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Furthering their connection to military-spec horology, Bremont has unveiled a new capsule of three watches in collaboration with the UK’s Ministry of Defence.

Over the last few years, British watchmaker Bremont has been known to wear a diverse number of hats. From its ties to the aviation world through Antoine Bremont to its ventures on the silver screen with Kingsman and Argylle, the brand has made a name for itself as the United Kingdom’s pre-eminent leader in the watch space.

One arena in which it has maintained a proud reputation, however, is its military contributions. Since 2019, Bremont has had the go-ahead to produce watches bearing the signs, symbols, and insignia of the United Kingdom’s Ministry of Defence. This comprises Britain’s three main armed services: the Royal Navy, the British Army, and the Royal Air Force.

And what better way to commemorate such a privilege than with a trio of watches appropriate for their rugged specs across land, sea, and air? Bremont has thus constructed another capsule collection celebrating His Majesty’s Armed Forces, with limited editions of the Terra Nova, Supermarine, and Altitude collections. Each provides their own meticulous details, and none are remotely similar from one another. Let’s break them down, one at a time.

Be The Best

The first of the three watches in the capsule is the brand’s signature Terra Nova line. Made in dedication to the British Army, it’s rather fitting for the boots-on-the-ground nature of this rugged sports watch. Though it’s built to be tough with 100m water resistance, the case dimensions are relatively elegant: 40.5mm in diameter, 47.7mm lug-to-lug, and 11.11mm in thickness. The hybrid cushion/barrel case profile also allows the watch to sit close and unobtrusively on the wrist, with strap options in either brown leather or a standard steel bracelet.

What’s particularly interesting about this version of the Terra Nova is its California dial. Created during World War II, the California dial was used to ensure a watch’s legibility in disorienting conditions. Because the Roman numerals in the upper half and Arabic numerals in the lower half are highly distinguishable from one another, it made it harder for soldiers to misread the time underwater, in combat, or in low-light conditions.

Applied in beige-coloured lume, the numerals sit above a sunray-brushed brown dial alongside the official logo of the British Army. Personally, I think its implementation is a nice touch, as it recalls a unique piece of military history that feels thematic to the nature of the watch. I hope Bremont continues to use this kind of configuration again in the standard collection someday.

Within the watch beats Bremont’s Calibre BB54AH, which is the brand’s modified rendition of the Sellita SW200-1 architecture. Beating at a standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 41-hour power reserve, it’s a reliable base movement that serves as a capable companion to the Terra Nova HMAF.

Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

For the Royal Navy, Bremont has revisited its longest-serving watch since its rebrand and given it a complete makeover. The Supermarine collection, which has been in continuous development since 2009, remains the brand’s premier dive watch offering.

Measuring 40mm wide, 49mm long, and 12mm thick, this version of the Supermarine pays tribute to the Royal Navy in a different way. Where the Terra Nova referenced a piece of horological history tied to wartime use, the Supermarine instead leans on colour and texture. A matte-finished stainless steel case evokes the look of maritime warships and naval vessels, and is paired with a grey ceramic bezel.

It’s a fascinating addition, given the brand’s usual reliance on steel and aluminium bezel inserts, though not entirely out of character when you consider the full ceramic Supermarine models released a few years ago. Accompanying the matte case and bezel is a grey fumé dial, complete with orange accents and generously lumed indices, along with the Royal Navy logo at six o’clock.

The strap choice is where things become slightly confusing. Despite the watch being rated to 300m of water resistance, it comes on a leather strap rather than steel or rubber. Perhaps this is intended to match the muted tones of the case and bezel, but it does feel somewhat conflicted in execution. It would be good to see Bremont offer rubber options for watches of this calibre in future, although this piece does seem intended to balance commemorative intent with functional design.

Finally, behind the closed, engraved caseback of the Supermarine beats the Cal. BB64AH, also based on Sellita architecture. Unlike the Terra Nova, however, this movement is built on the SW300-1A base, extending the power reserve from 41 to 56 hours.

Per Ardua Ad Astra

The third watch in the HMAF capsule is a new Altitude 39, dedicated to the Royal Air Force. In terms of Bremont collaborations, this one almost feels like double dipping, considering the RAF recently received its own standalone tribute in the Air Force Blue capsule. However, those watches do not feature the official insignia, so this new edition remains distinct in its own right.

Measuring an unsurprisingly compact 39mm in diameter, and water resistant to 100m, the Altitude 39 HMAF is perhaps the most versatile of the three watches in this release. This is reinforced by an equally restrained 47.17mm lug-to-lug and 11.19mm thickness, resulting in a robust yet universally wearable profile on its brown leather strap.

Of the three watches in the capsule, this one arguably has the most distinctive case design, crafted from stainless steel and coated in Cerakote Midnight Bronze. A premium thin-film ceramic-polymer coating, Cerakote is used across industries ranging from automotive to firearms to enhance impact and scratch resistance. That seems particularly appropriate for the Altitude collection, especially if its wearers are expected to be strapped into a Eurofighter Typhoon FGR4 screaming at Mach 2.

The galvanic black dial, along with beige striping on the date and the “ripcord” seconds hand, once again pays tribute to Martin-Baker, the ejection seat manufacturer and long-time Bremont collaborator. It is also the only watch in the capsule to feature an open caseback, allowing a view of the Cal. BB14-AH at work.

Based on the La Joux-Perret G100, this 4Hz movement offers an impressive 68-hour power reserve and represents perhaps the most modern calibre in the entire collection. I’ve previously spoken about my appreciation for the Altitude line in the Air Force Blue capsule, and everything I said there still holds true here.

Initial Thoughts

Bremont has really spoiled us for choice this year with all its new models. The British brand has set its sights on conquering all frontiers, even the final frontier of space, as part of its broader rebranding. However, watches like these show it has clearly not forgotten its past achievements, especially when they are intertwined with a distinctly British twist.

The new Terra Nova, Supermarine, and Altitude models in the HMAF capsule underscore Bremont’s commitment to its roots, elevating its designs in a way that extends far beyond their commemorative nature. While these military commissions are usually bespoke, it’s great to see them offered to the general public, whether for those who wish to celebrate British military heritage or simply those drawn to a well-executed limited-edition Bremont release.

With three options on the table, it may be difficult to choose. But then again, why not go for all of them with the box sets on offer as well?

References & Specifications

Australian Retail Price: $4,950 (Leather) / $5,400 (Bracelet)

Australian Retail Price: $6,900

Australian Retail Price: $7,900 (Watch) / $20,900 (Box set)

Availability (All): Limited to 300 pieces per model, 50 for the box set. Available at Bremont & Hardy Brothers boutiques or online at Bremont.com