Seiko have returned back to their recurring silk motif, as they unveil four new Presage models in a series of spectacular new colourways.
With each generation of the Seiko Presage series, the collection has explored different elements of Japanese heritage. From porcelain crafts to textiles, no art or craft is off limits for the Japanese powerhouse. In particular, one inspiration the brand has frequently drawn from is silk production, a celebrated traditional Japanese industry.
We’ve covered such thematic pieces on our page twice prior, such as the Ref. HCC004 145th Anniversary Edition, or the five silk-inspired timepieces unveiled in 2024. This year, Seiko continues to evolve its Presage Classic collection alongside silk crafts, with four new references that draw from the elegance of Tomioka silk.
Silk N’ Steel
The new HCC001, HCC002, HCC003, and the limited-edition HCC008 are sized at 38mm in case diameter with a 12.9mm thickness. Encased in stainless steel, these new Seiko Presage Tomioka Silk models are highly adaptable and universally wearable.
Sitting between the smaller 36mm and larger 40mm offerings from the brand, they offer a balanced alternative for enthusiasts seeking a dress watch that remains versatile for everyday wear. This is further bolstered by their 100m water resistance and Seiko’s super-hard coating on the steel models. These added features, while wholly unnecessary for a dress watch, are by no means unwelcome.
Strap and bracelet offerings vary across models. HCC001 and HCC002 are fitted with seven-link steel bracelets that wrap gracefully around the wrist. Conversely, the HCC003 and HCC008 are paired with dark brown leather straps that emphasise a more formal aesthetic. What remains consistent throughout every reference is the clasp, set in a butterfly format with push-button release.
That’s What I Like
While silk might be the recurring theme in these Seiko watches, the context shifts beyond the material and instead references a major proponent of its manufacturing heritage. This is thanks to the UNESCO-registered Tomioka Silk Mill, which was established in 1872 as Japan’s first modern, government-run model silk factory.
Introducing advanced French mass-production techniques, it bolstered the textile industry as a backbone of Japan’s modernisation. As a result, these new models celebrate the contributions of the Tomioka Silk Mill alongside the Tomioka Silk Promotion Organisation.
Set atop a stamped guilloché-like pattern mimicking silk’s flow, each colour variant comes with a distinct symbolic meaning: HCC001 in Shironeri white, representing the purity of refined silk; HCC002’s Wakatake-iro – a fresh, vibrant green favoured in kimono dyeing; HCC003’s Sakura-iro, evocative of the iconic cherry blossom; and HCC008, its pearlescent white mimicking the lustre and texture of Tomioka silk itself.
All models feature applied baton-style hour markers and a clean, no-date dial layout that enhances symmetry and focus. A stepped chapter ring adds subtle dimensionality, framing the textured centre dial. Altogether, it makes for a delightfully composed combination that underscores why Seiko dial design is so highly regarded.
Prestigious Presages
What also remains consistent is Seiko’s commitment to high-level mechanics, even at an accessible price point. All four models, as is standard for most of the Presage line, are powered by the returning Calibre 6R55 automatic movement. Operating at 3Hz (21,600VpH) with a robust 72-hour power reserve, it’s a no-date variant of the calibre.
Through the open caseback, the finishing remains utilitarian. While it is contrasted by a warm brass rotor, Seiko movements are often more spartan in nature. However, the lack of flash doesn’t mean a lack of substance, as the 6R series has proved time and again that they are reliable, no-nonsense, accurate movements.
Initial Thoughts
I’ve been noticing such a shift among brands of all shapes and sizes, where the convenience factor for the customer is becoming a higher priority in both form and function. Long have some waited for a Seiko model that is almost entirely universally appealing.
With the release of this new Tomioka Silk capsule, Seiko continues to update and evolve their collections by introducing a 38mm to the party. It’s not groundbreaking, nor hyper-innovative, but not all watches need to be. Sometimes, they just need to be good — if not better — at what they already do. In the new Seiko Presage Classic series’ case, these four models show a significant shift towards the better.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | HCC001 (Shironeri white) HCC002 (Wakatake-iro green) HCC003 (Sakura-iro pink) HCC008 (Pearlescent white & gold) |
| Dimensions | 38mm case diameter x 12.9mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel Pink gold PVD steel (HCC008) |
| Dial | White / green / pink / pearlescent white stamped guilloché |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 6R55 |
| Power Reserve | 72h |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz / 21,600VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100m / 10bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Steel bracelet with butterfly clasp (HCC001/002) Brown leather strap with steel / pink gold PVD butterfly clasp & buckle (HCC003/008) |