For thirty years, Chopard has been creating incredible watches in their Fleurier Manufacture. To celebrate, their latest watch pays tribute to the Areuse River.
As one of the oldest names in the game, jeweller-watchmaker Chopard has seen a laundry list of incredible milestones. From its founding in 1860 to its dedication to ethical manufacturing, the independent brand has become a force of nature in both industries. Of course, we at Watch Advice love to focus on its horological capabilities, but the two often intertwine.
Jewellery, like watchmaking, is a fine art, one that takes countless hours of patience, dedication and, most importantly, a pair of steady hands. This could not be any truer than in its incredible L.U.C. line.
Debuting in the late ’90s, the L.U.C. (Louis-Ulysse Chopard) collection was the brand’s first foray into in-house watchmaking. However, to create what would become a legendary staple in its collection required a new, cutting-edge manufacture. Thus, in 1996, Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture was founded, a veritable playground for the brand’s mechanical wonders.
With 2026 signalling three decades of work at the Manufacture, Chopard has unveiled a celebratory piece at Watches and Wonders 2026. Hot off the heels of an earlier tribute, the L.U.C. Grand Strike, this new 1860 model is comparatively low-key. Despite this, it is no less heartfelt or passionate, as it has been outfitted with an all-new dial in “Aureuse Blue”.
Diminutive Yet Dominant
With the release of the first modern L.U.C. 1860 in 2023, it is about time the salmon-dial sensation had a friend. Given the success of the original, Chopard saw no need to change the formula. The dimensions of the Aureuse Blue variation are one-to-one: 36.5mm in case diameter, 44.5mm lug-to-lug, and a delightfully slim 8.2mm thick.
Like its predecessor, the watch has been encased in Chopard’s Lucent Steel, offering a thoughtful interplay of vertical satin-brushed surfaces and polished elements. Unlike regular stainless steel, Lucent Steel reflects Chopard’s dedication to ethical watchmaking.
Composed primarily of high-quality industrial waste, the eco-friendly material has also been noted for its surprising durability and lustre over standard 316L. Beyond its universally wearable dimensions, the watch is also built for long-term comfort. A grey grained calfskin strap accompanies the watch, alongside a pin buckle also made of Lucent Steel.
A Cut Above The Rest
As a sucker for a good dress watch, the L.U.C. roster is among my favourites in the genre. This is largely due to Chopard’s remarkable commitment to design, as shown by the dial of this new L.U.C. 1860. A satin-brushed chapter ring frames everything, while polished white gold rhomboid hour markers are faceted to complement the Dauphine hands.
The inner core of the watch is finished with a sunburst guilloché pattern, radiating out from the logo and executed completely by hand. On the small seconds subdial, a snailing pattern also appears, though not as complex as the central sector. However, it adds an additional sense of visual intrigue.
Naturally, the primary focus here is the new dial colour. Once only available in salmon, the L.U.C. 1860 now comes in Aureuse Blue. Inspired by the Areuse River that flows near the Fleurier manufacture, it is responsible for its ever-changing colours and dramatic surrounds. Applied atop a layer of 18k white gold, the blue works in conjunction with the dial material and finishing to evoke the same hypnotic light play.
L.U.C.’s Legendary Lineage
At the heart of the watch lies the L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L, a direct descendant of the L.U.C 96.01-L developed by the manufacture thirty years ago. With a 65-hour power reserve and the luxury-standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate, the Cal. 96.40-L sports several features that show Chopard’s dedication to the craft.
First, it is an automatic micro-rotor movement, similar to the first in-house movement made in Fleurier, equipped with a 22k ethical rose gold rotor. Second, Chopard’s Twin Technology stacks two barrels atop one another to achieve a longer power reserve despite being just 3.3mm thick. Finally, the watch carries two prestigious certifications: the COSC Chronometer, denoting its accuracy, and the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal.
Now, for watch nerds (and geography geeks), that might be a bit confusing. How can it receive the Geneva Seal if the watch was not produced there? Chopard uses both a Geneva and a Fleurier manufacture to split production. The raw L.U.C. components are manufactured in Fleurier, while the most important aspects, construction, assembly and adjustment, are all completed in Geneva. It is a challenge for any watch to garner such a prestigious commendation, let alone one in stainless steel, but Chopard’s L.U.C. 1860 in Aureuse Blue clears every hurdle.
Initial Thoughts
As I said, a good dress watch is incredible to behold, but its place within this modern, dynamic industry has been tenuous at best. Matt and I have discussed this issue at length across several articles. It is like a strong oud fragrance or a three-star Michelin meal; sometimes, a dress watch can be a bit much. But on those privileged days that call for a fancy dinner or a black-tie event, no genre of watch does it better.
And while I am not one to attend red carpets or jet off to Monte Carlo every second week, the importance of a dress watch during those times should not be underestimated. The Chopard L.U.C. 1860 in Aureuse Blue, while an acquired taste, is also an exacting one. It reflects class, passion and an unflinching sense of the brand’s place in the industry. And should you wear it right, it will do the same for you too.
Reference: 168860-3005
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 36.5mm case diameter x 44.5mm lug-to-lug x 8.2mm thickness |
| Case | Lucent Steel (repurposed, high-quality industrial stainless steel) |
| Dial | White gold with “Areuse Blue” and sunburst hand-guilloché |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic micro-rotor L.U.C 96.40-L with small seconds complication, COSC Chronometer & Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) certifications |
| Power Reserve | 65h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Grey grained calfskin leather strap with Lucent Steel pin buckle |