Expanding the Defy Revival line is the new A3643, but does it hold up to its peers? Well, let me tell you how it defied my expectations when I wore it early!
Among the many watch and jewellery brands within the LVMH umbrella, Zenith stands out as something of an oddity. Every other brand’s position within the conglomerate is well defined, but Zenith defies easy classification.
It is an apt description, given the watch I am about to discuss, but since their foundation in 1865, they have realised that number one is an odd number. In other words, while they have never commanded the same level of mass fanfare as some of their peers, they have consistently found themselves at the forefront of the industry.
And what watch line proves this better than the Zenith Defy? While people might know it today for its metropolitan, architectural looks, the Defy’s reputation was built on its ability to take an absolute beating. From being tossed out of buildings to being strapped to motorbikes, the Zenith Defy was, for want of a better term, the mechanical G-SHOCK before the G-SHOCK ever existed.
One such watch was the Ref. A3643, which Zenith has brought back from the archives for LVMH Watch Week 2026. Now part of the Defy Revival collection, it takes its place among its peers as an almost one-to-one recreation of the original – with a few contemporary upgrades, of course – and I was able to go hands-on with it!
In terms of specifics, not much has changed between the Revival A3643 and the wider Defy Revival collection. It wears to the same retro dimensions in stainless steel, with a 37mm case diameter, a 44.2mm lug-to-lug, and a thickness of 13.9mm.
On paper, it reads like a fairly unremarkable spec sheet. But in practice, the Defy Revival line’s dimensions are not the star of the show. Instead, it is the octagonal case shape paired with the unmistakable 14-sided bezel, a hallmark of the collection since 1969.
Another hallmark of the line is the iconic ladder bracelet, which returns on the Defy Revival A3643. Designed exclusively for the collection by Gay Frères, it is a lightweight, breathable, and undeniably sporty addition to the watch. Given the line’s reputation as a resilient GADA piece, it feels perfectly at home here.
It makes the watch wear comfortably, even for someone like me who runs hot. I am surprised I did not complain at length about the clasp again, given that it has become something of a morbid tradition with every Defy Revival I have reviewed. I do still think it could be improved, though.
Something I like about the Zenith Defy Revival line is how each unique design is referred to by its original reference number. It makes things both less confusing for the average buyer and more special for Zenith’s fervent fanbase. In this case, the Ref. A3643 stands out for its more traditional-looking indexes compared to its older siblings.
While it is almost a true-to-life recreation of the original, there is one major difference: the sunray-brushed silver dial, which forgoes the original stark white. With a small but welcome contrast in the form of an orange pip on the seconds hand, it is perhaps the most modern the Zenith Defy Revival has ever looked.
Being a contemporary refresh, it’s not just the design that’s been updated — the movement has, too. The Calibre Elite 670, Zenith’s high-quality standard automatic movement, serves as the mechanical heart of the new Zenith Defy Revival A3643. A faithful companion of Zenith’s three-hand lines since the 1990s, the Cal. Elite 670 beats at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800VpH) and offers a power reserve of 50 hours.
While some might lament the addition of the 4:30 date window, I think it works perfectly for a retro design, more so than on, for example, the Chronomaster Sport line.
Slightly tangentially, the Cal. Elite 670 is one of the few three-hand, non-GMT movements I’ve seen that allows the date wheel to be changed forwards and backwards. It’s a neat feature that more people should appreciate, as it drastically improves on a common annoyance of the date function — one that few realise can actually be fixed.
Final Thoughts
While Zenith’s reputation as the “odd one out” has allowed them to build a respectable base of dedicated enthusiasts, it comes at the expense of mainstream appeal. Admittedly, other LVMH brands like TAG Heuer and even Hublot are far more successful at capturing the wider audience. However, Zenith’s new Defy Revival A3643 is poised to grab the attention of those same enthusiasts, and here’s why.
Before the addition of the A3643, the Defy Revival line felt like too acquired a taste for the average enthusiast to really get into. However, the A3643’s design is, as I mentioned, the most modern of the collection. The sunray-brushed silver dial, replacing the matte white, was an inspired decision, offering a contemporary dazzle without detracting from the watch’s unique silhouette.
Additionally, the silver dial and orange-tipped seconds hand give it a versatility the collection has never seen before, allowing it to pair seamlessly with a wide variety of outfits. While I was wearing my performative male outfit of a white tucked tee with pleated pants, I would feel just as confident pairing it with the orange hoodie I used for the Defy Revival Diver review.
All in all, while the quirkiness of the Defy Revival line is endearing, I often feared that same quality would leave it behind compared to more modern-looking collections. But with the A3643, that perspective is beginning to shift. Modern watch lovers now have a clear entry point into the Defy Revival series.
It’s not exactly “try before you buy,” but more like “buy before you buy more.” In that sense, I wouldn’t be surprised to see more of this reference out in the wild — hopefully alongside its funkier contemporaries.
Reference: 03.A3642.670/01.M3642
Specifications
- Dimensions: 37mm case diameter x 44.2mm lug-to-lug x 13.9mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Sunray brushed silver with orange accent
- Movement: Automatic Cal. Elite 670 with date complication
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Water Resistance: 300m (30bar)
- Bracelet/Strap: Steel ladder bracelet with friction-lock folding clasp