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Parmigiani Fleurier is celebrating its 30th Anniversary in style with three Tonda PF models, each limited to 30 pieces, and all in platinum.

Anniversaries are always good to celebrate, and this year it is Parmigiani Fleurier’s 30th anniversary. Now, 30 years in the watch world isn’t a long time when you consider some brands have been around for more than 200 years. But for a smaller independent brand, it is a significant milestone. And it is a milestone worth celebrating, which is exactly what Parmigiani Fleurier is doing with these new releases.

The TONDA PF collection is fast gaining popularity among collector circles thanks to its distinctive design language and the unique approach Parmigiani Fleurier has taken with complications such as the GMT Rattrapante and Minute Rattrapante. Rather than creating overly complex watches, the brand has focused on making these complications intuitive to use while maintaining the clean aesthetic that has become synonymous with the collection.

Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Gets The Arctic Rose Look

It is fitting then that, for the 30th Anniversary Trilogy Collection, Parmigiani Fleurier has chosen three of the collection’s most innovative creations, producing just 30 examples of each in solid platinum.

Three Watches That Represent Modern Parmigiani Fleurier

The hidden hands complication is very much a signature move from Parmigiani Fleurier, and the release of this trilogy utilises it in various forms. The trilogy comprises the TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante, TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante and the new TONDA PF Chronographe Mystérieux.

Each watch is made from 950 platinum, from the case and knurled bezel through to the integrated bracelet, all tied together via the aforementioned philosophy. Every complication has been designed to appear only when needed before disappearing again, allowing the watch to return to its clean, minimalist appearance.

Using platinum reinforces the exclusivity of the collection via its understated lustre, which complements the restrained design language of the TONDA PF, a design language that has been growing on me now for a while. The use of platinum means these will feel hefty on the wrist, but only in a good way. With only 30 pieces of each model being produced, and the option to purchase the complete trilogy as a presentation set, these watches are clearly aimed at the brand’s most dedicated collectors.

TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante Platinum

Of the three watches, the GMT Rattrapante best captures Parmigiani Fleurier’s use of discreet complications. Where most GMT watches display a permanently visible second time zone. Parmigiani Fleurier instead has kept the minimalistic dial nature by hiding the GMT hand when not in use via, essentially, a Rattrapante function.

At home, the watch appears as a time-only piece. Press the pusher integrated into the crown and an 18-carat rose gold hour hand pops out from beneath the rhodium-plated local hour hand, allowing a second time zone to be tracked. Another press sends it back beneath the main hour hand, restoring the clean symmetry of the dial.

It is a way Parmigiani Fleurier has allowed the wearer to have a classic modern, yet dressier sports watch, with the versatility of a GMT function, but only when needed!

For the anniversary edition, the 40mm case, integrated bracelet and signature knurled bezel are all crafted from 950 platinum, complemented by a sandblasted platinum dial that contrasts beautifully with the polished and satin-brushed surfaces of the case.

Inside is the automatic manufacture Calibre PF051, featuring Parmigiani Fleurier’s split GMT mechanism and a 22-carat rose gold micro-rotor. It offers a 48-hour power reserve and operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour.

TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante Platinum

If the GMT Rattrapante simplified travel, the Minute Rattrapante is a unique take on how we measure short periods of time. Inspired by the “Scuba” timing function originally developed by Parmigiani Fleurier, the complication uses a second minute hand to measure elapsed minutes before returning beneath the primary minute hand once timing is complete. If you’re not into scuba diving, then it’s a handy function to time how long the rice has been on for, or anything really that requires timing in minutes.

Like the GMT Rattrapante, the complication only reveals itself when required, maintaining the understated elegance that has become a hallmark of the TONDA PF collection. It is a complex function, but done in Parmigiani Fleurier’s minimalistic and elegant way.

The anniversary edition follows the same recipe as the rest of the trilogy, pairing a 40mm platinum case with a sandblasted platinum dial, rhodium-plated gold indexes and skeletonised delta-shaped hands. The contrasting rose gold minute rattrapante hand provides just enough colour to identify the complication.

Powering the watch is the automatic manufacture Calibre PF052, featuring a rose gold micro-rotor, a 48-hour power reserve and a remarkably slim 4.9mm profile. Through the sapphire caseback, the movement displays the same beautiful finishing expected from Parmigiani Fleurier.

TONDA PF Chronographe Mystérieux Platinum

We’ve now saved the best ’til last, and my personal favourite of the three – the Chronographe Mystérieux, the steel version of which was released back in April at Watches & Wonders. Even though chronographs are among the most common complications in watchmaking, Parmigiani Fleurier has rethought how the function is presented in the TONDA PF style.

When the chronograph isn’t in use, there is little to suggest the watch is anything more than a refined time-only piece. The chronograph hands remain hidden until activated via the monopusher integrated into the case. A sequence of presses starts, stops and resets the chronograph before the hands disappear once again, restoring the dial to its minimalist layout.

Using the monopusher chronograph button at the 7:30 position, the start activates the chronograph. The timekeeping seconds hand snaps back (a little like a flyback) along with the rhodium hour and minute hands to start the timing sequence, while the gold minute and hour hands now become your way of reading the current time. Press the button again, and it stops, and a third time, the rhodium hands return to the current time, and the gold hands hide away, no longer being needed. Watch the video below on how the function works for a clearer idea…

Powering the watch is the new manufacture Calibre PF053, comprising 362 components, beating at 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and delivering a 60-hour power reserve. The movement features satin-finished open-worked bridges, bevelled finishing and a skeletonised 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight, all visible through the sapphire caseback.

Despite housing a fully integrated chronograph, the watch measures a balanced 40mm in diameter and 13mm thick while offering 100 metres of water resistance. Yes, it is a little thicker than the GMT and Minute Rattrapante, but 13mm isn’t too large when it comes to chronographs, especially one like this that doesn’t use conventional subdials.

Like its siblings, it pairs a sandblasted platinum dial with an integrated platinum bracelet to complete the trilogy’s cohesive aesthetic.

Initial Thoughts

While each watch in the Platinum Trilogy is not new technically, as they are all variations of previous releases, this release showcases what Parmigiani Fleurier has become over the past decade, and more so the TONDA PF collection at that.

Under Guido Terreni’s leadership, the TONDA PF collection has established a clear identity within the luxury sports watch segment, focusing on proportion, restraint and thoughtful engineering, as opposed to bold styling or unnecessary complexity or flamboyance. Parmigiani Fleurier is quiet luxury at its best and for those collectors who want to fly under the radar somewhat. IFYYK.

The TONDA PF has become the face of the manufacture, arguably more so than the Toric, which was the first watch designed by Michel Parmigiani back in 1996, and these three platinum limited editions represent some of its most innovative thinking around the ability to showcase, or in this case, hide, useful complications behind a seemingly time-only watch.

With just 30 examples of each available worldwide, but also available as a complete set for those who have the wallet size to do so, the TONDA PF Platinum Trilogy reinforces why Parmigiani Fleurier continues to earn the respect of collectors who appreciate thoughtful watchmaking over unnecessary complexity. And in a world that wants you to stand out and shout, the Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF lets you stand out quietly, and I like that!

References & Specifications

TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante

TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante

TONDA PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Availability: Limited edition of 30 pieces each worldwide. For local availability, head to Parmigiani.com