Lebois & Co. celebrates Swiss watchmaking alongside their new Dutch heritage, with a duo of dials that are equally iconic and mouth-watering.
The watch world is becoming more geographically diverse than ever. While the powerhouses of the industry, Japan, Switzerland and Germany, remain firmly in place, other countries are quickly catching up both horologically and reputationally.
Take The Netherlands, for example. Several brands from the region have begun proving themselves on the world stage. Combining an exceptional level of mechanical know-how with a refreshing take on watch design, rising stars like Grönefeld, Holthinrichs and De Rijke & Co. have established a firm foothold for the Dutch. Among these top players is LeBois & Co., a once Franco-Swiss, now Dutch brand.
In 2014, it was resurrected by native Tom van Wijlick with the blessing of the brand’s original founders, the Dodane family. Merging the brand that once was, with the brand that now is, might sound like a significant challenge.
But for over a decade LeBois & Co. has made it look easy, championing heritage-inspired designs powered by high-quality modern movements. However, this new double release might be the best example yet of what happens when two worlds collide. Celebrating their roots in Switzerland and The Netherlands, the brand has launched a pair of new Heritage Atelier models that draw on the very best of both regions, though perhaps not in the way you might have expected.
Dress To Impress
The new LeBois & Co. Heritage Atelier Clous de Paris and Stroopwafel models come in a universally wearable stainless steel case. Both measure 38.7mm in diameter, 45.5mm lug-to-lug and 10.5mm thick.
It’s about what you’d expect for a dress-oriented watch such as the Heritage, which prides itself on expressing the very best of old-world watch design. While the ‘Atelier’ designation signifies the special nature of both watches, the Heritage collection’s signature lines remain.
The cases combine polished accents with brushed surfaces, topped off with a double-domed sapphire crystal. Altogether, it nails the classic look and feel of the golden-age dress watch in a modern size.
Both Heritage Atelier watches come supplied on a grey leather strap with a steel pin buckle. Offsetting the warmer tones of the dials, it’s a comfortable choice, but one that can be swapped out thanks to an in-built interchangeable system. Naturally, the dress watch offers only 50 metres of water resistance, but that’s more than enough for it to serve as a reliable daily wearer.
Cookie Monster
While it is a highly wearable case, it simply acts as a frame for the LeBois & Co. Heritage Atelier’s dial designs. Let’s start with the commonalities, most notably the silver accents. Evident on the printed railroad minute track, recessed small seconds register, leaf hands and Breguet-style numerals, they boldly stand out amidst the warmth of each dial.
How warm that dial is, however, depends entirely on which one you pick. As I said, both watches are indicative of the brand’s roots in Switzerland and The Netherlands. Each represents an iconic part of its respective country’s culture thanks to the assistance of Swiss-based dial manufacturer GT Cadrans.
The first model, celebrating Switzerland, sports a Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern. CNC-machined rather than guilloché cut, it still provides an exceptional level of light play and texture to the Heritage Atelier. Complete with a rose gold-tone galvanic treatment, it commemorates one of the most iconic dial finishes in Swiss watchmaking.
But while it is certainly a finely crafted dial, I suspect that’s not what you’re here for. Given the relative youth of Dutch watch culture, LeBois & Co. decided to present its Dutchness in a completely different way. Instead of Clous de Paris, the second model uses the brand’s own custom waffle dial, appropriately named ‘Stroopwafel’ after the iconic Dutch sweet. As opposed to the former’s CNC machining, the Stroopwafel texture was laser-engraved into the dial with a caramel-toned galvanic finish.
Sure, the inspiration might be whimsical, but the result is as serious as it gets, offering a unique level of detail unavailable elsewhere. Topped off with tone-matched small seconds hands, each dial is symbolic of opposite ends of watchmaking: the beauty of the past and the tasteful prospects of the future.
Sweet Escape(ment)
For as intricately detailed as the watch is, though, LeBois & Co. still ensures that its mechanics are up to scratch. Turning the watch around reveals the open caseback, which in turn exposes the automatic Calibre LC-350. A heavily modified rendition of the popular Sellita SW360-1, it beats at the luxury-standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a respectable 56-hour power reserve. Operating just the small seconds complication, it’s not an especially complex or intricately finished movement by any means. What it is, however, is reliable and accurate.
The Cal. LC-350 is not only easily repairable thanks to its Sellita architecture, but the watch is also COSC Chronometer certified. Guaranteeing an accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day, it demonstrates the direction in which the Dutch brand wishes to take its watchmaking. Not only do they want to celebrate old-world design, they want to make watches just like they used to, with a bit of modern help, of course.
Initial Thoughts
As the debut entries in LeBois & Co.’s new Heritage Atelier line, there is a certain level of pressure that these two watches must shoulder. Running as pre-order special editions until 10 August, their main objective is to promote the brand’s unique approach to watchmaking while proving that the Dutch can compete in the increasingly crowded microbrand space.
Judging by the reactions I’ve seen online, I think it’s safe to say they’ve succeeded and then some. The Stroopwafel dial might be one of my favourite dial textures of the year. Not just because stroopwafels are awesome (I developed an addiction to them in The Netherlands), but because it truly brings something unique to the table in the most Dutch way imaginable. So, if your mouth is watering as much as your wrist feels light, I’d seriously consider taking a look at one, or both, of these incredible new timepieces.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 641.548 (Clous de Paris) 641.550 (Stroopwafel) |
| Dimensions | 38.7mm case diameter x 45.5mm lug-to-lug x 10.5mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel |
| Dial | Rose gold Clous de Paris CNC pattern with silver accents Caramel with Stroopwafel texturing with silver accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. LC-350 with COSC Chronometer certification & small seconds complication |
| Power Reserve | 56h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Interchangeable grey leather strap with steel pin buckle |