Audemars Piguet’s latest Royal Oak pairs full “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic with the mechanical theatre of a flying tourbillon.
How does a brand upgrade one of its most iconic timepieces without making it feel repetitive? That is certainly the challenge Audemars Piguet faces when it comes to the Royal Oak. This is a watch that has become a household name, with the design being so recognisable that it is one of the central identities of this Swiss watchmaker.
The answer to this question, at least with this latest release, is to not radically change the signature elements of the watch, but rather push its material boundaries and combine them with high complications to offer a different perspective on an iconic timepiece. This new Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon takes the familiar 41mm Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon platform and gives it a full “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic execution.
We are so used to seeing ceramic pieces in modern watchmaking, with the material becoming more and more common as technology advances further. However, this does not take away from the fact that making ceramic timepieces is an easy job, or that achieving the right finish with ceramic is a simple task. This becomes even more true when producing ceramic in a specific colour, where consistency across the case, bezel, crown and bracelet becomes a major undertaking.
Audemars Piguet says several years of development went into applying the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade to ceramic and ensuring a homogeneous colour that could be reproduced. “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” is not just another colour for Audemars Piguet. This is a colour that has been closely tied to the Royal Oak’s history, with the original 1972 Royal Oak featuring a deep blue dial that quickly became one of the defining design codes of the model.
Monochromatic Ceramic Meets Royal Oak Architecture
The colour is the main point of difference in this latest Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon ceramic edition, with Audemars Piguet retaining the wearable 41mm x 10.6mm thick case. The lug-to-lug measurement of this case is approximately 50.5mm, which does sit a little on the higher end. However, with that iconic tapered integrated bracelet design, it should hug the wrist nicely, even for smaller wrist sizes like mine at 16cm.
What certainly does help the model’s wearability is the use of ceramic material. Ceramic has properties such as being highly scratch-resistant, lightweight and hypoallergenic, all practical qualities when considering the wearability of the watch. Then, when you imbue it with the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour, it gains aesthetic appeal as well. The case, bezel, crown and integrated bracelet are all executed in ceramic and finished in the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour, which gives the watch a deeply monochromatic Royal Oak appearance.
In saying all this, though, this is not the first time Audemars Piguet has used “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” on a full ceramic timepiece, with the colour already appearing on the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked and Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph. What makes this model unique, of course, is that this execution is now featured on the brand’s high-complication Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon.
What I do love about these full ceramic models with the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour is that they do not remove the complexity of the Royal Oak design. The watch is so easily recognisable thanks to its architecture, which combines sharp, angular surfaces with smoother forms, along with that iconic octagonal bezel that then flows into the signature integrated bracelet design.
What makes using ceramic special here is that the Royal Oak’s sharp facets, brushed surfaces and polished bevels, along with the contrast between these finishes, are far more difficult to execute in ceramic than in steel. Add this deep blue colour to the mix, and it gives the Royal Oak a completely different personality, making it feel far more contemporary than a standard steel edition ever would.
And like the Perpetual Calendar and Selfwinding Chronograph editions, this Flying Tourbillon model continues the monochromatic theme of the watch with a matching “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Grande Tapisserie dial. This gives the watch a complete “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” identity from bracelet to dial.
While I do feel that a black or white dial would do wonders here, as it would break up the blue of the case, bezel and bracelet and, incidentally, allow those elements to stand out more, integrating a “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial also serves as a homage to the original Royal Oak. After all, the deep blue dial has been one of the collection’s defining design signatures since 1972.
Then we have the highlight of the dial sitting at 6 o’clock. The flying tourbillon is certainly no easy feat to manufacture, and with it being the sole complication on this watch, it receives the full attention that it truly deserves. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock also ties in nicely with the 18k white gold applied hour markers and hands, which contrast beautifully against the deep blue dial.
A 65-Hour Flying Tourbillon Calibre
Inside this latest Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon sits Audemars Piguet’s in-house Calibre 2950. Measuring just 6.2mm thick, this automatic flying tourbillon movement is comprised of 270 components and operates at a beat rate of 3Hz, or 21,600vph, with a power reserve output of 65 hours.
For a flying tourbillon calibre, these movement specs sit well within expectations, as the movement has to drive a constantly rotating regulating organ rather than a fixed escapement. In that context, the 3Hz frequency helps balance energy efficiency, stability and power reserve, while still allowing the Calibre 2950 to deliver a respectable 65 hours of running time.
Initial Thoughts
This latest watch continues Audemars Piguet’s endeavour of integrating its signature “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” into its high-complication Royal Oak timepieces. I have always loved the brand’s Royal Oak ceramic editions, as they give a completely different perspective on such an iconic design. And this is certainly the case with this monochromatic full “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” look, giving the watch a darker and more contemporary personality, all while retaining the unmistakable architecture of the Royal Oak design.
Having this full “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” look on this Flying Tourbillon timepiece offers, in my opinion, a more wearable and “understated” appearance. Compared to the Perpetual Calendar and Chronograph editions, the dial has a less complex aesthetic, even though it features one of the most revered high complications in watchmaking. The flying tourbillon’s placement at 6 o’clock allows it to take centre stage without overwhelming the rest of the dial. In that sense, the watch feels technically impressive, but visually more restrained.
This latest Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon feels like a fitting continuation of the brand’s full ceramic Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” story. It is a highly technical execution that is unmistakably Audemars Piguet.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | Ref. 26730CD.OO.1225CD.01 |
| Dimensions | 41mm diameter x 50.5mm lug-to-lug x 10.6mm thickness |
| Case | “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic with fine-brushed/polished surfaces |
| Dial | Blue Grande Tapisserie dial is complemented by 18-carat white gold hands and hour-markers filled with luminescent material, and a blue inner bezel. Flying tourbillon high-complication at 6 o’clock. |
| Crystal | Sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Caseback | Sapphire with anti-reflective coating. |
| Movement | TH20-11 automatic calibre |
| Power Reserve | 65 hours |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz (21,600 VpH) |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic integrated bracelet is fitted with a titanium AP folding clasp. |