Czapek takes you through the fantastical world of Boris Vian with a new Promenade model named directly after his seminal work.
It takes a lot to reimagine a storied watch brand. Just look at the resurrections of Universal Genève and Carl Suchy & Söhne as prime examples. Not only do you have to carefully consider how and which heritage designs return, but to add to the legacy means continuing from exactly where the old brand left off.
But what if you didn’t have that much to go on? That’s the task Xavier de Roquemaurel and his team were faced with when it came to Czapek. While some designs were preserved, the brand would disappear completely from historical records around 1871. So where do you go from there? In Czapek’s case, the only direction was up.
Using the traditional method of établissage, where individual artisans contribute to the whole watch under the établisseur (in this case, Czapek), the brand has become known for its highly contemporary approach to mechanics and design. Part of that journey is the Promenade collection, a minimalist dress watch that has become such a spectacular free-for-all in artistic expression. We’ve seen raindrops, diamond drops, and even a metallised translucent sapphire rendition. Yet, this new reference promises to make things more surreal than ever.
Jazzed Up
Meet the highly limited Czapek Promenade L’Écume des Jours, a version of the timepiece that takes inspiration from the story of the same name. But if you’re not familiar with the Promenade, or Czapek in general, allow me to give you the standard rundown. The watch hits the perfect universal sweet spot, measuring 38mm in case diameter, 42mm lug-to-lug, and 10.8mm thick. In stainless steel, nary a surface of the watch hasn’t been polished.
However, it still has a distinctly sporty flair about it. The case flanks, though appearing somewhat bulbous from the top, have been hollowed out. The cavities have also been sandblasted, contrasting with the polish seen everywhere else. Small crown guards come out of the hollowed flanks at three o’clock to meet the flat, fluted crown. A subtle step between the bezel and case is also apparent, lending the watch another subtle hint of dimensionality.
Flower Power
But the frame of the watch simply belies the true artistry of the dial, which has a medley of incredible details that make the Promenade L’Écume des Jours such a unique design. We’ll start with the backdrop, which may already look familiar to fans of the brand. Returning to the watch is the Goutte d’Eau, or “drop of water”, finish, mimicking the ripples of a water droplet in a pond. Set in blue grand feu enamel, the practice of établissage shows itself here thanks to the contributions of enamel dial maker Donzé Cadrans.
The only interruptions to the enamel finish are the skeletonised hands and Czapek typeface. But I cannot ignore it any longer; you may have already noticed the minute track and small seconds subdial looking a little bit unusual. That’s because both pay homage to the Promenade L’Écume des Jours’ namesake: the eponymous novel created by the famous French polymath Boris Vian. An actor, journalist, engineer, multi-instrumentalist, and poet among many other professions, Vian’s greatest legacy lay in his surrealist novel L’Écume des Jours, French for Froth on the Daydream.
The new Promenade actually comes complete with one of three strap options of the user’s choosing. The one most commonly photographed is the blue leather strap matching the dial, while another colour option exists in pink. If neither are to your preference, though, Czapek has also offered a steel Milanese mesh bracelet, which massively changes up the look of the watch. Complete with 50m of water resistance, it’s a watch that is undoubtedly dressy by nature, but can handle the rigours of everyday life.
On the Promenade’s dial, two of the book’s major literary devices take prominence. First is the piano-key minute track, made in collaboration with MD’Art. Set slightly above the Goutte d’Eau dial, the keyboard is finished in mother-of-pearl. This makes reference to the Pianocktail, a device in the novel which mixes drinks based on the notes, chords and melodies played. Duke Ellington is referenced quite a lot in the novel, which itself is a nod to Vian’s impact on the French jazz scene as the liaison to Ellington, Hoagy Carmichael, and Miles Davis.
Meanwhile, a water lily replaces the small seconds subdial, set in jade stone and finished with hand painting. Now, the significance of this, I can’t spoil. You’re just going to have to read the book for yourself. Or just Google it, like I did to present its significance to you. But where’s the fun in that?
Abridged
In any case, the surrealist artistry does not impede on the watch’s horological abilities. And if you know me, then you know Czapek’s catalogue has one of my favourite movements of all time in this watch. Through the open caseback, you can see the Cal. SXH5.1, an automatic micro-rotor movement that operates at 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 60-hour power reserve. Though it’s hardly the most complicated in terms of functions, housing only a small seconds subdial, I’d be surprised if you didn’t fall in love with the sheer beauty of this movement.
Interestingly, the movement is perhaps the only element of the watch not to rely on établissage, as the Cal. SXH5 series marked the first time Czapek did not rely on another manufacturer to create it. There’s nothing inherently bad with what they were doing before, as many of their movements were first done in collaboration with Chronode, but it does show how serious the brand remains about the most important part of watchmaking.
Initial Thoughts
The new Promenade L’Écume des Jours by Czapek isn’t just another novel (get it?) dial change. It’s one that pays tribute to one of the most unique minds in history. Given Boris Vian’s many vocations, the task of distilling his intellect and zest for creativity may have been an impossible task for any other brand. Yet, Czapek has managed to do so, with a little help from its surrounding artisans.
If anything, that just goes to show how diverse and exceptional Vian’s brief life was, as it required an entire établissage to translate his imagination to a wristwatch. In all, it’s a very niche tribute to one of the most interesting men who has perhaps ever lived, and may ever live. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to go buy that book…
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 8814 |
| Dimensions | 38mm case diameter x 42mm lug-to-lug x 10.8mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel |
| Dial | Grand Feu Goutte d’Eau enamel blue with mother-of-pearl piano indexes & water lily subdial with jade & hand painting |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic micro-rotor Cal. SXH5.1 with small seconds complication |
| Power Reserve | 60h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Choice of steel Milanese mesh bracelet or blue / pink leather strap with steel pin buckle |