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Blancpain refines a legend, bringing the Fifty Fathoms to a new generation of wrists without losing its spirit. A true diver’s watch, now with daily versatility and timeless capability!

After years of anticipation, Blancpain finally released a non-limited 42mm version of its iconic Fifty Fathoms Automatique, answering the call of enthusiasts who wanted a slightly more wearable interpretation of the classic. While the long-standing 45mm model remains the spiritual flagship, the 42mm opened the doors for more wrists to experience this legendary dive watch.

Introduced in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was the first true diver’s watch. Its groundbreaking features—including a rotating bezel, luminous dial, automatic movement, and anti-magnetic protection—set the standard for dive watches and remain central to the design today.

Now, with the addition of a 38mm model, Blancpain takes things a step further. With its slimmer profile, the 38.2mm Fifty Fathoms is now an option not just for dive-watch diehards but also for those looking for a capable piece that can double as a discrete and sophisticated daily wearer.

The Case

Let’s get into the details. The new case measures 38.2mm in diameter, 43.8mm lug to lug, and just 12mm thick, making it 2.3mm thinner than both its 42mm and 45mm siblings. The Fifty Fathoms is now available in a full spectrum of sizes, and what was once a somewhat exclusive design, mainly reserved for larger wrists, is now broadly accessible.

Blancpain has done the work here. Every dimension has been carefully rebalanced, resulting in a watch that maintains the muscular presence of a diver while achieving a more elegant, refined silhouette. Of course, this is still a serious diver: 300m of water resistance, a domed sapphire bezel, and a sapphire caseback that reveals the beautifully finished in-house movement. The bracelet and strap pins are secured by visible hex screws on the lugs—a subtle, technical detail that reinforces the watch’s high-end construction and no-expense-spared attitude.

Three case materials are offered: polished stainless steel, polished 18k red gold, and brushed Grade 23 titanium. On the 9 o’clock side, you’ll find the engraved BLANCPAIN emblem. It’s a polarising design element for sure, but one that’s consistent with modern Fifty Fathoms models and adds a bit of lateral interest to the case profile.

Ladies First: The 38.2mm Debut

Interestingly, Blancpain introduced this new 38mm platform not with the familiar black or blue unisex models, but with two ladies’ editions. One comes in rich 18k red gold, the other in ultra-light Grade 23 titanium with a playful pink sapphire bezel and electric pink lume. Both watches feature ocean-born mother-of-pearl dials with a subtle dégradé (gradient), colour-matched to their bezels.

Notably, there’s no date complication on these two dials—a design decision that enhances the natural texture and personality of the mother-of-pearl. It’s a clean, luxurious look, best appreciated underwater through a pair of dive goggles.

Pink With Purpose

The titanium model contrasts the industrial cool of its brushed case with the bright pop of a petal pink bezel. While Blancpain made no mention of the Blancpain x Swatch “Pink Ocean” collaboration, one can’t help but wonder if this Bioceramic sibling helped pave the way this time. If so, I’m all for it. I’ve long felt that many of the bold MoonSwatch and Scuba Fifty Fathoms colourways would translate beautifully into their higher-end originals. Bring on a haute horology “Ocean of Storms” edition, please!

Blancpain doesn’t list the weight, but given the use of titanium and sapphire, I’d estimate it’s featherlight—likely under 70g on a textile strap. The ladies’ models strike a beautiful balance between glamour, playfulness, and technical legitimacy. They’d make a stunning mother-daughter pair, especially for families with a connection to the ocean.

Fashionably Late

Meanwhile, tool watch purists will gravitate toward the classic black and blue models, long associated with Blancpain’s stainless steel, titanium, and red gold offerings. These came just a few days after the ladies’ versions – thanks for not making us wait too long! Whether you’re someone with a smaller wrist or simply a preference for more classically proportioned divers, the 38.2mm Fifty Fathoms hits a sweet spot that few others occupy at this level.

The black and blue sunray dials follow the clean design language of last year’s 42mm model, eschewing the step dial of the 45mm version. The date window sits subtly at 4:30 on the unisex models—a placement that feels natural within this design family.

Movement

Inside the unisex black and blue models is the in-house Blancpain Calibre 1150. The ladies’ pink and red gold models use the no-date variant, Calibre 1153. Both feature a free-sprung balance with a silicon hairspring, dual mainspring barrels, and a 100-hour power reserve—top-tier specs in any segment.

Each movement is topped with a partially skeletonized 18k gold rotor with anthracite NAC coating and red gold relief—a nod to the early automatic movements used in the original 1950s Fifty Fathoms, which also bore the FIFTY-FATHOMS inscription, even back then!

Straps & Bracelet

As always, Blancpain offers a wide selection of strap options: NATO, sailcloth, Tropic-style rubber, all colour-matched to their respective dials. A newly designed 19mm version of the beloved X-71 bracelet is now available for both the stainless steel and titanium models. Unfortunately, still no micro-adjust, so straps remain your best choice with a wetsuit.

Final Thoughts

The Fifty Fathoms 38.2mm joins the Bathyscaphe 38mm and the Air Command Chronograph 36.2mm in Blancpain’s growing collection of vintage-sized tool watches. At this level of craftsmanship and brand legacy, few competitors even come close. With this release, Blancpain doesn’t just make the Fifty Fathoms more accessible—they remind us why it was a legend in the first place.

By refining the dimensions while retaining 300m water resistance, a domed sapphire bezel, and a beautifully finished in-house movement, Blancpain proves that a true diver can be both elegant and capable. It’s a watch that doesn’t compromise, offering daily versatility without losing the spirit of exploration and technical excellence that made the Fifty Fathoms the gold standard for dive watches over 70 years ago.

Specification: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm (5007 12B44R NAFA)

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 28,200

Availability: Available now through Blancpain boutiques and authorised retailers, or head online to Blancpain.com.au

Specification: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm (5007 3644A B64B)

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 52,800

Availability: Available now through Blancpain boutiques and authorised retailers, or head online to Blancpain.com.au

Specification: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 29,700

Availability: Available now through Blancpain boutiques and authorised retailers, or head online to Blancpain.com.au

Specification: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 27,300

Availability: Available now through Blancpain boutiques and authorised retailers, or head online to Blancpain.com.au