Inspired by their iconic belts, Hermès have refined the Cape Cod collection with a sporty-chic titanium case and four strap options.
In the modern day, the fashion and watch industries couldn’t possibly be more intertwined. Countless fashion powerhouses have made the jump to watchmaking with varying degrees of success, but only a select few have managed to establish themselves as unique players in the horological world.
Among all the big names, however, only two are often cited as the watch industry’s greatest cross-industry imports. One is Chanel, and the other is Hermès.
So how does a brand typically associated with saddlery and leather goods translate its design language to watches? Trick question: it didn’t… at first. Then came the Cape Cod collection in the late ’90s, marking a major contemporary shift in Hermès’ horological aesthetic. This year, the Parisian powerhouse has returned to the design, creating a new, modern, and masculine line that showcases its watchmaking expertise alongside the brand’s illustrious history.
Anchors Away
The silhouette of the Hermès Cape Cod collection dates back to 1998, when the brand’s star designer, Henri d’Origny, was asked to create a new square watch. Inspired by Robert Dumas’ Chaîne d’Ancre motif from 1938, he adapted the iconic shape into the shape you see here.
Measuring 33mm in case diameter, 41mm lug-to-lug, and just 10.36mm thick, the new Cape Cod line is designed to wear low and light on the wrist. The cut-out portions of the lugs help enhance breathability, while the full-titanium construction gives these Cape Cod watches exceptional lightness and strength. The absence of polishing is also immediately apparent, with micro-blasted case flanks and brushed upper surfaces lending a more industrial look to the watch.
The Cape Cod was most famously paired with leather straps, thanks in large part to the intervention of Martin Margiela during his tenure at Hermès. However, no leather strap will be found here. Leaning further into the sportier character established by the H08, Hermès presents the Cape Cod on one of four interchangeable rubber straps.
The signature Orange and classic Black return, while the brand’s Jaune de Naples yellow and Bleu Abysse blue round out the roster. Complete with 100m of water resistance, these Cape Cod models occupy the space between the older, dressier references and the flagship H08 line-up.
Chain Reaction
The design of the new Cape Cod line also reflects the sportier, industrial attitude first introduced with the H08. The dial layout remains largely unchanged, reintroducing the lumed stick hands and Arabic numerals.
The clean, stylised numerals are intrinsic to d’Origny’s original design, maintaining a delicate balance between classic elegance and contemporary styling. Simply put, it wouldn’t feel like a Cape Cod without them.
In contrast, the dial itself has been completely refinished. The central section does away with the stamped motif in favour of a micro-blasted finish, bordered on all sides by vertical brushing. It echoes a steadily growing trend in the watch world, where the clean, linear texture of vertical brushing creates a stronger sense of character than the traditional sunray finish.
We’ve seen it succeed on the Tudor Monarch and Cartier Tank Américaine, and it works just as well here. Finished with an orange seconds hand and a black date window, the collection further capitalises on its delightfully eclectic character.
Vouching For Vaucher
Of all the features that have changed in the Hermès Cape Cod line, the movement remains the same. This might seem like a missed opportunity, but as the saying goes, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” That certainly applies when looking through the open caseback, where the Cal. H1912 powers the entire operation.
Beating at the luxury-standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a respectable 45-hour power reserve, the automatic movement introduced in 2012 has become one of the brand’s longest-running staples. Personally, I would’ve liked to see an increased power reserve, but there’s no question the craftsmanship remains as solid as ever regardless.
The Cal. H1912 is produced for Hermès by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, whose prestigious client list includes Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. With Hermès owning a 25% minority stake in the manufacture, it’s safe to say the brand has had a significant hand in the movement’s development and testing to ensure it meets its exacting standards.
Initial Thoughts
There’s usually only one reason people walk through Hermès’ doors. Knowing this, the brand has made a concerted effort to expand into more contemporary designs that showcase its broader creative strengths. That’s especially true in the watch division, where collections like the H08 and Cape Cod make compelling horological statements.
More than just another avenue to a Birkin, this new Cape Cod line is an incredibly significant watch, both for the brand and for the wider industry. Blending Hermès’ runway heritage with genuine horological credibility, it distinguishes itself as a refreshing contemporary option in what can often become an echo chamber of the same ideas. Who would have thought that a brand so ubiquitous in popular culture could still create offerings capable of surprising you?
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | W408277WW00 (Orange) W408276WW00 (Jaune de Naples Yellow) W408275WW00 (Bleu Abysse Blue) W408196WW00 (Black) |
| Dimensions | 33mm case diameter x 41mm lug-to-lug x 10.36mm thickness |
| Case | Titanium |
| Dial | Sand-blasted & vertically brushed black with orange accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. H1912 with date complication |
| Power Reserve | 45h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100m / 10bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Interchangeable orange / yellow / blue / black rubber straps with titanium folding clasp & steel pin buckle |