The $20k Watch Challenge. We set the Watch Advice team the task of building a collection with A$20,000. What did each of them pick? Read on to find out…
The world of watchmaking is vast, with so many brands, from mainstream to independent, producing great watches. This presents us consumers with a lot of options, but it can also make things overwhelming. With so many choices on offer, how do you know you’re making the right choice? Honestly, though, there is no right or wrong answer, as a watch that one person likes may not be the right choice for someone else. But that is the beauty of watch collecting. If everyone’s choices were all too similar, this hobby would become boring quite quickly.
And with this in mind, we thought what better way to showcase our own individual opinions at Watch Advice than through a sort of “buying” guide of our own. It seems to be the perfect scenario, as instead of being tied down to a specific category, whether that be divers, dress watches, sports watches, or something else, we have more freedom to choose. This also allows us to showcase more of our personality through the collections.
So, if given AUD $20,000 to spend on a watch collection, what would you buy? That was the question posed to each of the Watch Advice team members in this $20k watch challenge. The aim wasn’t necessarily to find the “perfect” collection, but rather to see how each person would approach the challenge differently. The result is a fun look into how personal watch collecting really can be when everyone is working with the same budget, but very different tastes.
Sameera’s Choices
A budget of AUD $20,000 may seem like a lot, but it can dwindle quite quickly. It all depends on the type of collection you want to build. Do you want a single timepiece that you can use as an all-rounder? Or a more extensive collection that gives you a bit more freedom and versatility? I went with the latter option because this way, I won’t get bored with the collection, and will also be able to add a bit of variety for different occasions. I initially wanted a three-watch collection: one for daily wear, covering work, errands, and everything in between, one for formal occasions, and a traveller’s timepiece. But even with my three choices for the 20K Watch Challenge, I found I still had a bit of cash left over, so I decided to spend it on something a bit more unique!
New Longines HydroConquest
Longines’ latest HydroConquest has been a big hit, and it’s quite easy to see why (read Mario’s in-depth review here!). Presented in two different case sizes, 42mm and 39mm, it offers a lot of versatility, but that’s just a small detail in a watch that already packs quite a punch. This is a true dive watch, with stunning aesthetics that make it perfect for daily wear as well, further attesting to the watch’s versatility.
The watch comes in two bracelet options: either a 3-link bracelet or the Milanese bracelet. While the 3-link bracelet offers a more traditional dive watch aesthetic, I think you would be crazy not to go for the Milanese option, as the watch just looks amazing on the wrist. The collection also has five different styles, with a sixth option being the 2026 Commonwealth Games edition, offering a variety of choices to suit different tastes. My personal choice is the black dial with blue bezel, which offers rich contrast through the colours, with the Milanese bracelet completing a refined, polished, and well-thought-out look.
Even with all these design cues considered, what really sets this watch apart is its price point. Sitting at AUD $3,550, you would be very hard-pressed to find a timepiece with this much capability at the price it’s being offered at.
Reference: l37884906
Price: AUD $3,550
For more information: Longines.com
Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph
This is one that had to make the cut in the $20k watch challenge. When Raymond Weil first released the Millesime collection, it was an instant hit, even going on to win the prestigious GPHG Challenge Watch Prize in 2023. And why wouldn’t it? The line is heavily inspired by vintage design cues, from the case design to the sector-style dial layout, all neatly wrapped in one elegant package. Being a fan of timepieces with vintage design codes, I was drawn to this collection immediately. But I must digress, I didn’t pull the trigger straight away, as I was waiting for the right colour scheme.
Then last year, during Watches & Wonders 2025, Raymond Weil dropped a fresh new take on the Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph, and this time, it turned heads in a big way! This was the first time that the Tri-Compax model was presented in a rose gold PVD-coated case. This material choice took an already award-winning design and enhanced it even further. It was safe to say this was what I had been waiting for. After writing the press release for the Watches & Wonders unveiling, I asked to have it in for review. I think I had it for a total of 30 minutes before putting my name down for one!
Reference: 7765-PC5-20631
Price: AUD $6,995
For more information: Raymond-Weil.com
TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin-Time
With the Longines HydroConquest and Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph totalling AUD $10,545, that leaves me with AUD $9,455 to spend on a GMT in the $20k watch challenge. The third watch I need has to be a GMT. I love to travel, and with more frequent work trips happening as well, it would be helpful to have a GMT on the wrist. There are many complications in the world of watchmaking, and personally, I think the GMT is one of the most useful. It takes fewer steps than using your phone to tell the time in a second time zone.
For AUD $9,500, there are quite a few luxury GMTs available. Tudor’s Black Bay 58 GMT is one that comes to mind straight away, along with the Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT and Breitling’s Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. However, I went for an option that I personally had the chance to wear around and loved: the TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin-Time. This is a watch that is simplistic in its design, but has been executed beautifully with a teal-coloured sunburst dial, along with a matching teal and white 24-hour scale bezel, which also acts as a day and night indicator.
The great part about it as well is that it’s only AUD $7,750, which leaves me with AUD $1,705 to spend on something smaller if I wish to! And, well, with no money left on the table, that’s exactly what I’m doing!
Reference: WDA2114.BA0043
Price: AUD $7,750
For more information: TAGHeuer.com
Venezianico Arsenale Calendario
Now, for AUD $1,705, there are quite a lot of options in the entry-level and microbrand categories. Venezianico is one brand that has made huge strides in the last few years. I have been keeping a close eye on them, and honestly, they have grown as a brand immensely, not only through the amazing dials but also the overall execution of the timepieces. While their pricing is in euros, there are quite a few models in their lineup that land under AUD $1,500, leaving a bit of room for shipping and insurance.
One of Venezianico’s more recent offerings is the Arsenale Calendario (6221581C). When I first saw this timepiece, I was impressed by how well it was executed. I even showed our microbrand expert, Mario, and even he agreed on how much depth there was to this timepiece! It features an automatic calendar, a day and night display that is fully shown through a transparent sapphire crescent, a power reserve indicator, and also a separate date indicator.
The Arsenale Calendario is offered in two colour choices: blue with a sunburst finish or a cherry red dial with the same finish. Honestly, I love blue, but the cherry dial is too stunning not to consider. Combine this with a bezel that features both knurled and polished surfaces, an architectural case with a sharp design, and an integrated bracelet, and this watch packs a huge punch for approximately AUD $1,600 (€984). With Venezianico including free shipping, it fits under budget, too – $20k Watch Challenge complete!
Reference: 6221581C
Price: (Approx.) AUD $1,605 (€984)
For more information: Venezianico.com
Matt’s Choices
You might think that with a $20k Watch Challenge, it would be easy to choose, but with so many great watches out there under A$20,000, I really had to think hard about what I would buy. In my mind, I’m starting with no watches – a fresh start. I like to get out and keep active, so my watches need to fit that theme, but I also travel a bit and go to events, so I’m looking at a collection that ticks these boxes.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
Ok, so this is my top pick at A$13,890 and fills the “Good Watch” category for me. It talks to that part of me that loves to travel, being a pilot’s watch, but also, it is one you can dress up very easily for those more formal events without being a dress watch. At 43mm, it has a good wrist presence, but thanks to the Navitimer’s design, it is super easy to wear.
I’ve gone for the silver dial for this, and honestly, it was a hard choice between this, the ice blue dial, and the smaller 41mm with the dark sunray blue and black dial. While I love the ice blue, I think the silver is a more versatile choice, and the 41mm versions look on the smaller side with the way these wear on my 17.5cm wrist. Plus, the Navitimer is an icon, and has such a great history – plus I’m yet to own one. So for me, this is a perfect start in this $20k watch challenge.
Reference: AB0138241G1P1
Price: AUD $13,890
For more information: Breilting.com
Baume & Mercier Riviera 42mm
The Navitimer did take up a decent amount of the $20k Watch Challenge budget, and I’ve now A$6,110 left over. I’m a big fan of the three-watch collection (see my opinion piece here on the argument for a smaller collection), so I’ve got to be picky about the next two. For my next pick, I’ve chosen the Baume & Mercier Riviera automatic 42mm for A$4,450. A great versatile sports watch with some 1970s vibes and an integrated bracelet.
I was impressed by the Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT I reviewed a few years back. To be honest, I feel that Baume & Mercier has been the poor cousin in the Richemont stable, but now that they’re out, we’ll see how they fare with a new owner. That said, they punch above their weight in terms of quality and price, especially the Riviera. It wears super well thanks to the ~10.6mm thickness, and it comes with a quick-change mechanism so you can swap the bracelet for a rubber strap for a new look.
For me, the Riviera is a good everyday piece, as it won’t draw too much attention. It is a steel sports watch that goes with almost anything, it is comfortable to wear and has a robust Selitta-based movement inside, even though it may not have the largest power reserve, it’s a daily, so I’m not concerned.
Reference: 10621
Price: AUD $4,450
For more information: Baume-et-mercier.com
Seiko Prospex Diver SPB297J
This now leaves me with A$1,660 in the $20k Watch Challenge. Tough one. So, I’m going to default to good old Seiko, as let’s face it, Seiko has a massive range of watches at varying price points, and to suit different styles with something for everyone. So, I’ve chosen the Seiko Prospex Diver “Save The Oceans” Special Edition. Yes, it’s A$1,950, so A$290 over my $20k Watch Challenge budget, but I figure I can find some wiggle room on price on all the watches if I shop around.
What I love about the Seiko Prospex Diver is that it fills the weekend warrior watch gap, the one that I take out and about, play with the kids, or when I’m doing more adventure travelling and holidays to places that are more off the beaten path. At 40mm, 31.1mm thick and a reasonably short 47mm lug-to-lug, these wear beautifully, have a 70-hour power reserve and are 200m water resistant. Oh, and the blue ocean-inspired dial is the cherry on the cake!
Reference: SPB297J
Price: AUD $1,950
For more information: Seikoboutique.com.au
Mario’s Choices
If you know me, I’m a pretty left-field kind of guy. I love all sorts of watches that are weird and wacky, so you’re probably expecting me to throw out 20 or so microbrands and call it a day. But as much as I love my microbrands, I think only two watches will suffice within the $20k budget: one for the weekdays, the other for weekends.
So, with that being said, I’ve put together a two-watch collection that still leaves me with $541 in my pocket. Sure, these selections might seem a bit tamer than you’re used to from me, but I hope they still reflect my personal collecting philosophy: buy what you love and worry about everyone else later.
Serica Ref. 6190 California
I’ve waxed poetic about Serica for a long time, even before I visited their boutique last June. I’m not the biggest proponent of heritage-inspired watches, but the way the Parisian brand merges old-world style with new-world tech is something to behold. As I said in my article, it’s hard to pinpoint exactly which era they draw from most.
One watch that doesn’t have that problem is the Ref. 6190, more specifically the California dial variant. At a universally wearable 38mm wide, 46.5mm lug-to-lug, and 10.4mm thick, it’s a subtle and inoffensive watch that will serve as my weekday warrior.
I didn’t just choose Serica because I have stars in my eyes, though, as this watch is practical in every sense. The dial numerals, indexes, and hands are fully lumed, the water resistance is 200 metres, and the flexible Bonklip bracelet is infinitely micro-adjustable without the need for any theatrics. So, in any situation, the Serica should suit me well. Given the brand’s values of watches that “tell a story”, I won’t be afraid to pick up a few nicks and scars along the way.
Oh, and did I mention it’s also COSC chronometer-certified? Just another way the brand underscores its commitment to reliable watchmaking.
Reference: 6190 California
Price: AUD $1,809
For more information: Serica-Watches.com
Glashütte Original PanoReserve
Okay, so I also visited the Glashütte Original manufactory last June, so I understand if you think I’m pandering a little. Maybe I am, but in truth I’ve always picked them as a personal favourite like Serica. Beyond that, they’re also one of the best watch brands in an incredibly competitive German watch industry, as well as globally. I’ve yet to see many other brands offer the same level of price-to-quality ratio, and they seem to nail it every single time.
My selection from their catalogue is none other than the PanoReserve. The design of the watch is almost entirely unique within the industry, shared only by their next-door neighbours at A. Lange & Söhne. However, while the Lange 1 is made exclusively in precious metals, the PanoReserve is offered in familiar stainless steel.
And while I’d love to own a gold watch at some point in my life, no one should discount the capabilities of good old stainless steel. Sized at 40mm wide and 11.7mm thick, the PanoReserve wears like an absolute dream – and functions like one too. The Panorama Date window, asymmetric display, and stunning movement all come together to create an incredible package that will dominate the events of the weekend, as long as I’m not partying too hard. That’s what the Serica’s for.