Inspired by the sunsets of Naples, the DOXA SUB 200T Afterglow pairs a pink sunray dial with compact dive-watch proportions, limited to 50 pieces.
At DOXA, colour has never been incidental, but rather a carefully thought-out choice that reflects the design and functionality of the timepiece. A brand that has never been shy about allowing colour to really bring its dials to life, its latest collaboration takes inspiration from something a little different: the fleeting glow of a Florida sunset!
DOXA’s connection with dive watches stretches all the way back to 1967, when the brand introduced the original SUB, which also helped establish its identity going forward. What made the SUB appealing was its distinctive case design, practical dive bezel, and bright orange dial. This clearly showed from the get-go that vibrant dials were always part of DOXA’s SUB collection, giving these purpose-built timepieces plenty of personality.
This latest SUB 200T carries the same design approach, combining the recognisable DOXA DNA with a colour that is stunning in pictures and no doubt eye-catching in person! Created in collaboration with Florida-based retailer Exquisite Timepieces, the SUB 200T Afterglow takes inspiration from the sunsets of Naples. More specifically, however, it references the moment after the sun disappears below the horizon, when pink, violet, and magenta spread across the sky!
Classic DOXA Design With a Sunset-Inspired Twist
The Afterglow retains the architecture of the SUB 200T collection, with the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm in diameter and only 10.7mm thick. It also has a very short lug-to-lug distance of just 41.5mm, meaning the overall footprint of the timepiece feels compact despite the case’s cushion-shaped design.
The top surface of the case features a brushed finish, while the case middle has a mirror-like polish, giving the case a functional yet luxurious appearance on the wrist. This mixed finishing also carries onto the seven-link stainless steel bracelet, with brushed outer links and five mirror-polished inner links. It gives the timepiece an overall sense of refinement, with the contrasting surfaces adding character as they catch the light from different angles.
The silver-toned stainless steel bezel features two different scales. Firstly, the inner ring showcases the minute markings, while the polished outer ring displays the depth markings, finished in a beautiful pink colour that matches the dial nicely. Together, these form DOXA’s signature no-decompression bezel, relating dive depth to no-stop time limits.
The dial also retains the familiar SUB 200T layout, with its quadrant-style arrangement and the brand name positioned around 10 o’clock, while the model name is shown opposite at 4 o’clock. One of the defining features of DOXA’s dials is the segmented baton hour markers. Each marker is made up of three parallel white bars, with an elongated line extending from the middle bar. The indices are presented in white, and while they don’t create a stark contrast against the dial background, they still stand out nicely and complement the overall pink tones.
The pink sunray dial is, of course, the main highlight of this collaboration with Exquisite Timepieces. There are already quite a few vibrant colours in the SUB 200T collection, ranging from Sea Emerald to yellow, orange, and aquamarine, but none quite like this beautiful pink “Afterglow”. As the dial features a sunburst effect, the pink tones shift from softer shades to a brighter, more saturated pink depending on the lighting angle.
Swiss Automatic Mechanics Behind the Afterglow
The SUB 200T Afterglow houses the Swiss automatic Sellita SW200-1 in élaboré grade. The movement operates at 4Hz (28,800VpH), while delivering a 38-hour power reserve. If I were to have any reservations about this timepiece, it would be that the power reserve sits on the lower end by modern watchmaking standards.
The timepiece features a closed caseback, which suits its character as a dedicated dive watch. However, that doesn’t mean it’s without decoration! DOXA has used the caseback to display original artwork that connects this special “Afterglow” edition back to the Naples coastline. Then we also have the dedicated limited-edition engravings, which help further distinguish it from the standard SUB 200T models.
Initial Thoughts
What I particularly like about this SUB 200T Afterglow model is that the colour has a meaningful connection to the people behind the collaboration. A sunset-inspired pink dial feels particularly suited to a watch associated with the water and coastline. The sunray-brushed finish further adds visual appeal, giving the beautiful pink dial colour variation rather than a flat appearance. And then we have the same pink tones extended to the bezel, which makes this DOXA SUB 200T Afterglow feel like a well-considered design.
Beyond the colour, the compact proportions of this diver add to the appeal of the SUB 200T. The 39mm diameter and short lug-to-lug distance make this a great choice for those who prefer a smaller dive watch on the wrist. The 200m water resistance and bracelet extension give the SUB 200T Afterglow practical functionality beyond the stunning pink dial. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide, the DOXA SUB 200T Afterglow is a great reminder that colourful dials can give an already established collection a new identity, especially when there is a story behind it!
DOXA SUB 200T Afterglow Exquisite Timepieces Edition
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | SUB 200T Afterglow |
| Dimensions | 39mm case diameter x 10.7mm thickness; 41.5mm lug-to-lug |
| Case | 316L stainless steel with a unidirectional rotating bezel featuring black elapsed-time and pink no-decompression depth markings |
| Dial | Pink sunray-finished dial with white segmented hour markers, luminous hands and a date window at 3 o’clock |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Closed caseback with original artwork, limited-edition engravings and individual numbering |
| Movement | Swiss automatic Sellita SW200-1, élaboré grade, with central hours, minutes, seconds and date |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 200m / 20 bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet with brushed outer links, polished inner links, folding clasp and wetsuit extension |