are no issues here. The darker painted numerals stand out on the lacquered hour track, and the lumed hands cut through the deep red inner sector of the dial with the inset running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock to track the time accurately. Nighttime is a little more of an issue, with just the hour and minute hands being filled with Super-LumiNova, but this is not a watch that really has a need for time-telling in the middle of the night.

The Movement

Turning the watch over reveals the movement through the sapphire caseback, the calibre RW4251. The RW4251 automatic movement delivers a 41-hour power reserve and operates at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH, and offers relatively dependable performance expected from a modern Swiss automatic movement. The 41-hour power reserve is on the smaller side these days, so I would have liked to have seen this increase a little.

While Raymond Weil doesn’t publicly state the movement’s origins, the RW4251 is widely understood to be based on the Sellita SW261-1 architecture, albeit with modifications and a custom rotor carrying the brand’s distinctive “W” motif. The Sellita-derived base has become a staple across the Swiss industry for good reason, with its robust construction and widespread availability of parts making it an easy movement for watchmakers to regulate and maintain over time.

Given the price point that Raymond Weil operates at, an in-house calibre would not be economically feasible for the Millesime; instead, Raymond Weil has opted for a proven platform that prioritises reliability and serviceability.

Speaking of the decorated rotor, overall, the decoration on the movement is relatively restrained, which isn’t surprising at this price point, but the view still provides a reminder that this is a mechanical watch designed for everyday. Much like the rest of the Millesime Tuxedo, the RW4251 focuses on getting the fundamentals right, pairing dependable Swiss mechanics with a design that remains the star of the show.

Final Thoughts

In writing this review, I have had time to reflect on my time with the Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo and what it offers the wider watch-buying public. And that is value. Raymond Weil is known for its no-nonsense approach to watchmaking, offering good value propositions via a wide range of styles and designs. Designs like the Freelancer and Freelancer Pilot, the new A.R.T. and of course, the Millesime among others.

In the current market, there are fewer and fewer luxury Swiss watches that can be bought new for under A$5,000, and this is where Raymond Weil plays to its strengths – offering affordable watches that are well made. No, they may not have in-house movements, but that is not what you are paying for here, nor should you expect it.

Sitting at a very reasonable A$3,750 on leather, and just under A$4,000 on the steel bracelet, the Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo offers people a good-looking, vintage-style watch that is well built and should not let you down.

At this price point, there are not many other brands that can offer the looks and style of the Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo. Perhaps Baume & Mercier and Longines can compete on this level, but both of which, until recently in Baume & Mercier’s case, are backed by the largest luxury watch companies in the world, vs Raymond Weil, which is still family-owned and operated. And that is saying something!

References & Specifcations

Feature	Specification
Reference	2930-STC-05450
Dimensions	39.5mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 10.25mm thickness
Case	Stainless steel
Dial	“Tuxedo” red grape dial with light grey accents
Crystal	Domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment.
Caseback	Snapped, with sapphire crystal
Movement	Automatic Cal. RW2451 with small seconds complication
Power Reserve	41 hours
Beat Rate	4Hz (28,800VpH)
Water Resistance	50m / 5bar
Strap	Light grey calf leather with steel pin buckle/steel bracelet with butterfly clasp

Australian Retail Price: AU$3,750 (Leather) / AU$3,950 (Steel)

Availability: Available now, in Raymond Weil authorised dealers or online at Raymond-Weil.com

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