Jaeger-LeCoultre’s second addition to their conservative Master Ultra Thin Moon 36 envelops the watch in decadent 18k pink gold.
If there are any watch brands benefiting from the growing trend towards smaller watches, it would have to be those with a storied focus on dress pieces. The dress watch follows an incredibly strict set of rules, requiring a tremendous amount of thought to keep it as conservative and simple as possible, but not in a way that’s boring. It’s a task far easier said than done, but when you’re the watchmaker’s watchmaker, it’s just another day at the office.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legacy in the formal horological space is concrete, with iconic dress models like the Reverso and Master Ultra Thin heading up its catalogue. Part of this stacked roster is the Master Ultra Thin Moon, introduced in 2012 as one of the most capable yet romantically elegant timepieces of its generation.
Though the collection’s larger 39mm case diameter is already universally wearable, Jaeger-LeCoultre also began offering the watch in a more conservative 36mm size. However, the only model on offer thus far has been in a steel case. At least, until now. Perhaps it was the swing back towards smaller watches or simply a matter of good timing, but Jaeger-LeCoultre has now introduced a new precious metal iteration to join its sole predecessor.
Pink (Gold) Lady
For those familiar with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s roster, the sizing of the new Master Ultra Thin Moon 36 will come as no surprise. Well, it shouldn’t surprise you anyway, given the case diameter has already been mentioned numerous times.
Combined with a 42mm lug-to-lug measurement and a thickness of 9.34mm, the case is compact without diminishing its wrist presence. If anything, it’s bound to be more prominent than the steel model, considering it’s made from 18-carat pink gold. The density of the case material gives the watch a surprising amount of heft for its size, though its sub-10mm profile will still slip under any cuff or jacket sleeve.
With nary a brushed surface in sight, the pink gold emanates a warm glow, though not as ostentatiously as yellow gold would. The bezel’s parallel alignment with the case also helps open up the dial layout, making it a more prominent and legible focal point of the watch.
From the lugs flows a black alligator leather strap, terminating in a classic 18-carat pink gold pin buckle. Perhaps it shouldn’t surprise you that this watch is water-resistant to 50 metres. But maybe it does, as 30 metres is typically the dress watch standard. Still, for a delicate-looking dress piece, the Master Ultra Thin Moon 36 is prepared for daily life.
To The Moon!
From the dial side, there is again little deviation from the original steel model. But as the adage goes, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. And when it comes to Jaeger-LeCoultre, very little needs fixing. The watch retains the same sunray-brushed silver backdrop as before, now complemented by matching pink gold accents.
A set of Dauphine hands, a signature of most Jaeger-LeCoultre models, sits at the centre, polished and faceted, while a blue seconds hand offers a subtle cool contrast. The blue tone matches nicely with the moonphase complication at six o’clock, which shows a golden moon set against a blue backdrop dotted with similarly golden stars. Around it, the date is indicated by Arabic numerals and a date pointer.
Sharp, dart-like markers indicate each hour, pointing inwards towards the hands, while the minutes are marked by small applied metal dots encircling the display. This isn’t an entirely unfamiliar look, having also appeared prominently in the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collection, and it adds another touch of dimensionality to the piece.
While I’m more partial to a small seconds complication, or none at all, when it comes to dress watches, the inclusion of a central seconds hand gives this watch a contemporary touch. It’s not the most mind-blowing achievement by any stretch, but being able to tell the time clearly and accurately to the second feels more in line with the demands of modern life. Therefore, despite its overtly traditional appearance, the Master Ultra Thin Moon 36 conveys its elegance to a modern audience.
All Under Control
Speaking of telling the time, turning the watch around reveals the movement through the open caseback. Within is the Calibre 925, beating at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800VpH) and offering a daily-friendly 70-hour power reserve. The only complications are the moonphase and date pointer, operated via an inset pusher and the crown respectively.
It’s interesting to see a growing trend of dress watches not only housing automatic movements but also offering longer power reserves. Again, this plays into the more contemporary nature of the Master Ultra Thin Moon 36 compared to other dress watches in the industry.
Now, though Jaeger-LeCoultre is in the midst of introducing its new certification, the High Performance Guarantee, as seen in the latest Master Control Chronomètre line, the Calibre 925 still carries the 1000 Hours Control hallmark. Though it’s no longer the brand’s latest certification, 1000 Hours Control remains an impressive achievement.
As you might have guessed, the movement has been tested for a total of 1,000 hours, or just over 41 days, across multiple positions, power reserve states, temperature extremes, and simulations of water, motion and air pressure changes. Rest assured, even though it’s a dress piece featuring one of watchmaking’s decorative complications, it can soldier on through almost anything you could throw at it.
Initial Thoughts
I delight in the gradual blossoming of the modern dress watch world. We’ve asked ourselves a few times whether the dress watch is truly dead, as modern sensibilities have begun to drift towards versatile, sporty pieces. But we’ve rarely asked whether a dress watch can still establish contemporary appeal while adhering to the genre’s stringent rules.
As it turns out, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 36 does so and then some. While the steel-cased version is perhaps the more versatile of the two, the use of pink gold doesn’t mean this watch shies away from its duties. With its compact case, simple yet sharp display, and the ability to do everything its predecessor can, the Master Ultra Thin Moon 36 proves that the dress watch still has plenty to offer. The only difference is that now it looks way cooler doing it.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | Q1242521 |
| Dimensions | 36mm case diameter x 42mm lug-to-lug x 9.34mm thickness |
| Case | 18k pink gold |
| Dial | Sunray-brushed silver with gold & blue accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 925 with date pointer & moonphase complications |
| Power Reserve | 70h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Interchangeable black alligator leather strap with pink gold pin buckle |