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Ever since these dropped, I just can’t get enough of them! The double debut of these new Seiko Presage models reminds us all what the brand is capable of.

In the watch world, conversation around Seiko is often done in a casual tone. They are to watches what Toyota is to cars: reliable, recognisable, and practically everywhere. From that analogy alone, you might think that’s all they share with Toyota — but not quite.

Like the Japanese car brands, Japanese watch brands possess a humility that belies their true nature. Inside and out, Seiko timepieces combine robust mechanics with classy presentation at nearly every possible price point. While this includes the ever-popular Grand Seiko and the masterful Credor, people often forget what the mainline brand is still capable of.

So, as the company rings in its 145th anniversary, that’s exactly what Seiko has done with its latest Presage models. Distilling everything they know — and everything we love — about their brand of horology, Seiko has unveiled two new limited editions that are certain to capture hearts, minds, wrists, and wallets alike.

Steely Disposition

As always, Seiko models hardly have names beyond their references, which in this case are the HCC007 and HCC004. Starting with the former, it is the larger of the two, measuring 39.6mm in case diameter with a thickness of 12.8mm. It’s a respectable silhouette, especially for a dress watch like the Presage, and should wear comfortably on most wrists.

If you’re looking for something more compact, though, the smaller HCC004 may be more your speed. At 36mm wide and 12.5mm thick, this new Presage model matches the larger version’s elegance, albeit in a slightly stubbier frame. Defined by its soft, flowing curves, the HCC004 has also been decorated with a fluted bezel.

Both watches come encased in stainless steel, paired with a black calfskin strap and deployant buckle combination to match. I’ve never been the biggest fan of Seiko’s tougher leather offerings; it’s worth noting that the break-in period can take longer than with some other leather straps. Regardless, they do soften over time, and only further enhance the wearing experience as they mould to the contours of your wrist.

Precious Porcelain & Smooth Silk

While Seiko has, like any watch brand, seen its fair share of scrutiny over the years, very little of it has ever centred around presentation. That’s because, in true Japanese fashion, it is almost always flawless. That is especially true with these new Presage models, which showcase the dedication Seiko pours into its fine craftsmanship.

The larger HCC007 distinguishes itself most clearly through its use of an Arita-ware (有田焼) porcelain dial. Glazed in what the brand calls “Cobalt Blue”, the dial was meticulously crafted by Toshiaki Kawaguchi and his team under the supervision of master craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi at a historic Arita manufacturer.

With roots dating back to the early 19th century, the manufacturer crafts the dial from Arita porcelain said to be four times stronger than normal. As robust as it is refined, the material subtly shifts between different shades of blue, almost mimicking a drop of water in a pond.

Not to be completely outdone, the HCC004 brings its own flavour of Japanese tradition to the table. The stark white dial is inspired by shironeri (白練), a colour representing brilliant, un-tinted, pure white silk. We’ve seen Seiko take inspiration from silk on several past occasions, such as the 2023 Presage Sharp Edge and 2024 Presage Classic series. This new model puts a fresh spin on the idea, pairing a radiant white finish with a thread-like texture emanating from the blued hands.

Keeps On Ticking

While both Seikos distinguish themselves through their presentation, they do the same mechanically as well. Admittedly, the movements are nowhere near as flashy as the dials. However, both the Cal. 6R51 and Cal. 6R55 respectively stand out for Seiko’s trademark reliability and robustness.

Both movements are part of Seiko’s upscale 6R series, though they come from different backgrounds. The larger Cal. 6R51 is commonly found in King Seiko models, while the more compact Cal. 6R55 is prevalent throughout the smaller King Sieko and Prospex lines. Regardless, both beat at 3Hz (21,600VpH) and offer a 72-hour power reserve, underscoring their capabilities as daily drivers despite their dressier appearances.

Initial Thoughts

Seiko is a consistently infuriating brand for me, though more often than not, it is for good reasons. While it faces the same classic issues as other watch brands, my frustration is usually directed at the quality-to-price ratio of its releases. I can’t recall the last time I saw an awesome Seiko release only for my excitement to collapse at the sight of my shockingly empty wallet.

Unfortunately, that also seems to be the case here. Both Seiko Presage models are limited editions — 1,500 pieces for the HCC007 and 2,500 for the HCC004 — which at least gives me a small window to save up. Still, I won’t be holding my breath given the level of craftsmanship and relative accessibility these new pieces offer.

In all, it’s nice to see a Toyota Crown or Lexus every now and then, but sometimes it’s best to return to Toyota itself to see where greatness started. In a similar vein, these new Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary editions exemplify why Seiko is praised the way it is, both within its devoted fanbase of Seikophiles and beyond.

References & Specifications

Australian Retail Price: AU$2,700

Availability: Limited to 1,500 pieces. Available for pre-order online at SeikoBoutique.com.au

Australian Retail Price: $1,600

Availability: Limited to 2,500 pieces. Available for pre-order online at SeikoBoutique.com.au