Romain Gauthier, one of haute horlogerie’s most revered independent watchmakers, has unveiled a new, compact offering in his ultra-luxe sports watch line.
The rise of the sports watch has been felt across all levels of the watch industry. From the humblest entry points to the heights of luxury, every brand and type of consumer wants a versatile timepiece that can be worn anytime, anywhere. Within the independent watch scene, however, lies perhaps the most interesting selection of sports watches. Unburdened by traditional restraints, it is a constant competition to see who can create the most innovative or creative watches around.
A highlight within the independent sports watch scene is the C collection by Romain Gauthier. Introduced by the brand in 2021, it is a simple yet highly unconventional sports watch. Combining a modern frame, contemporary asymmetry and groundbreaking manufacturing, the C’s measured design cues have made it easily distinguishable among its peers.
However, no matter what type of C was created, whether it was a tourbillon, platinum case, white gold model, or otherwise, the collection shared the same 41mm case. This year, however, Romain Gauthier has elected to change that. Debuting in triplicate, the C has been recreated in a new, more compact size that may just give it the perfect edge over its competitors once more.
C Is For Compact
The Romain Gauthier C Titanium 39.5 Editions all come in the same smaller dimensions. The diameter has been shaved down by 1.5mm to an unassuming 39.5mm, complemented by a 46mm lug-to-lug and a 9.5mm thickness. These dimensions significantly reduce the watch’s profile, allowing for a more universal appeal. This is the smallest the C collection has ever gone, and only the second collection in Romain Gauthier’s 21-year history to do so after the Insight.
Made from Grade 5 titanium, it wears feather-light and unobtrusive, with not even the crown to put the experience at risk; that has been moved to just after the two o’clock index. The offset crown gives the watch an unusual but recognisable silhouette, furthered by the six-faceted bezel made from straight cuts to a rounded bevel.
The case material and framework combined create a watch with an undoubtedly postmodern, space-age attitude. Personally, it reminds me closely of the old TAG Heuer Kirium models, designed by Jorg Hysek in the late 1990s.
The package comes complete with an integrated white rubber strap, which tapers down to a titanium pin buckle. Should you not wish for white, though, it can always be changed thanks to Romain Gauthier’s built-in interchangeable strap system.
One fault I will give this watch, however, is its water resistance. While 50m on the 41mm models felt adequate enough, the 39.5mm’s 30m water resistance makes it more suited to dressier special occasions than day-to-day activities. Still, the case and strap are finely made, with materials guaranteed to withstand long-term usage.
C Is For Contemporary
At first glance, the design of the C Titanium 39.5 watches might not drop jaws, but look closer and it certainly will. All watches are set atop a blue-grey horizontally lined backdrop, finished by pointed lumed hands with applied lume indexes and quarter-hour numerals.
The first thing you may notice about the display is that it is not entirely central; in fact, the watch is asymmetrical by design, with the black printed minute track pulling away from the six o’clock mark. The hands are also set slightly higher than they would normally be, too.
The second noticeable detail is the seven o’clock small seconds subdial. It features a lumed seconds hand with a complete track, finished with tapering sunburst-style lines in either light blue, orange or pink. And yes, depending on which accent you choose, the lume colour is the same.
The final feature, however, is the dial itself. More than just a horizontally brushed background, the dial is actually made out of a synthetic metallised sapphire disc. Treated with microscopic metallic vapour depositions to render it semi-opaque, it is then textured into a series of straight lines. The result is a dial with a level of light play and depth that is not seen anywhere else in the watch world. Combined with the overall design, they cement the Romain Gauthier C Titanium 39.5 as a wholly unique, contemporary line of watches.
C Is For Craftsmanship
But if you thought the dial was incredible, just wait until you turn the watch around. The Romain Gauthier brand was built on a reputation for exceptional hand-finishing, and the C is absolutely no exception. I am not going to sugar-coat it: this is perhaps my favourite movement of all time.
Through the caseback runs the unnamed, in-house movement, which I have dubbed the Calibre C for obvious reasons. It is manually wound, beats at the classic 4Hz (28,800VpH), runs for 60 hours, and powers the small seconds complication. But obviously, that is not why this movement is so amazing; just look at that finishing!
The Cal. C uses what is called a ‘finger bridge’ construction, a style popularised by Jean-Antoine Lépine in the 1770s. Transitioning away from a singular, solid plate, finger bridges provide enhanced single-point structural stability, modularity and ease of access should a component be damaged.
Romain Gauthier has put a spin on the layout with the Cal. C, constructing it from the same Grade 5 titanium as the case for added ruggedness. With each bridge finished with double bevelling, horizontal brushing and a metal-dimpling pattern called bouchardage, the Cal. C is perhaps one of the finest examples of movement manufacturing that exists in the entire industry.
Initial Thoughts
The summer of watchmaking begins to wind down, and brands have started to peter off from their frenetic release schedules. This is all the better for us at Watch Advice, though, as we now have the opportunity to showcase more niche sides of horology that we do not normally get to cover. As a massive fan of independent watchmaking, I was ecstatic at the idea of finally sharing one of my favourite brands with all of you.
In any case, Romain Gauthier’s new addition to the C line not only follows the growing trend of smaller watches, but provides a new wave of luxury watch lovers with a new avenue to satiate their sports watch cravings. Sure, it’s not the hyper-ambitious, in-your-face aesthetic you might expect from other watches in the independent scene. Yet, it offers an unparalleled experience through its subtle feel, distinctive look, and sheer commitment to masterful, hand-crafted horology.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | MON00570 (Blue Accents) MON00611 (Orange Accents) MON00612 (Pink Accents) |
| Dimensions | 39.5mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 9.45mm thickness |
| Case | Grade 5 titanium |
| Dial | Horizontally metallised sapphire grey/blue with blue/orange/pink accents & lume |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Manual wind Cal. C with small seconds complication |
| Power Reserve | 60h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Interchangeable integrated white rubber strap with titanium pin buckle |