Singer Reimagined continues to establish their unique legacy in the independent watch scene, restoring a vintage movement in a new chronograph reference.
If you’re a gearhead, then you’ll have heard about Singer Vehicle Design. Founded by musician Rob Dickinson in 2009, it’s become one of the most famous automotive restomod companies on the planet.
Joined by elite company like RUF and RWB, they specialise in the customisation of air-cooled Porsche 911s, creating fresh and unique reimaginings of the model line through exhaustive aesthetic and technological transformation. With such a reputation for intricate craftsmanship, it’s no wonder that Singer decided to take their momentum down to a much, much smaller scale.
In 2017 came Singer Reimagined, the horological wing of Dickinson’s creative vision alongside watch designer Marco Borraccino. Primarily partnering with bespoke movement manufacturer Agenhor, they’ve become notorious for their unique aesthetics and unconventional complications to reimagine, no pun intended, vintage sports chronographs from the golden age of watchmaking.
But as they say, old habits die hard, and Singer can’t help but return to their classic MO: restoration. Their Heritage collection is exemplary of this, made up of heavily upgraded, new-old-stock mechanical chronograph movements from bygone eras. This year, they add two more iterations of the Heritage line to the catalogue as they honour the historical Valjoux 72.
A Case For Racing
The aptly named Singer Reimagined Heritage V72 establishes itself as a fresh, contemporary take on heritage-inspired watchmaking. The watch is defined by its modern approach to vintage style, featuring a sunray satin-brushed case with polished chamfers. Piston-shaped chronograph pushers and a glassbox sapphire crystal further establish the watch’s look, as if it came from an alternate universe of watches in the 1960s and ’70s.
Perhaps the least period-appropriate element of the watch is its size, measuring 38.8mm in case diameter, 44mm lug-to-lug, and 13.25mm thick. These dimensions make the new pair of watches compact enough for modern universal appeal, but large enough to maintain legibility. Of course, the wearing experience will differ drastically depending on which case material you choose. The first version, in steel, will feel like a classic wear, while the 18k yellow gold rendition will provide the watch with significant heft and wrist presence.
Also dependent on case material is the strap that the watch is supplied with. The steel model, perhaps somewhat obviously, leans into the sportier aspects of the watch with a grey textile strap. The dressier gold, on the other hand, utilises a black calfskin strap with deep brown stitching.
Both straps end with a material-matched pin buckle and can be quickly swapped out thanks to Singer Reimagined’s inclusion of interchangeable straps. Despite the restored movement inside, the brand has also taken strides to ensure the watch remains water-resistant to modern standards. While 50m might not sound like much, it is more than enough for a watch that dwells closer to the asphalt than the seaside.
Dials Of Future Past
But if the case establishes the Heritage V72’s retro-modern identity, then the dial design and layout make it hit a home run. At first glance, it’s fairly minimalist, but Singer Reimagined set out to prepare the eye for the restored movement rather than compete with it.
However, the dial still deserves its own bit of praise. Echoes of iconic chronographs of yore – like Paul Newman’s Daytona, the original TAG Heuer Carrera, Nina Rindt’s Universal Genève – have all been remixed and transformed into something completely new.
Set atop either a grey or black background, the watch uses a high-contrast palette of rhodium, orange, beige, and gold tones to capture both the eye and imagination of the wearer. The skeletonised plongeur hands, typically found on dive watches, have been halved with orange lume.
Meanwhile, a massive golden stud covers the centre axis where they and the chronograph seconds hand lie. A classic tricompax layout fills the grey or black backdrop, encircled by a minute track with applied gold indexes.
What I love here is how Singer Reimagined subtly changes the beige tone depending on the watch. Wearers will find a cleaner cream shade for the steel model, while a deeper champagne tone takes its place for the gold. Regardless, one final feature even surrounds that stunning display: Singer Reimagined’s signature gold-toothed flange, almost giving the impression of a fluted bezel where there is none. For as simplistic as it is at first glance, Singer Reimagined’s passion for design shines through in exhaustively refined detail.
Don’t Call It A Comeback
Finally, we get to the crowning feature of the watch. Not to say that a movement isn’t always the crowning feature of a watch, but it’s especially apparent when Singer Reimagined has gone through an excruciating amount of time to restore and upgrade it. The massive open caseback leaves the Valjoux 72 with nowhere to hide, showing every single detail in all its glory.
A legendary manual-wind chronograph movement, the Valjoux 72 was introduced in 1938 and defined generations of chronographs that would come after. Its most defining feature, one we hardly ever think about, is the inclusion of a 12-hour register. At the time, such a function, at least one that was reliable, was entirely unheard of, and established the Valjoux 72 as the king of kings within the chronograph space.
Rolex, old Heuer, Breitling, Patek Philippe, anyone who was anyone, and everyone in between, relied on the Valjoux 72 during its prime. So now you understand why Singer Reimagined set out to treat the Valjoux 72 with the reverence and respect it so truly deserves.
Beating at 2.5Hz (18,000VpH) atop a modest 44-hour power reserve, the restored calibre, designated by Singer Reimagined as the Cal. SG7201, has been meticulously upgraded and refined. This includes total disassembly, performance optimisation, and a whole load of incredible hand-finishing.
While the Valjoux 72 remains recognisable, Singer Reimagined has included frosted bridges, polished chamfers, and a blue ALD-finished switch component as a subtle signature of the restoration. Finally, the most important detail of all is inscribed atop the movement: “Restored by Singer”, a well-deserved hallmark for such a thorough rebirth of an iconic movement.
Initial Thoughts
Singer Reimagined has been on my mind for quite some time. As the summer of watchmaking begins to wind down before Geneva Watch Days, it’s given me the opportunity to tell you about some of the best independent brands out here. Singer Reimagined’s restomod history gives them such a unique take on horology, adding chapters to movements that once were instead of attempting to leverage sepia-toned nostalgia in an era of nostalgia fatigue.
As the two new additions to the Heritage line, the V72 models continue to uphold the legacy of the Valjoux 72. Maintaining respect for the movement whilst giving it a fresh, modern look, there’s no doubt in my mind that Singer Reimagined treats their watches like Singer Vehicle Design treats their cars: like rockstars. And as the former frontman of Catherine Wheel, Rob Dickinson would know a thing or two about that treatment…
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | SR621 (Steel) SR620-1 (Gold) |
| Dimensions | 38.8mm case diameter x 44mm lug-to-lug x 13.25mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel 18k yellow gold |
| Dial | Grey with beige, orange & gold accents Black with champagne, orange & gold accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, Sapphire |
| Movement | Restored manual wind Valjoux 72 Cal. SG7201 with chronograph (30min, 12hr registers) complication |
| Power Reserve | 44h |
| Beat Rate | 2.5Hz / 18,000VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Interchangeable grey textile strap with steel pin buckle Interchangeable black leather strap with gold pin buckle |