The Morteau brand just keeps on improving! Kicking off 2026, they’ve gone back to give one of their premium movement a fresh new face.
When it comes to brands that have had a lasting impact on me, few rival my experiences with the French brand Pequignet. While they are relatively unknown on this side of the world, that does not diminish their horological clout or prowess. Founded in 1973 — three years before another remarkable independent, Raymond Weil — the Morteau-based brand has made a paradigm shift in how it approaches the art and science of watchmaking.
Pequignet not only champions traditional craft alongside contemporary innovation, but it has also made significant strides in keeping as much of its production process as possible localised in France. In doing so, the brand has evolved considerably over the years.
With Watches and Wonders 2026 just around the corner, Pequignet is set to make its third appearance at the world’s biggest watch festival its most significant yet. While details of what the brand has planned for the week remain under wraps, we do know a little about its latest release: the Royale Paris Manuelle.
This is not the first time a Pequignet watch has featured a manual movement; the brand has been producing the Royale Manuelle series since 2017. However, the Royale Paris Manuelle represents the latest evolution of the model, with a refined shape, size, and design that set it apart from its predecessors.
Encased in stainless steel, the Pequignet Royale Paris Manuelle is a significant slimming of the Royale Manuelle collection: the previous 42mm case diameter has been reduced to 39.5mm, the lug-to-lug to 47mm, and the thickness trimmed from 12.3mm to 11.5mm. Combined with a sleeker case silhouette and a deep brown calfskin strap, the wearing experience of the Royale Paris Manuelle is worlds away from the original models.
The transformation is equally evident in its aesthetic updates. Pequignet has replaced the old Arabic numerals with classic stick indexes, set against an opaline silver dial that is grained for texture and recessed for depth. Lumed alpha hands occupy the centre, complemented by a radially cut small seconds subdial at six o’clock.
But the real trick of the Royale Paris Manuelle lies not in its design, but in its movement. For those unfamiliar, Pequignet’s commitment to pure French horology means that almost all of their movements — and movement components — are designed, developed, manufactured, and assembled in-house at their Morteau manufacture. There are, of course, parts they cannot yet produce, but Morteau is just a 30-minute drive from La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
The result is the Calibre Royale Manuelle, which runs at a respectable 3Hz (21,600VpH) and boasts a remarkable 100-hour power reserve. This is achieved through the use of a Grand Barillet (large mainspring barrel), a technical feat rarely seen in smaller, lesser-known brands. Even some established household names have yet to accomplish something like this—yet Pequignet does it while ensuring their movements are as visually impressive as they are technically accomplished.
My Thoughts
Ever since I had the opportunity to visit their Paris boutique last summer, my appreciation for what Pequignet does has only grown. ‘100% in-house’ is a noble goal for any brand, but many either fail to grasp how lofty an ambition it is, or simply lack the resources to achieve it.
But it’s different with Pequignet. I wholeheartedly believe they can achieve the distinction of being a 100% in-house French watchmaker. Given their past successes with the Calibre Royale and Calibre Initial, it’s clear they are on the right track.
While we at Watch Advice — and most of us Down Under — haven’t yet fully felt the impact of what the brand is aiming for, it won’t be long before more Aussie watch lovers catch on. The Royale Paris Manuelle is just the beginning.
Reference: 9100033
Specifications
- Dimensions: 39.5mm case diameter x 47mm lug-to-lug x 11.5mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Silver with grained texturing & gouging
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. Royale Manuelle with small seconds complication
- Power Reserve: 100h
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Interchangeable brown calfskin with steel folding buckle