French watchmakers Bell & Ross have taken to the skies once again with the daring aerobatics unit, Patrouille de France, with a brand new take on the BR-X3.
In the watch world, the very best timepieces are made with intent. There are watches built to tackle specific conditions, whether they be a black-tie gala, the depths of the ocean, perilous terrain, or even the vacuum of space. For the Franco-Swiss watch brand Bell & Ross, that intent couldn’t have been clearer from the start.
Founded by Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, the brand quickly became known for its dedication to aviation design. From the outset, every watch was deeply inspired by flight instruments and navigation tools, a philosophy that has persisted to this day. While many Bell & Ross watches still look as if they’ve been lifted directly from an aircraft cockpit, the delightfully odd square case has since become a canvas for creative innovation.
One of the latest modern iterations of that silhouette is the BR-X3, introduced last year. The collection uses several design elements that bridge the gap between the brand’s tool-oriented roots and its more ambitious watches.
New to the catalogue this year is its latest partnership with Patrouille de France, the daring aerobatics division of the French Air and Space Force. Celebrating five years together, the timepiece combines the contemporary lines of the BR-X3’s construction with a touch of French aviation pride.
Flight Ready
Measuring 41mm in case diameter with a thickness of 13.3mm, the Bell & Ross BR-X3 Patrouille de France is a sizeable yet wearable watch. Like most Bell & Ross pieces, this is helped in part by the stepped lug-to-lug design and flat case profile, which counteract the often larger silhouette of square watches.
The primary case material, stainless steel, needs no introduction, but the BR-X3 also introduces blue anodised aluminium. Decorating both the mid-case and stepped bezel, the aluminium segments the steel and adds further visual intrigue to the watch’s case. Water-resistant to 100 metres, the BR-X3 Patrouille de France is a sports watch through and through, ready to take on the ocean as much as the sky.
As always, wearability is surprisingly good for a watch as bold as a Bell & Ross. From personal experience, the rubber straps the brand uses are consistently comfortable, and this BR-X3 should be no different. It’s also been openworked to allow for maximum airflow, optimising ease of wear all year round. Should you tire of the all-black aesthetic, though, the brand also supplies the watch with a light blue fabric strap, matching the flight suits of the Patrouille de France.
French Flair
Speaking of the Patrouille de France, the watch has been appropriately decorated to showcase Bell & Ross’ longstanding partnership with the aerobatics team. The dial starts with a matte black backdrop, quickly broken apart by a mix of finishes and accents. The same “flight suit blue” persists throughout the dial, segmenting the BR-X3’s centre and orbiting its periphery.
The other major accent is white, highlighting both the power reserve indicator at nine o’clock and the enlarged date display at three. The former, with blue, white and red accents, mirrors the arrangement of the French flag, while the expanded date window helps preserve the dial’s sense of symmetry. At the centre of it all, the official logo of the Patrouille de France is emblazoned at six o’clock, adding the final touch to a thoroughly celebratory watch.
But amidst all the flair, Bell & Ross has ensured the design remains as practical as ever. The indexes are broad and rhodium-plated, standing in high contrast against the rest of the dial and covered in a generous application of lume.
A large Arabic numeral at 12 o’clock is also present, perfect for quick legibility regardless of orientation, while the hands have likewise been treated with plenty of lume. Perhaps my favourite, albeit smallest, detail is the white seconds hand, which has been given a pair of wings. It’s the final flourish on an already tribute-heavy timepiece, adding the kind of charm Bell & Ross has become known for.
Accuracy Over All
Turning the watch around, the open sapphire caseback reveals yet another tribute to the Patrouille de France. Don’t let it distract you for too long, though, as it partially obscures the remarkable movement within.
The Calibre BR-CAL.323, beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 70-hour power reserve, is the star of the show. Powering both the reserve indicator and date display complications, it’s a robust movement that also delivers COSC chronometer-certified accuracy.
What’s especially interesting here is Bell & Ross’ clear intent to level up mechanically. While much of its catalogue has historically relied on modified third-party base calibres, the brand has been refining its watchmaking credentials from the top down.
The BR-CAL.323 is exemplary of that effort, having been created in partnership with Kenissi. For added context, this is the same manufacturer trusted by Chanel and Tudor for many of their movements, which further underscores Bell & Ross’ commitment to every aspect of watchmaking.
Initial Thoughts
What is the most French watch you’ve ever seen? There are certainly a few top contenders. Cartier, for example, has found enduring success by preserving the French Art Deco aesthetic through the decades, while Pequignet continues to elevate itself as a fully France-based manufacture. Visually, however, Bell & Ross’ new BR-X3 Patrouille de France absolutely belongs in that conversation.
Informed by the brand’s distinctive philosophy and modern lines, the BR-X3 serves as the perfect canvas to commemorate its partnership with such a daring organisation. The Patrouille de France represents some of France’s finest aviators, and a symbol of French pride like that deserves a watch to match. In that respect, Bell & Ross has delivered once again, celebrating its partners in the Patrouille de France while continuing to innovate on its robust yet whimsical design language.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | BRX3R-PAF-ST/SRB |
| Dimensions | 41mm case diameter x 13.3mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel with blue anodised aluminium stepped bezel & midcase |
| Dial | Multi-layer black, white & blue with French flag (blue, white, red) accents & Patrouille de France logo |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. BR-CAL.323 with COSC Chronometer certification, date & power reserve indicator complications |
| Power Reserve | 70h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100m / 10bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black openworked rubber strap with steel pin buckle OR Complementary light blue fabric strap with steel pin buckle |