Nomos’ latest addition to their roster is a new rendition of their Metro Date Power Reserve, but the colour change is just the tip of the iceberg…
“More than meets the eye” is more than just a tagline from Transformers. For the Glashütte independent watchmaker Nomos, it’s the driving force behind every timepiece it creates. Adhering to the function-follows-form philosophy of the Bauhaus movement, every watch is crafted to appear as simple and intuitive as possible.
However, they disguise a surprising complexity, with the German brand taking a unique approach to complications through its in-house movement manufacturing. One such watch that exemplifies this is the Nomos Metro Date Power Reserve, a distinctly urban watch with cues literally inspired by metro lines.
This year, Nomos looks to add to the cosmopolitan character of the Metro Date Power Reserve with a new interpretation. Refreshing both the design and internal mechanics, Nomos leans into a trending dial tone without compromising the original’s DNA.
To The Wire
Meet the aptly named Nomos Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue. Measuring 37mm in diameter, 43.6mm lug-to-lug and 8mm thick, the steel watch is an extremely compact wear on the wrist. Created by Berlin-based product designer Mark Braun, the case’s crowning design element is its use of wire lugs instead of conventional ones.
Though primarily intended to mimic the lines of rail maps seen in places like New York City and Tokyo, they also give the watch a touch of heritage appeal. Wire lugs trace their origins back to the first wristwatches of the early 20th century, and here they’re given a whole new lease on life. They also reduce the bulk of the case profile, which is much appreciated given Nomos’ often generous lug-to-lug measurements.
The completely polished case and lug assembly gives way to a black calfskin strap, terminating in a classic pin buckle. Interestingly, Nomos has also included tool-free strap interchangeability. Given the unique lug construction, however, whichever band you choose to change into should perhaps come from Nomos itself.
As you might expect from a city watch, water resistance is rated at just 50 metres, but that’s more than enough to get anyone through the rigours of everyday life, whether on the street, in the office or on an unpredictable train ride, like New York’s J train or Brisbane’s Helensvale Express.
Winter Wonderland
While the silhouette of the Nomos Metro Date Power Reserve already conveys its design language well, the dial further cements it. For a 37mm watch, the dial layout is incredibly light and open. The only major interruptions, aside from the hands themselves, are the subtly inset small seconds subdial, the asymmetrical power reserve indicator and the trapezoidal date window at six o’clock.
Beyond these features, the metro inspirations continue with contrasting printed dots, like those used to mark stops on a rail map, appearing as the hour indices and around the minute track. Arabic numerals also mark each five-minute interval, allowing the small, simplistic watch to be read intuitively at a glance.
Where the original was a mix of colours appropriate for both rail maps and watches alike, the new Ice Blue reference takes the collection into distinctly horological territory. Its galvanised finish gives the dial a fine-grained appearance, shifting in tone depending on the direction of the light.
Though I’m not the biggest ice-blue dial guy, I’m more partial to this interpretation, sitting closer to light blue than the typically trendy shade. The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve shares a similar colour, but the texture of Nomos’ dial recalls the grenage finish found on the Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph I reviewed not too long ago. Perhaps such a similarity is unsurprising, given that the two manufactures are next-door neighbours.
Simply Radiant
Yet the biggest change isn’t in the silhouette or the design, but in what runs the watch behind the scenes. Visible through the open caseback – should you go for one – the new Calibre DUW 4701 makes its debut in the Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue. Manually wound and beating at a steady 3Hz (21,600VpH), it retains one of the few similarities between itself and its predecessor, the Cal. DUW 4401.
For starters, the power reserve has increased from 42 hours to 52, bringing it more in line with modern standards. While I don’t typically like having a power reserve indicator on the front of a watch, I find it’s an exception for an everyday-leaning piece that relies solely on manual winding.
The second, and most vital, change they’ve made is the addition of a quickset date. Without it, the previous movement had to rely on a back-and-forth rapid-setting mechanism, which required far more input than the new one demands.
Finally, the Cal. DUW 4701 introduces a unique take on Glashütte stripes. Whereas the previous movement’s three-quarter plate featured a vertical finish, Nomos has instead implemented a sunray pattern radiating outwards from its proprietary swing system. Complemented by blued screws, it’s a wonderful example of accessible in-house watchmaking, made even better by the technical improvements, even if the original was already good enough.
Initial Thoughts
Though I’m a self-professed lover of maximalist watchmaking, there’s just something so satisfying about how Nomos approaches the Bauhaus aesthetic. More than just a gimmick, the German brand is measured in its approach to adventurous design, preserving its minimalist principles in a way that keeps it wholly unique. This is easier said than done, as Nomos has established its brand identity by doing more with a whole lot less.
But that’s not to say the brand does less everywhere, as the Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue proves. This could have been a run-of-the-mill colour change, but Nomos has also elected to introduce a completely new in-house movement alongside it. The update isn’t glamorous or filled with smoke and mirrors, but it doesn’t take long to realise just how significant it is. In that sense, this might be the most Nomos way to introduce its latest technical innovations: little fanfare, maximum appeal.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 1121 1121.SB (Closed Back) |
| Dimensions | 37mm case diameter x 43.6mm lug-to-lug x 8mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel |
| Dial | Ice blue with teal accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire Closed (Closed Back) |
| Movement | Manual wind Cal. DUW 4701 with power reserve indicator, small seconds, & date complications |
| Power Reserve | 52h |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz / 21,600VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black leather strap with steel pin buckle |