If the Spooky Season has you afraid of the dark, never fear: Lume is here! To help brighten your day, night, and possibly your wrist, here’s a selection of some of the most interesting lumed watches out there.
The end of October heralds the Halloween season. However, for us adults, it’s often forgotten. I mean, who can blame us? As we’ve grown up, the irrational fear of ghosts, zombies, and other creepy crawlies has long been replaced. We now have real, tangible fears: Taxes, getting older, and the annual defrosting of Mariah Carey.
But in that spirit, Halloween allows us to celebrate those fears, no matter how real or unreal they may be. Last year, I did just that, compiling a list of the most interesting Halloween-themed watches I’ve come across. I understand, though, that not everyone loves to celebrate scary things; It’s, well, scary.
So this year, I decided to look on the brighter side of life with a new list of timepieces. Instead of revering those things that dwell in the dark, I’ve decided to commemorate some watches that live in the light! So, join me as I guide you through ten fascinating lumed watches that I’ve come across this year.
Swatch MoonSwatch Mission To The Moonphase Full Moon
While Watch Advice is typically associated with exclusive, luxury timepieces, we also believe that watchmaking should be accessible to everyone. And who better to demonstrate this point than our ongoing love for all things Swatch?
If you’re unfamiliar, the Swiss brand champions itself as an accessible, vibrant, and fun watchmaker. However, their whimsy comes with an underlying sense of seriousness, given their affiliation with their eponymous parent company, the Swatch Group. You may have heard the name come up recently, though, as they caused a massive storm in the business with the release of the MoonSwatch – a quartz lookalike to the ever-popular Omega Speedmaster.
Since then, they’ve released a few other iterations of this seminal collection, one of which is this Mission to the Moonphase Full Moon. Encased in white Bioceramic, what sets this one apart from its peers is its moonphase complication. Showing the phases of the moon, the complication is situated at two o’clock with an adorable illustration of Snoopy the beagle resting atop.
The Peanuts comic character has served as the unofficial mascot for NASA since the 1960s, and given the MoonSwatch’s resemblance to Omega’s famous spacefaring timepiece, the tribute couldn’t be any more fitting. Under the dark of night, this is made more apparent, as the moon and stars light up alongside a quote from the comic strip: “I can’t sleep without a night light!”
- Reference: SO33W700
- Case Size: 42mm
- Material: White Bioceramic
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$510
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to Swatch.com!
Houtman Murchison River Lume
Admittedly, I knew scant little of this watch brand when I first joined up at Watch Advice. But given that we love to showcase the Aussie watch space, we also love discovering surprising timepieces that have been developed Down Under!
Meet Houtman: a Western Australian microbrand founded by Jason Liddell, named after the Houtman Abrolhos Islands. The archipelago of 122 islands is itself named after the 17th-century Dutch sailor Frederick de Houtman, and is but one pocket of the endless natural beauty found in our awesome country.
Since 2019, the brand has come out with two collections, the Pilbara and Murchison, to handle the rigours of everyday life. But just because they’re purpose-built doesn’t mean they can’t be inventive! Look no further than this Murchison River Lume, which opposes many of its siblings with a dressier flair.
With a monochromatic dial, the timepiece is inconspicuous enough by day, but the true secret is revealed at night. Three different colours of lume come to life, decorating the dial with a dazzling display of colours. While you might get easily hypnotised, don’t forget that this watch is more than its party trick. Houtman still builds their watches to work, as shown by its 100m water resistance and the ever-reliable Sellita SW200 automatic movement.
- Reference: N/A (Murchison River Lume)
- Case Size: 40mm
- Material: Stainless steel
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$875, Listed AU$750, limited to 75 pieces
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to Houtman.com!
MIDO Commander Gradient Catrines
If you read the last Halloween article, then you knew that MIDO was going to be back here. And if Halloween special articles become a yearly tradition, you can bet they’re going to be back next year, too.
In any case, MIDO have dropped their sixth iteration of the Commander in celebration of Día de los Muertos, or the Mexican/Latin American Day of the Dead. Unlike Halloween, Día de Muertos has less emphasis on spooky fun. Instead, it’s a deeply spiritual celebration of fallen friends, family, and loved ones. It’s not all grim-dark, though, as these celebrations can often take a humorous tone amidst sombre remembrance.
Paying tribute to this distinctive holiday, MIDO’s Commander Gradient Catrines proudly sports a brightly-coloured Cavalera, or sugar skull, atop the dial. Representing the souls of the departed, they are often used as a reminder of death as much as life, and are often decorated in a similar fashion is depicted by MIDO.
Like other special edition Commanders that came before, the Gradient Catrines lights up in a similar fashion; Green and blue lume accentuate the flower details as well as the Cavalera itself. While I’m a touch miffed that this iteration has fewer lume colours, I’ll let it slide for now – in the daytime, the fascinating dial pops atop the smoky translucent dial.
- Reference: M021.407.11.411.04
- Case Size: 40mm
- Material: Stainless steel
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$1,750
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to MIDOWatches.com!
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver Black
Another brand you may not be familiar with is Zodiac, an underrated competitor in the industry. A quick look into their history might put you off, given that they’re owned by the typically fashion-focused Fossil Group. However, that parent company is merely the tip of an incredibly interesting iceberg.
Zodiac has actually been around since 1882, placing them among other industry greats with a catalogue of iconic timepieces. One of the most notable is the legendary Sea Wolf line, released in 1953 alongside two “relative unknowns”: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner. Yes, that was sarcasm. In truth, Zodiac is often the forgotten one — unfairly so — as one of the early pioneers of the modern dive watch.
Today, the Sea Wolf has been revitalised through a range of variations, including ceramic-cased and stone-dial references. The real object of fascination here, however, is the openworked version of the modern Super Sea Wolf collection. Normally, openworked dials and dive watches go together like oil and water, but in this case, it’s been executed with surprising taste and even some practical merit.
While parts of the dial are cut away, what remains are clean, unbroken lines of green lume. This effect is enhanced by the existing luminous elements of the original design, which glow a contrasting, brilliant blue. Powered by the STP6-21 movement, made exclusively for Zodiac, this version of the Super Sea Wolf is far more than just a glowing face.
- Reference: ZO9318
- Case Size: 40mm
- Material: Black DLC stainless steel
- International Recommended Retail Price: US$2,495
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to ZodiacWatches.com!
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 ‘Night Diver’
Coming to the halfway point of the article, I’ve decided to pick an underrated classic among classics. While TAG Heuer has mostly focused on innovating and modernising their current roster, they do still take the time to pay tribute to the classics.
To the average eye, this watch might not look like a classic. Even the casual enthusiast might wonder why I’ve decided to highlight this specific reference; After all, it’s the older version of the current Aquaracer lineup, which is now more wearable and chronometer-certified. On the dial side, it does sport a strong, green lume dial – but even this isn’t enough to set it apart. So what makes this watch an interesting pick?
Well, it’s not exactly about the watch itself, but what it’s based on. If you’re a hardcore Bond fan, you’d know that the famous British spy has rarely been seen without a trusty Omega at his side. You’d also know that was a quirk only adopted by two Bond actors: Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig.
But before Omega became the official watch of 007, Timothy Dalton’s silver screen rendition saw him sport an original Heuer Ref. 980.031 in 1987’s The Living Daylights. This watch was built to perform and look like the consummate professional’s timepiece, with an all-black look and a – wait for it – fully lumed dial!
In that spirit, this Aquaracer reference channels a lesser-known tidbit of the LVMH brand’s heritage in popular culture. It’s even been a favourite of former TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault, who has been seen wearing the piece a few times on occasion. Now, if only there was an updated version…
- Reference: WBP201D.FT6197
- Case Size: 43mm
- Material: Black DLC stainless steel
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$6,600
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to TAGHeuer.com!
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision
Ever played Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2? No, not the new one – the OG that captivated the gaming world back in 2009. Another question: have you ever felt nostalgia for that game’s military aesthetic? If you said ‘yes’ to both, this new Bell & Ross might just be the watch for you.
Oozing with tacti-cool, the new BR-X3 Night Vision is Bell & Ross like you’ve never seen them before. The new watch comes equipped with a carbon case, skeletonised but practical aesthetics, and a chronometer-certified calibre by Kenissi, the same movement manufacturer as Tudor.
But that’s not all, though, as the BR-X3 Night Vision’s carbon case has also been injected with veins of lume, making for a truly unique viewing experience at night. However, even the case can’t steal the show from the ridiculous green aura pulsating from the dial, which has been positively overloaded with the stuff.
While Bell & Ross has been known to make other lumed watches, including full-lume dials and even cases, this newest offering from the French brand is one of the best I’ve seen in their catalogue. It’s just got that nostalgia, spec-ops feel to it that games like MW2 really nailed. The only tough nut to crack would be the price: AU$21,800. But that comes with the benefit of being able to literally wrap yourself (more accurately, your wrist) in that military nostalgia – without having to deal with chronically online preteens who claim to have slept with your mother.
- Reference: BRX3R-GN-CA/SRB
- Case Size: 41mm
- Material: Luminescent carbon fibre
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$21,800, limited to 250 pieces
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to BellRoss.com!
Sarpaneva x Moomin 80
Another returning brand to this year’s Halloween special is Sarpaneva, a Finnish independent known for their abstract designs. If you read the Halloween article last year (please read it), then you’d also know that they’re also known for the distinctive ‘moon face,’ which I likened to the moon in Majora’s Mask.
While my opinion on that moon face has not changed (it’s creepy), this offering from Sarpaneva is less so. It’s fitting, since the theme of today is to keep the monsters in the dark away, which their collaboration with The Moomins seems to be doing quite well. Celebrating the 80th Anniversary of The Moomins’ creation by fellow Finn Tove Jansson, Stefan Sarpaneva has unveiled a limited run of sixty pieces to mark the occasion.
Taking directly from a still in Jansson’s Comet in Moominland, the new duo of Sarpaneva watches depicts the Moomin trolls fast asleep in the forest, as the hours fly overhead alongside the stars. At night, the forest comes to life around the sleeping creatures, revealing a breathtaking application of ten different colours of lume. These limited edition watches are an adorable, distinctively Finnish addition to the Sarpaneva roster, but be warned: the display case back still sports Sarpaneva’s signature moon face. It’s always watching you.
- Reference: N/A (Sarpaneva x Moomin 80, ‘Monochrome’ / ‘Colours’)
- Case Size: 42mm
- Material: Stainless steel
- International Recommended Retail Price: €13,500, limited to 30 pieces per reference
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to StudioSarpaneva.com!
Panerai Submersible E-Lux LAB ID
Okay, so this watch might make it into my list of favourite watches of all time. You might ask yourself why, though: Is it mind-blowingly beautiful? Not really – it’s a purpose-built Panerai Submersible? Is it wearable? At 49mm? For a gorilla, maybe. But trust me – this Panerai’s party trick is not one to be missed.
I, for one, have always been a supporter of Panerai despite any perceived drawbacks. They’re one of the most recognisable watches of all time, and the ways in which they’ve been able to innovate off of such a unique frame is remarkable. However, I truly believe they’ve outdone themselves with this one. The blue Ceramitech is cool and all, yes, but that’s not what I’m talking about: This Panerai has a mechanically operated backlight.
You read that correctly, by the way; Not only does the Panerai’s Submersible Elux Lab-ID sport three days’ worth of power reserve, but it’s also able to generate 30 minutes of on-demand illumination beyond its lume capabilities. As a tribute to their 1966 discovery of the Elux material – short for elettroluminescenza, or electroluminescence – the Elux system uses a switch at 7 o’clock to convert mechanical energy to electricity, powering in-built LEDs.
It’s not the most practical to carry around, but it’s also not a common complication either. So, if you were ever going to take this on a nighttime jog – possible thanks to the ultra-light Ceramitech – you can rest assured that you’ll have a timepiece that can help light the path ahead.
- Reference: PAM1800
- Case Size: 49mm
- Material: Blue Ti-Ceramitech™
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$177,200, limited to 150 pieces
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to Panerai.com!
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Tourbillon Perpetual Honeygold Lumen
Released at last year’s Watches and Wonders, this A. Lange & Söhne has been a favourite of mine since I first covered it. And while I don’t have the rest of the team looking over my shoulder as I type this, I’m sure they’d agree — it’s one hell of a watch.
Building on both their patented Honeygold® material and their delightfully offbeat Lumen collection, this version of the incredible Datograph Perpetual made quite the splash in 2024. As I mentioned, it brings together two of Lange’s most coveted design features. Honeygold® is distinctive in its own right, but the real star of the show here is the mesmerising Lumen treatment.
In line with other Lumen models, the Datograph Tourbillon Perpetual Honeygold Lumen features a translucent dial, with nearly every detail treated with lume. It’s everywhere — from the subdials to the tachymetric scale and even the twin wheels that make up the outsized date. Thanks to the semi-transparent dial, every component remains visible at all times, glowing with an elegantly ominous green radiance from any angle.
- Reference: 740.055FE
- Case Size: 41.5mm
- Material: 18k Honeygold®
- International Recommended Retail Price: €620,000, limited to 50 pieces
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to ALange-Soehne.com!
IWC Ceralume Concept
Finally, we cap off the list with a piece so elusive that only two things are certain: it’s an IWC, and it’s made from their new proprietary material. We could try reaching out to its one known wearer, Lewis Hamilton; But last I heard, he was busy driving tractors and might not be available for comment.
Jokes aside, IWC’s Ceralume® concept watches are among the most impressive innovations we’ve seen from the Schaffhausen brand. By combining ceramic with Super-LumiNova (itself a ceramic compound), IWC’s experimental division, XPL, has managed to create a case and dial capable of absorbing and emitting Super-LumiNova’s bluish light for up to 24 hours. To top it off, the concept piece even features a luminous strap—just in case the watch itself wasn’t bright enough on its own.
Although still very much a concept, this watch sets an exciting precedent for further innovation from both IWC and the wider industry. While I share Matt’s sentiment in hoping it doesn’t become a permanent part of the commercial lineup, I’m eager to see how this technology evolves within IWC’s future releases. For now, I suppose we’ll just have to keep a close eye on George Russell and Kimi Antonelli…
- Reference: N/A (Concept Piece)
- Case Size: N/A (Concept Piece)
- Material: Ceralume®
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: N/A (Concept Piece)