Hermès continues to innovate on their flagship H08 collection with new skeletonised references, pushing their abilities beyond the ‘fashion watch’ stereotype!
For all the clamorous voices in the contemporary watchmaking scene, Hermès is one no one ever expects. Despite being more recognisable on the runway than on the wrist, they’ve earned their stripes in the watch industry. Some may claim they bought their way into the horological world — a fair assumption, given their stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier — but their commitment to excellence in design and mechanics has proved they’re taking this avenue seriously.
Exemplary of this is the Hermès H08 collection, first introduced in 2021 to widespread acclaim. Bearing a dynamic, modern aesthetic, the H08 managed to do the near-impossible, translating Hermès’ DNA into a highly refined timepiece. It quickly became the flagship model for the Parisian powerhouse’s horology division, resulting in an array of experimental references across case materials and complications. For Watches & Wonders 2026, Hermès is no longer looking to add, but to subtract from the H08. That’s hardly a bad thing, however, as they now present the new H08 Squelette line.
Hip To Be Square
Available in two distinct dial variations across five references, the case profile of the H08 Squelette doesn’t change much. It remains sized at a 39mm ‘squircle’ case diameter, with a 42mm lug-to-lug and 11.69mm thickness. If you’ve never worn a square watch before, it’s worth keeping in mind that they wear far larger than round watches of the same on-paper dimensions. Fortunately, the H08 collection tends to sit flat and close to the wrist, allowing for broad wearability across a wide range of sizes.
Wearability is further enhanced by the H08 Squelette’s titanium case construction. With a brushed finish and coated in black DLC, the stealthy case offers an impressive level of scratch, shock, and corrosion resistance. Titanium is also far lighter than standard steel, keeping the visual wrist presence bold without feeling bulky.
The H08’s signature rubber straps return as well, and from my own frequent and often wishful visits to Hermès, I can attest to their comfort. Available in tan, green, or dark blue for the standard dial, and either black or colour-matched for the Bleu Zanzibar versions, the strap is secured by a black DLC titanium butterfly clasp for optimal adjustability.
The Modern Skeleton
While the H08’s case silhouette sees minimal change, the new dial layout is where it truly distinguishes itself. The dial has been almost entirely removed, leaving behind a minimal yet highly intentional framework. A square central minutes track echoes the geometry of the case, while the applied Arabic numerals are mounted on an outer ring, appearing to float above the movement.
Two dial colours are available for the H08 Squelette. The Bleu Zanzibar variant introduces vibrant light blue accents, while the standard version leans into a monochromatic palette, allowing the strap colour to take focus. An asymmetrical X-shaped bridge structure dominates the dial, adding further contrast and visual intrigue to the presentation.
An interesting and subtle detail is the use of clear rubies instead of the standard red. This allows the eye to focus more on the skeletonisation itself, rather than being drawn to flashes of colour from the jewels. One red ruby remains, however, within the balance wheel — a fitting location that highlights it as the ‘heart’ of the operation.
Powerhouse Meets Powerhouse
Speaking of the heart, Hermès has debuted a new movement exclusively for the H08 Squelette. The Calibre H1978S, an automatic movement, beats at a standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) and offers a 60-hour power reserve. Developed in conjunction with the Hermès co-owned Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the movement’s bridges are delicately crafted from titanium.
While difficult to execute, the use of titanium adds both durability and lightness to the watch, important qualities for a skeletonised movement. Given Vaucher’s reputation through its work with Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and TAG Heuer, among others, there’s little doubt the movement has been executed to a high standard.
Initial Thoughts
I once wrote about how so-called ‘fashion watch’ brands have lifted their game and deserve their flowers as such. I wanted to challenge the notion that any brand without a predominantly horological background was unable, or unwilling, to make a good watch. As the years have gone by, that misconception has largely faded.
But while that may satisfy the watch world, ‘good enough’ isn’t typically where Hermès stops. The H08 Squelette isn’t just proof that they’re taking watchmaking seriously, but a clear statement of intent as they take the next step forward. Ultimately, these new models add further depth to the H08 collection, evolving its contemporary aesthetic and cementing the Parisian brand’s place within the annals of watchmaking history.
References:
Standard: W408555WW00 (Tan Strap) / W408556WW00 (Green Strap) / W408557WW00 (Blue Strap)
Bleu Zanzibar: W408391WW00 (Black Strap) / W408393WW00 (Light Blue Strap)
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 39mm case diameter x 42mm lug-to-lug x 11.69mm thickness |
| Case | Black DLC titanium |
| Dial | Openworked skeleton with grey / light blue accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. H1978S |
| Power Reserve | 60h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100m / 10bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Standard: Tan / green / blue rubber strap with black DLC butterfly buckle clasp Bleu Zanzibar: Black / light blue rubber strap with black DLC butterfly buckle clasp |