A duet of new releases from Ulysse Nardin sees them unveil two spectacular revisions of the Freak One design, with both blue enamel and guilloché dials.
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak collection is undoubtedly one of the most iconic watches of the modern era. Not to toot my own horn, but I did write an article as to why that is. Long story short, though, it pioneered both present-day haute horlogerie designs as well as the use of silicon in watchmaking.
Since its introduction back in 2001, it’s remained at the forefront of the category it helped define, approaching watchmaking with varying degrees of unconventionality. But as is often the case in the watch world, to move forward, you have to look back.
That’s exactly what Ulysse Nardin did in 2023, releasing the Freak One as the original article redefined. Purifying and upgrading the radical, rule-breaking attitude of the OG Freak, it would go on to win that year’s Iconic Watch Prize at the GPHG.
But for as hyper-modern as the Freak One is in form and function, it still embraces its rich heritage of mechanical watchmaking spanning 180 years. This year, they’ve released a pair of models that prove this hypothesis, merging traditional craftsmanship with the Freak One’s singular form.
Getting Freaky
Technically separate releases but united in the collection, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled the Freak One Blue Enamel and Guilloché designs. Both showcase two traditional forms of horological craftsmanship in their design, but also come in the same familiar frame of the standard Freak One line.
Measuring 44mm in case diameter, 52.2mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, the very nature of the Freak lineup can be felt from the moment its imposing frame makes itself known. Though this limits it to most larger wrists, don’t let the size fool you. The case material of choice is titanium, making the watch wear far lighter than one would expect. Additionally, titanium remains far more corrosion- and shock-resistant than standard steel, fitting for a watch that looks like it came out of a mad scientist’s laboratory.
What you might also notice is the complete absence of the crown, which is a feature that has followed the Freak roster since the very first day. Based on a concept introduced by Carole Forestier-Kasapi, and mastered by Rolf Schnyder and Ludwig Oechslin, the Ulysse Nardin Freak One uses the bezel to set the time, while the caseback winds the watch. On this modern rendition, a small plaque also exists at six o’clock to lock the bezel in place when not in use.
Set on integrated rubber straps in either grey or white, both of the new Ulysse Nardin Freak One models keep themselves light and comfortable on the wrist, a direct contrast to their sheer size. Water-resistant to just 30m, though, I suspect these are the kinds of watches that you’d only bust out for special occasions.
A Cut Above
And ‘special’ is simply the beginning of how to describe these new watches. Ulysse Nardin has distinguished between the two with unique colourways, crafts, and patterns that honour their traditional heritage without compromising on their hyper-modern reputation. Starting with the familiar, both watches have no dial or hands to speak of.
Instead, the movement takes centre stage, rotating around to serve as the minute ‘hand’, with a fat lumed arrowhead. Just below, another arrowhead is applied to a rotating disc that helps to tell the hours. For a watch built to demonstrate its incredibly advanced mechanics, Ulysse Nardin has put considerable thought into maintaining legibility with the ‘hands’ alongside rectangular lumed indexes.
This incredible kinetic display is available in two unique interpretations. The first, Blue Enamel, mainly champions… well, blue enamel. With the assistance of enamel dial makers Donzé Cadrans, the initial white gold hour disc is decorated with a radiant sunray stamped guilloché pattern, which is then layered with translucent blue enamel and fired in a kiln.
This flinqué finish, combined with the underlying lustre of the white gold, results in a brilliant radiance that emphasises the depth of the stamped pattern within its rich blue backdrop. On a side note, if the name Donzé Cadrans sounds familiar, they’re the same workshop that was recently entrusted with Czapek’s Promenade L’Écume des Jours, further cementing their reputation in the watch world.
The second model, the Ulysse Nardin Freak One Guilloché, puts more emphasis on its key element; no points for guessing what that might be. Also sporting a flinqué enamel finish, the sand-toned hour disc uses a more complex diamond pattern that adds even more dimensionality to the watch.
I like how it’s not completely beige, but not leaning too far gold either, beautifully contrasting its surrounding cooler tones without overpowering them. But either way your eyes are tracking, there is no wrong answer to which piece is more beautiful.
Respect The Grind
Turning each watch around, admittedly, is not as spectacular as the moving carousel. However, you do get to see the beautiful monster that runs the show. Within the display caseback is the Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-240, beating at a steady 3Hz (21,600VpH) atop a staggering 90-hour power reserve. Introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2023, it’s remained the faithful servant of the Freak One collection since its conception.
Unlike the 2001 original, which was manually wound, the Cal. UN-240 uses an automatic rotor that adds to the watch’s versatility. Furthermore, it’s not just any old rotor, but the brand’s patented Grinder Winding System. Almost a mix between a standard automatic and peripheral rotor, the Grinder Winding System is able to capture even the smallest of movements, instantaneously translating them into energy for the watch. Between its incredible efficiency and the long power reserve, it becomes almost impossible to stop the frontward-facing revolving carousel movement once it gets started.
Initial Thoughts
Though I do hold love in my heart for a lot of the Freak models, I do feel like the original layout was always the best. It sounds almost oxymoronic to love the traditional version of one of the most non-traditional watches on the planet, but the carousel movement to me is simply the tip of the iceberg in the Freak’s unique nature. Thus, the Freak One is always going to be one of my favourites, as it’s a modern continuation of the beliefs that the Freak was introduced with: no crown, no dial, no hands, no problem.
And while the other three Freak One models certainly delve into the roster’s avant-garde lineage, the Blue Enamel and Guilloché duo help to emphasise the seriousness behind the madness. Through traditional techniques, the Freak One keeps doing what it does best. But now, it’s dressed in the horological equivalent of a tuxedo rather than haute couture.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 2403-500LE-3AE-BLUE/3A (Blue Enamel) 2403-500LE-4A-GUI/3A (Guilloché) |
| Dimensions | 44mm case diameter x 52.2mm lug-to-lug x 13.3mm thickness |
| Case | Titanium |
| Dial | Blue enamel flinqué guilloché pattern / Sand diamond flinqué guilloché pattern |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. UN-240 with flying carousel complication |
| Power Reserve | 90h |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz / 21,600VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Integrated white / grey rubber strap with titanium deployant buckle |