In Bleu de Malte and Blanc Chantilly, the new Hermès H08 watches are contemporary watches with a distinctive Mediterranean flair.
The inescapable truth is that watches are fashion. While in the past, fashion houses moving into the watch industry were met with some derision, many have since earned their place in horology through innovative craftsmanship, a surprising level of heritage, or a healthy mix of both. But while more fashion brands begin to take a crack at the watch world themselves, perhaps none have been as meteoric in their success as Hermès.
The Parisian powerhouse has been in the watch game since 1912, though its big break wouldn’t come until 2011. That year, the brand would win a GPHG award for its Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, which stirred up plenty of speculation about its dedication to the craft.
Ten years later, in a reinvigorated watch industry, the brand would release a new, contemporary collection in the H08, which has since become a flagship model in its catalogue. With a singular design principle, a simplistic yet recognisable case silhouette, and an eye for mechanical perfection, much of Hermès’ modern success can be attributed to the H08’s popularity and appeal.
In the last few years, the brand has experimented with the platform, introducing new interpretations in carbon fibre, rose gold, and even skeletonised dials. But perhaps its most compelling addition was the use of braided glass fibre composites, introduced to the H08 line at Watches & Wonders 2023. This year, Hermès adds two more watches to the lineup in distinct colourways that are perfect for summer wear.
Mamma Mia!
The Hermès H08 Bleu de Malte and Blanc Chantilly don’t reinvent the wheel of the collection, but instead give it a new, brighter attitude that still doesn’t feel too in-your-face. The case size remains the same as always, measuring 39mm across, 42mm lug-to-lug, and 10.6mm thick. Having tried on multiple H08s, I can attest to their comfort on the wrist. Though square-cased watches tend to wear larger, the 39mm sizing is perfect for most, and the relatively thin case helps offset its blockier nature.
However, much of the wearability can be credited to Hermès’ historic use of lightweight case materials. Titanium and carbon fibre are frequent weapons of choice, but these models instead use braided glass fibre composites. Packed tightly together and coated in aluminium, the case material is both surprisingly light and tough.
Furthermore, the compression of the glass fibres creates a unique, layered pattern that can never be repeated, making each watch a one-of-one. The marble-like finish of these cases is much lighter than that of the fibreglass H08 models that came before, and perfectly complements the ceramic bezels, available in either blue or pure white.
I’m immediately reminded of the blue-domed buildings seen in Mediterranean destinations such as Oia in Santorini, which might just be the perfect environment to be seen wearing one. Should you decide to take a dip in the ocean, Hermès has you covered with the H08’s sporty 100 metres of water resistance. The integrated rubber straps, colour-matched to each respective reference, are also exceptionally comfortable, complete with a folding clasp and buckle combination to match.
Gimme, Gimme, Gimme
While the new designs might seem like mere colour changes, Hermès’ adjustments to each H08 go a little further beyond the surface. From the outset, both share the same base features: applied soft-geometric Arabic numerals designed by Philippe Delhotal; separated inner five-minute and seconds tracks; and a lumed baton handset with an orange-tipped, arrow-like seconds hand. However, between the previous fibreglass references and these two new models, that’s where the similarities stop.
Starting with the Bleu de Malte (French for ‘Malta Blue’), it introduces a white crystal sandblasted finish, with a texture much smoother than that of its peers. The sunken five-minute track is gone, replaced with a radially brushed blue ring, while the accents on the hands and indexes have also been finished in blue.
By contrast, the Blanc Chantilly (Chantilly White) model emphasises depth more than colour variation. The applied numerals are finished in dark grey, with rhodium outlines that complement the handset. A white lacquer background engulfs the dial, save for the five-minute track. Instead of being flat or fully sunken, Hermès has opted to include a vinyl-like finish running the length of the track. Distinct from the glossy, near-monochromatic colour scheme, it manages to preserve legibility while still offering a contemporary appeal.
SOS
Turning the watch around, it’s apparent that Hermès still uses the excellent Cal. H1837 as its catalogue staple. Visible through the open caseback, the automatic movement beats at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800VpH), with a reasonable 50-hour power reserve.
A highly modular base movement, the Cal. H1837 was designed and manufactured in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, in which Hermès owns a 25% stake. With a reach that extends to TAG Heuer, Parmigiani Fleurier, Carl Suchy & Söhne, and even Richard Mille, the luxury movement maker is a powerful ally for Hermès to have in its corner.
Though one could say that ‘money talks’, it still has to be put in the right place. Investing in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier doesn’t just demonstrate the abundance of resources Hermès has at its fingertips; it also underscores how seriously the brand has decided to take this chapter of its watchmaking legacy.
Initial Thoughts
Far be it from me to sing the praises of one of the largest luxury goods brands on the planet, but Hermès knows how to make moves in the watch world. While some might dismiss its efforts as simply diversifying its income within the watch space, even a slightly closer look makes it clear that the French brand is going to war with the watch industry.
Continuing to expand the highly varied H08 roster, alongside other collections like the Cut and iconic Arceau, is just further supporting evidence of that notion. So while the materials and colour schemes of the Hermès H08 have changed, the mission has not. It’s clear that the brand won’t stop until it becomes one of the most dominant forces in the watchmaking industry, and I, for one, can’t wait to see them give it a go.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | W408520WW00 (Bleu de Malte) W408396WW00 (Blanc Chantilly) |
| Dimensions | 39mm case diameter x 42mm lug-to-lug 10.6mm thickness |
| Case | Braided glass fiber composite with blue / white ceramic & titanium |
| Dial | Crystal sandblasted white with blue & orange accents Lacquer white with black & orange accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. H1837 with date complication |
| Power Reserve | 50h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100m / 10bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Blue / white rubber strap with titanium folding clasp |