Seiko’s latest Presage Craftsmanship models reinterpret the historic Laurel through traditional enamel and urushi lacquer dial-making.
Seiko continues to honour Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, by introducing two new modern-day variants that combine mechanical watchmaking expertise with distinctive expressions of Japanese culture and artistry. As Japan’s watchmaking history began to take shape, so too did Seiko’s, with the Laurel helping to establish both the brand and the country on the wristwatch map.
More than a century later, the 1913 Seiko Laurel design continues to influence the brand’s watchmaking, with the Presage collection being one of the clearest expressions of this philosophy, combining Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking with Japanese culture and artisanal craft. Within the Presage collection, Seiko has its own Classic Series “Craftsmanship” line, which was created specifically to focus on traditional Japanese dial-making techniques.
These two latest additions to the line continue this concept, with dials featuring enamel or urushi lacquer that directly reference the design of the original 1913 Laurel. However, these timepieces are not just about decorative dials. Looking at the broader meaning behind them, both enamel and urushi lacquer require specialist knowledge, and Seiko positions these “Craftsmanship” timepieces as part of its effort to preserve traditional skills for future generations.
Two Traditional Crafts, One Historic Design
While the dial finishes are different, both watches come housed in the latest Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” case design. The case measures 39.6mm in diameter and 12.4mm thick, making these models wearable across a range of wrist sizes while still giving the dial enough room for the layered craftsmanship. Seiko states that the case was “specifically designed to enhance the depth and dimensionality of the enamel and urushi lacquer dials.”
The two case materials on offer perfectly complement the dial aesthetics as well. Seiko gives the HCC005J a stainless steel case with the brand’s super-hard coating, while the HCC006J receives yellow gold-coloured plating. The stainless steel case matches the enamel dial nicely, giving it a more traditional dress-watch look that is in line with the original Laurel model.
The urushi model, however, is the more premium and luxurious edition, as the black urushi dial beautifully contrasts against the gold case to offer a more distinctive and warmer aesthetic. This gives both timepieces two very different personalities, even though they carry the exact same design characteristics. Both models also feature a mixture of vertical satin-brushed and polished surfaces, further reinforcing the craftsmanship behind the collection beyond its artisanal dials.
As mentioned earlier, the dials of these two new timepieces reference the original 1913 Laurel. The HCC005J model, with its pristine white enamel dial, bears the closest resemblance to the original, not only through the white enamel but also the stylised Arabic numeral typeface used for the indices and the distinctive red 12 o’clock marker. The enamel dial is produced by master enamel artisans Mitsuru Yokosawa and Kazunori Uchiyama.
The golden HCC006J model, on the other hand, is the first time Seiko is interpreting the Laurel design in urushi lacquer. The deep black lacquer acts as the perfect contrast for the gold-coloured numerals, hands and various elements throughout the dial. Urushi is a centuries-old Japanese craft known for its rich lustre and durability, with the lacquer surface built up through repeated hand-painting and hand-polishing. Seiko also notes that the surface actually gains strength as the years pass.
The urushi lacquer dial is created under the supervision of urushi master Isshu Tamura, with Toshikazu Tsuji, Mitsuki Tsuji and their team involved in production. Mitsuki Tsuji herself comes from the Echizen urushi tradition and is furthering her craft through her studies with Tamura in Kanazawa. This continuation of knowledge between generations is a testament to Seiko’s commitment to preserving these beautiful traditional craftsmanship techniques and ensuring they remain relevant in modern watchmaking.
Seiko’s Practical 72-Hour 6R5H Calibre
Both models are fitted with Seiko’s Calibre 6R5H, which operates at a frequency of 3Hz, or 21,600vph, while offering an impressive three-day power reserve. The 72-hour power reserve reinforces the daily wearability of these timepieces, exactly as intended. While the movement is not as visually elaborate as the dials, that is precisely the point, as it allows the watches to focus on craftsmanship while the Calibre 6R5H works away in the background, providing modern everyday usability.
The two models come with open sapphire casebacks through which the Calibre 6R5H movement can be viewed. While the movement finishing is more restrained than the exterior of the watch, having it visible adds another mechanical layer, reinforcing that these Classic Series “Craftsmanship” models are still very much Presage timepieces at heart.
Initial Thoughts
Seiko’s two new Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” models showcase two different sides of Japanese craftsmanship using the same base architecture. The white enamel dial is the closest interpretation of the original 1913 Seiko Laurel design, featuring the signature red “12”, Arabic numeral typeface, and pristine white enamel surface that closely echoes the historic piece.
The urushi edition, on the other hand, is the more expressive timepiece. Combining a deep black lacquer dial with gold accents and a gold-coloured case, it stands out beautifully, easily making it the more visually dramatic of the two. The biggest strength of these releases, however, is not their colour variations. It is the fact that Seiko is helping to keep traditional craftsmanship techniques alive.
Each technique has its own history, specialists and production challenges, but these are not something Seiko is shying away from. Both models are continuous-production pieces, ensuring that these artisanal techniques are continually developed and put to use rather than being confined to limited-edition collector pieces.
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Timepieces
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | HCC005J (White enamel dial) & HCC006J (Black urushi dial) |
| Dimensions | 39.6mm diameter x 12.4mm thick |
| Case | Stainless steel (HCC005J) or yellow gold-plated (HCC006J) |
| Dial | Hand-crafted white enamel or black urushi dials with stylised Arabic numeral typeface for hour indices. |
| Crystal | Dual Curved Sapphire Glass with Anti-Reflective Coating on the Inside |
| Caseback | Sapphire with anti-reflective coating. |
| Movement | Automatic Calibre 6R5H |
| Power Reserve | 3 Days (72 hours) |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz (21,600 VpH) |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black leather strap (both models). |