Though it’s not as flamboyant as other models, Richard Mille’s new RM 55-01 showcases the fundamentals of their hyper-sport horology.
It’s no mystery that Richard Mille timepieces are among the most decadent watches money can buy. Founded by the eponymous Richard Mille in 2001, the independent brand has established itself at the peak of haute horlogerie through its approach to watchmaking. Distinctive for their tonneau cases, groundbreaking materials, and delightfully over-engineered mechanics, Richard Mille’s image is one of excellence to some, and excess to others.
If you’re on the outside of the Richard Mille bubble, it’s understandable if you consider them excessive; the brand’s target audience ranges from stars to sheikhs, after all. But even if you strip away the superfluous aesthetics, the branding, and prestige, you’ll still find that every Richard Mille is, at its core, a technical masterpiece.
That’s what the brand seems to convey with the new RM 55-01 collection. The trio of new watches, in direct opposition to the brand’s stereotypes, pares things back to their bare essentials. Despite this, it still presents itself as a serious work of horology that is unmistakably Richard Mille.
Light As A Feather
Like almost all models that came before it, Richard Mille’s new RM 55-01 comes in a tonneau (barrel)-shaped case. Sized at 37.95 mm in width, 47.33 mm in length, and 10.75 mm in thickness, it’s fairly modest in comparison to the brand’s catalogue. Though tonneau watches often wear larger than their rectangular or round counterparts, the case has been engineered to elegantly curve along the wrist, moulding to the wearer.
While the middle case remains in classic titanium, the RM 55-01’s bezel and caseback are crafted in white quartz, grey quartz, or black carbon TPT composites. Short for Thin Ply Technology, the carbon fibre or quartz silica strands are layered in ultra-thin sheets, about 10 to 15 times thinner than a human hair, then bound together with resin and compacted under heat and pressure.
With potential use in spacefaring materials, Richard Mille uses TPT in the RM 55-01 with the help of North Thin Ply, a long-time Swiss collaborator. The result is an ultra-light bezel and caseback, with very little compromise on strength and toughness. The striations of the layering can also be seen in the finished product, which differs with every case. Paired with a colour-matched folding strap, the RM 55-01 collection is built to function as a seamless, organic extension of the wearer.
Keep It Simple
The uniqueness of the quartz and carbon TPT also bleeds into the design language of the RM 55-01. Though it is distinctive in its own right, the new collection leans more on subtraction than addition. Like most Richard Mille watches, however, the RM 55-01 is defined by its openworked, skeletonised dial. Despite being just shy of 11 mm thick, there is a depth to the skeletonisation; the thin bridges at six, eight, and ten o’clock give the impression that the movement is suspended in mid-air.
Primarily coloured black, the dial’s only “closed” element is the white printed minute track, alongside plots of lume for each index. In the grey quartz TPT reference, the lume is marked in red instead of white across both the indices and hands. It’s an interesting choice against the grey, slightly bluish tone of that particular reference, but one that adds character without leaning fantastical.
Skeletons In The Closet
Like any skeleton dial, though, the star of the show is the movement. Here, Richard Mille has crafted the Calibre RMUL4, with UL standing for “Ultra-Light.” No prizes for guessing why. As the name suggests, this is not the first movement with the “Ultra-Light” designation.
The Calibre RMUL2, found in the RM 55, was created for pro golfer Bubba Watson, while the Calibre RMUL3 appeared in one of many watches built for tennis legend Rafael Nadal. Several pundits point to the RM 55 Bubba Watson as the lineal ancestor of the RM 55-01; once again, no prizes for guessing why.
In any case, the Calibre RMUL4 is a manual-wind movement, contributing to both thinness and weight reduction. Beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 55-hour power reserve, it’s one of Richard Mille’s more restrained movements. Stripped down to the essentials, it has been finished with Titalyt and black PVD for a minimalist yet bold presentation.
While skeletonised movements are often perceived as delicate, Richard Mille goes the extra mile to prove otherwise. Not only are the bridges already made from grade 5 titanium, but the Titalyt treatment significantly increases resistance to corrosion and wear. With such impressive resistance to shock, wear, and corrosion, the RM 55-01’s lightweight structure belies its true strength.
Initial Thoughts
I know I say this with a lot of watch brands, but it’s always fun covering a Richard Mille release. It gives me the same feeling I had unpacking those DIY science projects as a kid, where I’d learn about the concepts as I went along. Richard Mille, along with a chosen few like Greubel Forsey or MB&F, often have me researching concepts in scientific articles more than watch-related media.
While some of it is difficult to make sense of, I try my best to break it down in simple terms for all of us, myself included, to understand. It’s a double-edged sword as a watch nerd, but never not fulfilling. My feelings aside, the RM 55-01 is yet another compelling addition to the Richard Mille lineup.
It’s not as decadent (some would say garish) as other Richard Mille watches, and distils the brand into possibly its purest form yet. While I don’t think the RM 55-01 is going to be any more or less accessible to us, it’s still nice to know that something like this exists, and it proves that even a brand as flamboyant as Richard Mille can still produce incredibly pure forms of watchmaking. Well, with a modern twist, of course.
Reference: RM 55-01 (Carbon / White / Grey Quartz TPT)
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 37.95mm case diameter x 47.33mm lug-to-lug x 10.75mm thickness |
| Case | Carbon black / white / grey quartz TPT (Thin Ply Technology) & titanium |
| Dial | Openworked skeleton with black accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Manual wind Cal. RMUL4 |
| Power Reserve | 55h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Colour-matched textile with folding clasp |