Thirty years of Roger Dubuis have led to this new release from the brand! The master watchmaker’s Hommage collection makes a spectacular return — and in a 38mm case, no less!
I understand the plight of most people wanting to get into the Roger Dubuis watch scene, whether that be literally or in spirit. The Genevan brand’s horological prowess is nothing to joke about — just look at the insane tech they’ve managed to produce over this year alone!
But their mechanical engineering has never been their biggest issue; It’s not even their design, though it does draw ire from certain sects of the watch community, the biggest obstacle barring most people from the Roger Dubuis fan club is the sheer size of their watches.
With the case sizes averaging the 42-45mm range, it takes a certain type of person to pull one off: Either you have to have the exact frame as Mike O’Hearn, or you gotta be rich enough to not care. Most smaller-wristed enthusiasts, then, often fear that the days of the universally wearable Roger Dubuis watch are long gone.
With this new release, perhaps that’s not the case? Given that the new Hommage La Placide is a limited run of 28 pieces, maybe not. But Roger Dubuis are demonstrating that they still keep their founder’s spirit close at heart, and there’s no better way to do so than by reviving the Hommage line.
You see, for the first few years of the brand, the eponymous founder of the brand produced the Hommage line as a demonstration of all he had learned. Taking a career journey across brands like Longines and Patek Philippe, he poured all his artistic and engineering talents into this collection. Since their discontinuation in the early 2000s, Hommage references have become some of the most sought-after neo-vintage watches of all time.
Today, the new Hommage La Placide is both a remix of the Hommage line and a heartfelt, well, homage to the late Roger Dubuis. Taking its name from Dubuis’ own nickname ‘Placide’ (Placid), the timepiece is encased in 18k pink gold with a 38mm wide, 11mm thick case.
If you’re fairly new to Roger Dubuis, this may be surprising given their penchant for giant cases, but modest sizing and delicate aesthetics once made up the backbone of their early catalogue. Of course, the watch will wear a lot denser than you might expect, given the gold construction, but it will certainly shrink in comparison to other Roger Dubuis models.
The elegant design translates to the dial, which has also been thoughtfully considered to properly honour Dubuis’ original vision. Atop a backdrop of Leman Blue lacquer, the brand’s signature Biretrograde complication is displayed front and off-centre, occupying the three and nine o’clock positions.
Above the Biretrograde is a month and leap year indicator, and a moonphase using blue aventurine can be seen just below. All four complications also make use of white mother-of-pearl for extra shimmer, and are outlined with the same pink gold of the case. This spectacular array of complications is completed by a set of lance hands and a radially-brushed rhodium minute track, with the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) proudly set next to the date display.
And there’s a reason for the Geneva Seal being there, of course! As I alluded to, Roger Dubuis has always prided itself upon its insane dedication to watchmaking and stalwartly adheres to the strict rules that garner that seal of horological excellence.
However, this might be one of my favourite movements yet, as the Hommage La Placide’s automatic RD1472 is actually an extension of the original RD14 movement from 2004. One by one, the movements were carefully checked, refurbished, and then upgraded to increase performance and add the RD72 perpetual calendar complication.
As an explanation for the low power reserve of 48 hours and the limited nature of this watch, it’s certainly one heck of a good one! Beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH), it even still uses the original balance springs.
This is a significant feat; Not only because it enabled the brand to become an official Manufacture, but they also serve as some of the last pieces of physical evidence of Dubuis’ impact on the horological world. To have a piece of the founder’s original craft, working as if it was made yesterday, is a gift indeed.
My Thoughts
I admit, it’s hard sometimes for me to get excited for a Roger Dubuis. Don’t get me wrong, I love the brand’s approach to horology. Goodness knows we need to be more adventurous with watch designs these days, especially when minimalism’s making everything look the same. But every time I see a new Roger Dubuis watch, I already know that I’m sized out of it. As a fan of literally everything else besides the dimensions, it disheartens me. How can I get excited for a watch I don’t think I can even wear?
When Chamath told me about the new Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide, I was immediately blown away by what I heard. Another masterpiece from the brand, sure, but in 38mm? Was it real, or a terribly timed April Fool’s joke? Turns out, it was the former, and I couldn’t have been more psyched.
Again, I know and am fully prepared to accept that this state of watch nerd euphoria won’t last forever; This is just 28 pieces, after all. But it does show a glimmer of hope for us smaller-wristed folk. Perhaps Roger Dubuis will finally notice us, and make the 37-40mm watches a permanent fixture of the roster again! We’ll have to wait and see if that happens, but until then, it makes me happy to know that the Hommage line is finally back.
Reference: RDDBHO0612
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 38mm case diameter x 11mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k pink gold
- Dial: Leman Blue lacquer with mother-of-pearl & blue aventurine accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. RD1472 with perpetual calendar (Biretrograde day/date, month, leap year displays) & moonphase complications
- Power Reserve: 48h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Strap: Blue leather strap with 18k pink gold butterfly buckle