Limited edition watches are a familiar territory with most watch brands these days. It brings a certain level of exclusivity, character and hype that attracts a broader audience.
So when Troy Barbagallo from Barbagllo Watches decided to do a limited edition for the second time, we knew it would be fascinating.
For context, Troy Barbagallo’s first-ever collaboration with a watch brand was in 2021 with Audemars Piguet. Audemars Piguet is one of the most prestigious watch brands. One would think this is setting up the bar too high, as this limited edition creation was, in fact, a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in yellow gold.
The timepiece was named the “Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar +8”, or nick-named “+8”. What’s so special about this watch? It was limited to only 20 pieces, sub-dials were done in green, and the 8 o’clock marker is a numeral instead of a baton-style hour marker. “8” represents GMT 8+, the timezone in Barbagallo’s home city, Perth.
In 2024, Troy raised the bar again with his second collaboration with H. Moser & Cie, an independent watchmaker of the highest calibre.
H.Moser & Cie is a Swiss watchmaking brand that creates rare watches. They manufacture watches in limited quantities, so if you miss out on a particular watch, chances are that you will not see that reference again.
Moser has four core collections: Streamliner, Pioneer, Heritage and Endeavour. The most notable collection among watch enthusiasts is the Streamliner collection. This is because of the brand’s first-ever watch in the “integrated sports watch” category. Streamliner collection has been described as a minimalist and contemporary elegance and pays tribute to the sleek automotive and locomotive designs of the 1920s.
Upon its release, the Troy Barbagallo H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+ captured the attention of watch aficionados around the world. Much like Troy Barbagallo’s first creation with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, this second collaboration also involves yellow gold.
As the name suggests, the base model used for this collaborative creation is from H.Moser & Cie’s Streamliner collection. Troy Barbagallo and Moser took the Streamliner Tourbillon model and gave some new impressive design aesthetics, ones that stay true to his style but also capture the identity of H.Moser & Cie and their stunning dials.
Case and Dial
H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+ comes with the exact case size of the Streamliner Tourbillon collection, measuring 40mm in diameter and just 10.3mm thick. The yellow-gold case is very aesthetic to look at, especially in person. It has the same level of polishing and satin-finishing that other Streamliner timepieces have undergone.
The dial of the Troy Barbagallo H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+ is simply beautiful and elegant. From all different angles on the wrist, the watch stands out and demands attention. Unlike what you may see in the press photos, the dial has a distinctive brushed sunburst pattern. This brushed finish continues directly onto the case, which is the level of aesthetic detail that H. Moser & Cie is known for.
Troy Barbagallo took the design of the existing Streamliner Tourbillon and tweaked it to his styling. The end result is a dial with just the right amount of detail that isn’t as simplistic as H. Moser & Cie’s other notable timepieces in the Streamliner collection. It also lets the impressively detailed finishing of the dial stand out. The dial is also a shade or two darker in gold colour compared to the case, which allows the viewer to be drawn in and not be taken away by the beauty of the case and bracelet design.
The winding crown at the 3 o’clock position carries the H.Moser& Cie logo “M” and is a screw-down design that helps support the 120-meter water-resistance depth rating. At the 6 o’clock position is the finely crafted tourbillon, which adds complexity to an otherwise beautiful three-hander dial. The other subtle addition from Troy Barbagallo is the 8 o’clock hour marker finished with an emerald, representing GMT 8+, the timezone in Barbagallo’s home city, Perth.
Another subtle addition to the dial is the H.Moser & Cie’s logo underneath 12 o’clock position. The logo was removed from previous editions of the Streamliner Tourbillon. On the Ventablack Tourbillon model, the logo would’ve stood out almost instantly regardless of how subtly it would have been done due to the deep richness of the black colour. On the Troy Barbagallo H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 8+, the logo is clearly visible at certain angles. The brushed sunburst finish of the dial also helps to blend in the logo.
Bracelet
While we are used to seeing this integrated bracelet design matched with the beautifully designed cushion-shaped case for some time now, as this is the standard design of H.Moser & Cie’s Streamliner collection, seeing it in yellow gold material was refreshing.
The bracelet has the same brushed finish as the case, which adds that extra level of detail. The photos don’t do this bracelet enough justice, as seeing it in person is a worthwhile experience. The bracelet, like the case and dial, plays beautifully with light.
Movement
The movement in the “+8” retains the previous Streamliner Tourbillon calibre HMC 804. The HMC-804 movement is the brand’s in-house automatic movement calibre, which runs at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vph) and has a three-day power reserve.
The HMC 804 calibre has some clever ways of counteracting the effects of gravity on the movement, firstly through the one-minute flying tourbillon and secondly through H.Moser & Cie’s patented double hairspring. The use of two identical hairsprings acts to compensate for any positional errors.
The high level of movement detail and finishing are the same as the Streamliner Tourbillon collection, with the notable exception being the winding rotor, which is now made from yellow gold to match the case. The HMC 804 calibre movement can be seen thanks to the timepiece’s open case back.
How does it wear?
To describe in one word how the “+8” wears would be “WOW”. Now, I have tested out many watches over the years, and when I first tried on the watch before the release, I instantly fell in love, mostly due to how the watch sat on my wrist. At 40mm x 10.3mm thick, the case is slim in size, meaning on my 16.5cm (or 6.5 inches) wrist, it made it super comfortable to wear. It was so comfortable that I had difficulty in wanting to take the watch off.
Even though the star of the watch is the double hairspring flying tourbillon, the way the rounded cushion-shaped case and the bracelet blended together with the brushed and polished surfaces was the key attraction for me. The dial has some depth to it as well. If you look at the dial directly, you will see the brushed sunburst effect, and when you tilt the watch slightly, the sunburst effect will vanish and become a mirror finish dial.
Priced at 228,000 AUD and limited edition to 33 pieces, the “+8” is a one-of-a-kind watch that Moser and Troy have created. From every angle, you will find something to fall in love with this watch, whether it’s the Emerald at 8’clock, the double hairspring flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, the sunburst to a mirror-finished dial, the subtle logo on the dial, or the exquisite polish and satin finished casing and bracelet. This watch will definitely keep you entertained every time you put it on.
Specification
- Case: 40mm, 10.3mm thick
- Case Material: Yellow Gold, with a combination of brushed and polished finishing
- Dial: Sunburst yellow gold dial, Double Hairspring Flying Tourbillon at 6 o’clock and Emerald at 8 o’clock.
- Crystal: Domed scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides
- Water resistance: 120m (12BAR)
- Movement: Calibre HMC 804
- Power reserve: 72 hours
- Bracelet/Strap: Yellow Gold Bracelet
