Hublot pays tribute to the watch that started it all in 1980 with the new Classic Fusion Tributo in either White or Yellow Gold.
The year was 1980, and a man named Carlo Crocco unveiled a new watch at that year’s Basel Fair. Under the brand name MDM Genève, the watch was called Hublot, as it was designed to look like a porthole from a boat, with Hublot being the French word for porthole.
Round and minimalistic, with twelve screws that substituted as the indices, the black dial was kept clean apart from the date window at 3 o’clock and the MDM Genève and Hublot names. This watch made quite a few waves in the watch world, as for the first time, there was a rubber strap on a gold watch.
Now, 46 years later, Hublot has unveiled a fitting tribute to the original Hublot and Carlo Crocco with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo, available in two models: one in 18k white gold with a black onyx dial, and one in 18k yellow gold with a matte black dial.
1980s Retro Brought Back To Life
Looking at the new models, you can see that Hublot hasn’t strayed too far from the original design, in fact it has made every effort to keep the watch as close to the original as possible, albeit a little modernised. The case has grown slightly from 36mm to 38mm, but at 9.5mm thick, it remains relatively slim, with the same rounded shape and exposed screws around the bezel. These screws still serve as the hour markers, keeping the dial free of any additional indices, while the date window remains at 3 o’clock.
Each of the new models are made from either 18k yellow or white gold, with a combination of polished and satin finishes. Both models also come with a black lined rubber strap, which pays homage to Crocco’s original idea. We had a sneak peek at the new watch in Geneva last month, and talking to the Hublot team in Switzerland, the designers put a lot of effort into translating Carlo Crocco’s original idea into a watch for today.
There are a few differences between the two models, though. The yellow gold version is the closest to the original, with a matte black lacquered dial that has a subtle charcoal effect. It also features the MDM signature at 6 o’clock, printed in gold, which is a nice detail to see on a watch that pays tribute to Crocco and the early days of the brand.
The white gold version varies its approach a little, with a polished black onyx dial and black-plated titanium screws around the bezel. It has a more understated look compared with the yellow gold model, although both watches share the same case dimensions and overall design.
The movement also follows the same idea, with the yellow gold version featuring a 22k yellow gold oscillating weight, while the white gold model uses black tungsten. More on that shortly.
As mentioned, the new models carry the MDM name. Not only is it the brand name originally used, the MDM name also has a personal connection to Crocco, as well. It refers to the Main Dans la Main Foundation, which he established in 1998 to support humanitarian and educational projects for vulnerable children and communities in need. As such, as part of the launch, Hublot will donate CHF 100,000 to the foundation.
A Better Movement
One of the biggest changes from the original sits inside the case. The 1980 Hublot was a quartz watch, as was the trend at the time, whereas the new Classic Fusion Tributo is powered by Hublot’s HUB1711 Manufacture movement. Based on the Zenith Elite, it is modified to run at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH and offers a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. It is also thin, which allows Hublot to keep the watches under 10mm.
You can see the movement through the sapphire case back, including the open-worked oscillating weight shaped like Hublot’s ‘H’ logo. It’s not quartz, but given how much the brand’s watchmaking has developed over the past 46 years, it makes sense that the new models would reflect what Hublot is producing today.
While the HUB1711 isn’t a fully in-house developed calibre like the Unico HUB1280 or the Meca-10, it is yet another step towards Hublot producing most of its movements, which will be even closer with the opening of the third building at the Hublot Manufacture in Nyon later this year/early next year. According to CEO Julien Tornare, when we spoke to him in April, it will be a massive step forward for the brand and will see it ramp up its movement production to accommodate more in-house capabilities across more models.
Initial Thoughts
Funnily enough, I wrote about heritage in watchmaking recently and cited Hublot as one example where it doesn’t have a lot of heritage to draw from, which can be both good and bad. Well, I guess the brand has proven it can draw upon history and heritage with less than 50 years of it.
What I think is great about this release is just that. Hublot is returning to its roots and bringing back the watch that started it all, way back in 1980. And the brand has done a good job too, choosing to have two models in precious metals, but each with its own personality.
For those purists, the 18k yellow gold will give you a sense of nostalgia, and for those who want a little bit more of a contemporary version, the 18k white gold with the black onyx dial and black-plated titanium screws is more understated, yet still stays true to the original’s DNA.
Having given these a small try back in September, the 38mm case wears fairly true to size. It is slim, and the rubber strap takes me back to those Hublots of the early to mid-2000s. So, these are very much a walk down memory lane for those old enough to recall a Hublot from 20-something years ago, when the brand had only just graduated high school and was barely out of its teens.
With both watches under A$50,000, at a time when most other gold watches are well above that mark, these provide a compelling argument for slightly nostalgic collectors wanting to add something with a little nuance to their collections.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| References | 262.VX.1130.RX.MDM (Yellow Gold) / 262.WX.6870.RX.MDM (White Gold) |
| Dimensions | 38 mm diameter, 9.5 mm thick |
| Case | Polished and brushed 18k yellow gold or white gold |
| Dial | Matte black lacquered dial (Yellow Gold) / Black onyx dial (White Gold) |
| Crystal | Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment |
| Caseback | Sapphire caseback with satin-finished 18k yellow or white gold |
| Water Resistance | 100M / 10 BAR |
| Movement | HUB1711 Manufacture self-winding calibre, beating at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH |
| Functions | Seconds, Minutes, Hours, Date |
| Power Reserve | 50 Hours |
| Strap | Black lined rubber with 18k yellow or white gold & black plated steel & titanium folding clasp |