Flexibility meets geometry as Bvlgari debuts the Tubogas Stud line! Available in four distinct variants, each showcases the iconic ‘Clou’ stud.
If there was ever a watch line that has had more pull on my heartthan it had any right to, it has to be the Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas collection. Introduced in the 1940s, the Italian brand captured imaginations with the first Serpenti timepieces, but it wasn’t until the 1970s that it truly came into its own. That decade marked the introduction of the Tubogas line, which involved the precise winding of metal bands without the use of soldering. Since then, the design has taken off and become one of their most enduring collections.
For Watches and Wonders 2026, Bvlgari has released a set of four new Tubogas timepieces that merge its three major design languages: the serpent, organic ergonomics, and geometry. Enriched by the careful use of natural dials, precious gold and those ever-important sparkling diamonds, the Tubogas Studs capsule neatly encapsulates the brand’s creative intent.
A Literal Flex
With all four pieces measuring 35mm in case diameter, you wouldn’t be remiss to say that these watches are built with women in mind. And to that, I say: ye of little faith, and likely of larger wrist. While they lean more feminine, I’ve had hands-on time with one of these incredible pieces. Safe to say, then, that if you’re a guy and a watch nerd like me, wrapping yourself in gold and jewels is great, no matter the watch.
And when I say wrap, I do mean it literally. If you’re unfamiliar, the Tubogas Studs capsule follows in the footsteps of the rest of the line. Using a specialised, flexible metal bracelet, and no extra components, the watch is able to stretch and wrap around the wrist and forearm of the wearer. Both short and long versions of the bracelet are available, at 135mm and 145mm respectively, but don’t expect these watches to wear loosely. They don’t have a clasp, after all.
Stones Rock
Among the four references are three case variations. The first, and simplest, comprises steel, with five ‘clou’ studs decorating the bracelet. Traditionally seen in bracelets and necklaces, the stud now finds new life within the Tubogas bracelet. The geometric, pyramidal facets punctuate the fluidity of the serpent’s body, creating a dynamic interplay between softness and structure.
‘Clou’ may even sound familiar to watch nerds, as it is the same form from which the popular Clous de Paris guilloché pattern is derived. Given Bvlgari’s penchant for geometric shapes in other collections, such as the Octo, it represents a holistic merging of the brand’s design language.
The other two variations are a two-tone rose gold and steel construction, with matching clou studs set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.6ct), as well as a full 18k yellow gold version with the same stud configuration. All watches also feature a bezel set with 35 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.3 carats, and are finished with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite crown.
The Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas Studs capsule comes with four distinct dials. All are naturally occurring, which means no two will ever be exactly the same. Regardless, each stands on its own merits. One steel variant comes in white mother-of-pearl, offering an iridescent softness contrasted by the polished gold studs.
Alternatively, the malachite dial, with its striking green veining, is perhaps the most eye-catching of the four. Meanwhile, the other two lean more into individual identity. The two-tone rose gold variation uses a deep purplish-blue stone called sodalite, its rich tones accentuated by alternating rose gold and steel elements along the bracelet. Finally, the full gold rendition uses a deep red carnelian, enhancing the warmth of the 18k yellow gold case.
Initial Thoughts
Powered by quartz movements, the Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas Studs capsule isn’t about to smash any records, leave that to their newest Octo Finissimo. Yet it remains evocative of the artistry that the Italian brand is capable of. Trust us, we’ve been privileged enough to see all of it for ourselves.
While the focus of the Serpenti Tubogas Studs capsule lies firmly in its design, it continues to uphold the standards expected of Bvlgari’s aesthetic. These four new limited editions not only merge the three core languages that underpin their craftsmanship, but balance them with impressive restraint.
No component feels more overpowering than another, which is no small feat when working with some of the most luxurious materials in the world. In doing so, Bvlgari’s latest additions to the Serpenti line demonstrate how the brand continues to elevate its iconic codes without losing its identity. Here, every detail, whether aesthetic or functional, contributes to a cohesive and compelling whole.
References: 104301/104347 (Mother-of-Pearl) / 104302 (Carnelian) / 104340/104346 (Sodalite) / 104360/104361(Malachite)
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 35mm case diameter |
| Case | Two-Tone stainless steel & 18k yellow OR rose gold with cabochon-cut pink rubellite (Mother-of-Pearl/Sodalite/Malachite) 18k yellow gold with cabochon-cut pink rubellite (Carnelian) Bezel set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.3ct (All) |
| Dial | White mother-of-pearl / Red Carnelian / Purple Sodalite / Green Malachite stone with yellow OR rose gold accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Closed |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Steel Serpenti bracelet with five yellow gold ‘Clou’ studs (Mother-of-Pearl/Malachite) Two-Tone steel and rose gold Serpenti bracelet with five rose gold ‘Clou’ studs paved with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.6ct (Sodalite) 18k yellow gold Serpenti bracelet with five yellow gold ‘Clou’ studs paved with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.6ct (Carnelian) Bracelet Lengths Available: 135mm (Mother-of-Pearl/Malachite/Sodalite) / 145mm (All) |