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The short answer: Yes! The Cartier Tank Américaine is a standout watch that looks and feels a lot more versatile than it lets on. Let’s find out why!

I think that, since I began working at WatchAdvice, my opinion on Cartier has changed the least. I’d already heard so much about it from every corner of culture; rap songs and rom-coms sing equal praise of the Parisian powerhouse. So, when this opportunity came along, it simply allowed me to get closer to a brand I had already learned to appreciate.

With closeness, though, comes closer scrutiny. Cartier bears the weight of a rich legacy on its shoulders, and even the smallest deviation can have Cartier fans questioning their loyalty. Its model lines, in both jewellery and watchmaking, have become so iconic that remixing them is a massive risk. Getting it wrong, depending on who you ask, is intolerable.

These are the stakes Cartier faces with the Tank Américaine. How could they possibly change the formula of such a universally popular watch collection while preserving the original DNA? That’s what I aimed to find out when I took the Tank Américaine for a spin some time ago…

First Impressions

As ubiquitous as the Cartier Tank is in watch culture, you may be surprised (or not, if you know me well) to find that it’s not my cup of tea. While I tend to shy away from icons in a somewhat hipster-esque desire to be different, I’ve always appreciated it when brands remix a winning recipe.

The Tank Américaine is exemplary of this. Launched in 1989, it served as a modern evolution of the already remixed Tank Cintrée. Both models, with their curved cases, have always felt more versatile than the standard issue.

That’s largely why I decided to wear streetwear in this review. Not only did I wear a suit in my last Cartier review, a Santos-Dumont, but there’s also been a massive uptick in interest in Cartier among my generation.

Sure, we may not be able to own a home, but we take solace that luxury products such as these remain relatively in reach. Thus, it’s become the go-to brand for understated, casual elegance. As dressy as this watch may seem on paper, it doesn’t look out of place with a T-shirt, shorts, and sneakers. Cartiers have always been historically versatile, though, so it’s hardly a unique line of thought.

The Design

The Tank Américaine’s design feels as timeless as its contemporaries, yet somehow far bolder. Beginning with the dial, it is coloured silver with a vertically brushed finish throughout. I like it; we’ve already seen other brands like Omega and Tudor create similarly unique aesthetics. Vertical brushing is far more intriguing to my eye than the regular sunburst finish.

Adding to the complexity, the dial is slightly convex, bulging outward to match the curvature of the case. Between the finishing and the shape, it allows for a unique play of light, though it’s far harder to photograph than most watches.

A full set of printed Roman numerals stretches across the dial, paired with an equally elongated railway minute track. While it uses Cartier’s signature Art Deco aesthetic in a distinctive way, readability suffers slightly in the first and third quarters.

The minute markers at three and nine o’clock feel compressed, an issue most rectangular watches tend to face. Any adjustment, though, would require rebalancing the proportions, especially the heat-blued sword hands, which are sized to precisely reach the minute track from any position.

Moving outwards, the Tank Américaine is equipped with a sapphire crystal that flows seamlessly in parallel with the dial. This sense of continuity extends to the stainless steel case, giving the watch its signature shape. The finishing is varied. In lieu of a bezel, the Tank Américaine is flanked by two brancards (‘stretchers’), both of which are high-polished to help frame the dial.

They fall gracefully to either side, smoothly transitioning into the brushed case flanks. Visible along the flanks are the threaded screws holding the case together, with three o’clock accompanied by the crown. Instead of the classic rounded blue cabochon, Cartier has opted for the same octagonal crown and faceted jewel seen on Santos de Cartier models.

Turning the watch around, however, is somewhat unremarkable. The caseback is vertically brushed and fairly standard, with the typical engravings you’d expect. The concept of an open caseback is something Cartier often misses the mark on. Sure, on models like the Santos it’s more justifiable, as they’re meant to be more versatile, practical timepieces.

Yet there are watches out there that manage to be versatile, practical, and dressy all at once, with an open caseback to boot. It would drive the price up slightly, but the level of craftsmanship we’ve seen at the Cartier manufacture suggests they would love the opportunity to showcase their skills more.

Still, the Tank Américaine is a thoroughly contemporary expression of the Tank identity. Paired with a blue alligator leather strap and steel pin buckle, it exudes classic Cartier attitude despite belonging to the more modern side of the collection.

How It Wears

On paper, the Cartier Tank Américaine sounds diminutive. Sized at 24.4mm in case width, with a 44.4mm lug-to-lug and an 8.54mm thickness, you’d be right to wonder why Cartier considers this their “Large” size. However, it’s not quite as small as it sounds. Non-round watches, especially square and rectangular designs, often wear far larger than their dimensions would suggest.

Personally, I never found myself fully on board with rectangular watches. I never bonded with the original Tank, and while the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic was fun to wear, it never quite felt like a daily driver. But after reviewing the latter, it only felt right to move onto the similarly shaped Tank Américaine. Safe to say, it definitely changed my mind.

A large part of that comes down to the Tank Américaine’s distinctive profile. The convex case allows the watch to mould seamlessly to the wrist, making it wear far more comfortably than I anticipated.

The slimness of the case also pays dividends, keeping a low and unobtrusive presence throughout my time with it. Though the Tank Américaine and Cintrée models were originally intended to appeal to a more masculine audience, I believe this watch is wearable for just about anyone.

Overall, the Tank Américaine was an incredibly easy wear with very few drawbacks. In fact, most of those drawbacks stem from its size.

The octagonal crown, for example, gives the watch a bolder appearance within the Tank line-up, but perhaps at the expense of usability. The shaped crown found on the standard Tank models is arguably better suited to such compact dimensions.

Where it improves, at least in my opinion, is with the use of a deployant clasp on the alligator strap. I once criticised the Santos-Dumont’s use of a fiddly pin buckle instead of something more secure or practical, so I’m glad to see that feature included on the Tank Américaine.

It’s not without its own faults, though, as the deployant clasp causes the strap to fold internally, creating a slight bulge underneath the wrist. Over time, this can increase wear across the leather strap itself, whereas a pin buckle tends to localise wear to the preferred hole. I suppose neither solution is perfect, but the deployant clasp has always felt more secure to me.

Regardless, the strap itself is very comfortable to wear and easy to replace thanks to the quick-release spring bars fitted to each side. It also opens the door to a bit of customisation, which made me wonder how good the Tank Américaine would look on a mesh bracelet — or, better yet, an orange rubber strap. Though I don’t think Cartier purists, or even Cartier themselves, would be particularly eager to humour me on that one.

The Movement

Strangely enough, this exact reference of the Cartier Tank Américaine — Ref. CRWSTA0083 — doesn’t appear to be listed online in Australia. It’s a little odd, considering I’ve seen it in the Brisbane boutique, but it’s hardly an issue. Switch over to the American Cartier website and you’ll find it without much trouble.

In any case, the watch is powered by the in-house Cal. 1899 MC, an automatic movement introduced in 2019. You may have heard about it recently, as it also powers the small-sized models of the returning Cartier Roadster.

Beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 40-hour power reserve, it drives only the hour and minute hands within the Tank Américaine. As expected, the watch lacks a seconds hand, reinforcing its dressier character. I, for one, don’t mind, as the bolder styling makes it feel comfortable in almost any setting.

That said, much like the Santos-Dumont, this feels like a missed opportunity for a display caseback. Given the relatively small movement inside the case, it would be great to actually see it — and to visually confirm the watch is running without needing to hold it to your ear.

From the movement imagery I’ve seen, though, the calibre appears capable, if somewhat restrained in its finishing. When compared to Cartier’s ultra high-end models, such as those from the Maison des Métiers d’Art, the difference becomes quite apparent.

Final Thoughts

Knowing what I know now, the Tank Américaine may be among my favourite Cartier watches alongside the Santos-Dumont. Reviewer biases aside, I’ve always gravitated towards dressier watches with a slightly adaptable flair, and both are great examples of that. But at AU$10,800, it’s a big ask for a small watch. Size matters little in the face of form, function, and horological fame, though competitors still remain.

Like the Santos-Dumont, the Tank Américaine’s biggest competitors mostly come from within. Quartz versions of the Santos models offer the Cartier design language with a convenient movement, while the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA413 is a compelling alternative outside the rectangular box. In terms of versatility, mechanics, and subtlety, however, the Tank Américaine can do it all, and looks good doing it.

‘Iconic’ is one of those catch-all terms in the watch industry. There are plenty of watches that have earned their way into the horological hall of fame, but many more attempt to talk their way into it. It blurs the lines slightly, making it harder to distinguish what is truly iconic by definition and what is simply a product of marketing.

In the case of the Cartier Tank Américaine, it has certainly earned its reputation. While time and heritage have done it some favours, with the collection nearing its 40th anniversary, it’s also a competent and complete transformation of the beloved Tank.

The timelessness of the original can’t be discounted, sure, but the Tank Américaine by comparison feels well-adjusted to the dynamic modern watch industry. By association, that makes it better for watch lovers in my demographic.

Reference & Specifications

Feature	Specification
Reference	CRWSTA0083
Dimensions	24.4mm case diameter x 44.4mm lug-to-lug x 8.54mm thickness
Case	Stainless steel
Dial	Vertically brushed silver with Roman numerals and blue hands
Crystal	Sapphire
Caseback	Closed, engraved
Movement	Automatic Cal. 1899MC
Power Reserve	40h
Beat Rate	4Hz / 28,800VpH
Water Resistance	30m / 3bar
Strap/Bracelet	Interchangeable navy alligator strap with steel deployant clasp

Australian Retail Price: AU$10,800

Availability: Available now, at Cartier boutiques and authorised retailers. See Cartier.com for more information.

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