Haute horlogerie legend Armin Strom has just released the greatest watch in the world. Well, that’s subjective… but it’s definitely a Tribute!
Armin Strom is a difficult brand to pin down, and not necessarily because of its most complicated creations. Even at its simplest, the independent watchmaker has a knack for blurring the boundaries between form and function, treating mechanical engineering as an essential part of a watch’s identity rather than something to be concealed beneath the dial. Its watches are simultaneously instruments of timekeeping, exercises in architecture, and expressions of mechanical artistry, making them difficult to categorise within the traditional language of luxury watchmaking.
The Tribute collection offers a particularly compelling expression of this philosophy. While much of contemporary haute horlogerie leans into mechanical spectacle, and the quiet-luxury movement favours restraint and discretion, the Tribute holds an interesting middle ground between the two. This year, they’ve elected to expand the collection with a new, limited edition run that promises to be the most traditionally informed expression of the Tribute to date.
A Golden Tribute
The Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750 is the latest addition to Armin Strom’s accessibly unconventional collection. Perhaps the least disruptive aspect of the watch is its case dimensions, measuring 38mm across, 44.35mm lug-to-lug, and 9.38mm thick. A dress-oriented piece with 50 metres of water resistance, it’s a versatile offering whose wrist presence is bolstered by the density of its 18k rose gold construction. While it might seem like a standard case at first glance, signs of peculiarity are already beginning to emerge.
Perhaps the most obvious is the crown, positioned at roughly 1:30 on a conventional dial. Yet, it doesn’t feel as though it’s been moved without reason. Displaced crowns often improve ergonomics by reducing obstruction as the wrist bends. Furthering the delightful oddness of the case are its traditionally inspired angular lugs. Resembling a neo-futuristic take on the wire lugs seen in the early 20th century, they further contribute to the watch’s atemporal appeal.
Finally, the case’s finishing sandwich, comprising polished upper and lower pieces with brushing in the middle, employs vertical brushing rather than the more conventional horizontal arrangement. Reminiscent of the coin-edge mid-case finishes seen on watches from the likes of Breguet, it again ensures that the Tribute³ Au750 can’t be pinned down to any singular source of inspiration.
Offsetting the warmth of the rose gold is a grey leather strap, comfortably secured by an 18k rose gold pin buckle. Overall, the watch does an excellent job of establishing its synthesis early on, making it the perfect frame for the artistry that lies within.
Simplicity Is Relative
In terms of design, the new watch successfully merges its extravagant Midas touch with the fine craftsmanship for which the brand is often celebrated. For starters, the rose gold dial matches the material used for the case. Gold-on-gold can be difficult to pull off without looking like an absolute sleaze, or Tony Soprano. Yet, the Tribute³ Au750 feels aesthetically open and accessible, with very little trace of pompousness.
That being said, Armin Strom has still managed to finish the watch to an almost faultless degree. From the outset, the finishing differs considerably from what we’ve seen on previous Tribute models. Grain d’orge guilloché dominates the rose gold dial, interspersed with exposed screws that hold the entire display in place.
Offset towards the upper-left portion of the watch is the displaced dial, displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds through a set of dark grey apple hands. A raised chapter ring holds Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, while the inner portion of the dial contains yet another brilliant form of guilloché, this time arranged in a sunburst pattern.
Despite the monochromatic gold colour scheme, the interplay between these finishes gives the watch a sense of contrast and clarity that might otherwise be absent. But the real centrepiece of the show, or more accurately, the off-centre, is the exposed barrel and bridge. In open defiance of the dial’s refined artistry, this golden arrangement is aggressively technical. Engraved atop the barrel is a sans-serif description of what the watch does and how long it will last.
Formed Function
The barrel and bridge naturally draw attention to the movement visible through the exhibition caseback. As the engraving implies, the Cal. AMW21 is a manually wound movement with a total power reserve of 100 hours. What immediately piqued my interest was its unusual beat rate of 3.5Hz, or 25,200VpH. I’ve only encountered this rate at one other brand, the mid-market kings at Longines, so I wonder what compelled Armin Strom to opt for the same non-standard frequency.
Displaying even greater technical expertise, the movement reverses the traditional mainspring barrel arrangement during winding. In a conventional barrel, a central arbor acts as the static shaft around which the mainspring is wound. In Armin Strom’s motor barrel, however, the central arbour rotates to wind the mainspring, while the housing drives the gear train as the spring unwinds. The result is reduced friction and a more efficient transmission of energy, contributing to the movement’s impressive 100-hour power reserve.
In any case, the Cal. AMW21 serves as both the beating heart of the Tribute³ Au750 and a direct continuation of its aesthetic. Remember, for Armin Strom, form and function are one, so it should come as no surprise that the movement’s components are finished in the same gold. One final guilloché pattern, the classic Clous de Paris, can be seen on the German-style three-quarter plate, while an exposed finger bridge in rose gold showcases the escapement within the remaining open space.
Initial Thoughts
Armin Strom is always fun, but a challenge to write about from a personal perspective. As a watch nerd, you become accustomed to seeing watches follow certain themes. Simple watches tend to be just that, while mechanically complex timepieces often wear their intricacies on their sleeves.
But Armin Strom flips that perception on its axis. Somehow, the brand always finds a way to do both at once. As a result, many of its watches are winding, ticking oxymorons, with highly refined aesthetics and mechanics working in a state of unique harmonic dissonance. Yet that’s precisely where their appeal lies.
I may never understand the method behind the madness of the Tribute³ Au750, but even at the limits of my understanding, I can recognise just how good a watch it is. Whether it’s the contemporary timelessness of the design or the impossibly intricate mechanics, it’s bound to find admirers among haute horlogerie enthusiasts the world over.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | RG26-TRI.AU |
| Dimensions | 38mm case diameter x 44.35mm lug-to-lug x 9.38mm thickness |
| Case | 18k rose gold |
| Dial | Rose gold sunburst & barleycorn guilloché with grey frosted accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Manual wind Cal. AMW21 |
| Power Reserve | 100h |
| Beat Rate | 3.5Hz / 25,200VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Interchangeable grey leather strap with 18k rose gold pin buckle |