The French fashion house is back at it again with a new version of their Monsieur de Chanel collection, this time in all-black with a flying tourbillon.
Though Chanel is a name infamous in the luxury world beyond horology, it has still managed to make a significant mark in the watch space. Not only has it purchased stakes in the likes of Kenissi, F.P. Journe, and MB&F, but since the late ’80s the Parisian fashion house has refined its own series of timepieces.
Distinctive for their ceramic construction and unisex appeal, Chanel did not create a men’s timepiece until 2016. The launch of the Monsieur de Chanel unveiled an entirely new chapter for the brand, not just in its bolder, more masculine-leaning aesthetic, but in introducing Chanel’s first in-house movement.
For the better part of a decade, Chanel’s watch division has sought new and innovative ways to merge the technical rigours of watchmaking with its distinct brand identity. In 2023, this resulted in the Monsieur Lion Tourbillon, complete with a meteorite dial and a flying tourbillon. For Watches & Wonders 2026, the fashion house revisits the emblematic release in a new all-black offering.
A Wearing Experience En Vogue
The new Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon is housed in a 42mm case crafted from matte black, highly resistant ceramic, paired with black-coated steel elements, including the bezel, crown and caseback. Ceramic has long been a major part of Chanel’s catalogue and has been refined by the brand for enhanced durability, scratch resistance and sheen. Unlike polished surfaces that reflect light, the matte black construction absorbs it, creating a sense of depth and understated power. Additionally, the use of ceramic lightens the overall wearing experience, allowing for a bold aesthetic without the bulk associated with steel.
In terms of wearability, the Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition strikes a careful balance between sport-casual and stealth wealth. It is presented on a black nylon strap with black calfskin trim and lining, secured by a black DLC steel butterfly clasp. The combination of lightweight ceramic and a flexible strap ensures comfort and adaptability, while 30 metres of water resistance protects it from the occasional rainy day.
Strike A Pose
The Monsieur de Chanel line follows the concept of “extreme circularity” in its designs. The Monsieur Lion Tourbillon is no different, with every aspect of its visual architecture embracing geometry as its defining language. The openworked black dial features a series of cut-outs, most of them circular, revealing glimpses of the gear train and the flying tourbillon beneath.
Two intersecting rings form an inverted figure-eight layout: the larger upper ring displays the hours and minutes, while the smaller lower ring is dedicated to the tourbillon seconds. In a touch of design consistency, the typography used on the minute track of the displaced dial matches the rest of the collection.
At 6 o’clock, the flying tourbillon is housed within a transparent circular aperture composed of concentric matte black rings. The outer ring serves as a seconds track, while the inner ring rotates in sync with the 60-second tourbillon, marked by a subtle pointer. At the centre of the tourbillon sits a meticulously crafted lion’s head, laser-engraved in titanium. This feature is particularly symbolic, as Coco Chanel was born under the star sign of Leo, with lions often inspiring her work. Rotating with the tourbillon cage, the lion becomes both the visual centrepiece and a symbolic guardian of the movement.
A Fashionable Movement
Though the Calibre 5.1 can be seen through the openworked dial, turning the watch around reveals further detail via an open caseback. The manual-wind movement was developed and assembled by the Chanel Watch Manufacture, operating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) and delivering an approximate 72-hour power reserve thanks to its double-barrel architecture. The movement builds upon the foundation of the original Monsieur calibres, enhanced here with the addition of a flying tourbillon and a redesigned display for traditional hours and minutes.
What’s particularly interesting about the Calibre 5.1 is that it mirrors the design language of the dial, with sweeping circular bridges and an anthracite finish echoing the watch’s geometry. The finishing is executed to a high standard, with brushed and grained surfaces complemented by chamfered edges and carefully detailed wheel spokes. Even within the movement, Chanel’s emblematic lion appears once more, subtly integrated just left of the escapement. All in all, the Calibre 5.1 is not only technically accomplished but also aesthetically cohesive, reinforcing the watch’s overall identity as a Chanel piece.
Initial Thoughts
For as extravagant as Chanel’s achievements are in haute couture, it can be relatively quiet about its horological efforts. It may not be the brand’s primary focus, but the lengths it goes to in pursuit of remarkable watchmaking deserve recognition beyond the wayward enthusiast or high-rolling client.
With the release of the Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon, the fashion powerhouse expresses not only its watchmaking capability but its maturity within the industry. Nearly three decades after entering the space, it, along with a select few other fashion houses, has come remarkably far in the watch world. This release may slip into the shadows, not least because of its all-black construction, yet it deserves its time in the sun alongside the rest of Chanel’s roster.
Reference: DBEX1178
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 42mm case diameter |
| Case | Matte black ceramic & black DLC steel |
| Dial | Semi-openworked black with grey accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 5.1 with flying tourbillon complication |
| Power Reserve | 72h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m /3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black nylon/calfskin leather strap with black DLC butterfly clasp and buckle |