A. Lange & Söhne has released two new limited edition Saxonia Thin models, one in 18k HONEYGOLD® and one in Platinum, both exuding pure class with a gloss black onyx dial!
When it comes to dressier watches, not many watch brands rival the sophistication and elegance of A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has a habit of creating beautiful watches across all model lines. Even the sporty Odysseus has an air of sophistication about it, not often found in sports pieces. Perhaps the purest dress watch collection in the A. Lange & Söhne collection is the Saxonia Thin. Sleek, minimalistic and refined in well-proportioned case sizes – what more does one need in a dress watch? Well, HONEYGOLD® or Platinum versions, thanks!
Today, A. Lange & Söhne has released two new Saxonia Thin models, both limited to 200 pieces and individually numbered. For those who want a warmer, more lustrous piece, Lange has created an 18k HONEYGOLD® model, and for those who want a more cool-toned version that says “stealth wealth”, there is a 950 Platinum model to choose from. Both are distinctively A. Lange & Söhne in the design and the movement.
Both models come in a very respectable and wearable 40mm case size that is only 6.2mm thick, so these watches are designed to slip under the cuff very easily. The curved lugs on each mean these sit nicely on the wrist, and for someone who’s tried on a few Saxonia Thin’s, I can say these watches do wear very nicely on both smaller and larger wrists. While these new models are slightly larger than the current 37mm and 39mm models, the design and thinness of the case will all but negate the extra millimetre or three.
Dial Details
What sets these models apart from the current lineup, aside from the HONEYGOLD® and Platinum, is the dark gloss black dials made from silver and onyx. 925 Silver is used as the base of the dial, which is then faced with black onyx, giving each watch a jet-black, glossy finish. Contrasting the dial are applied indices in 18k Gold (red and white), which are Rhodium-plated, as are the hands of each Saxonia Thin.
The A. Lange & Söhne designers dedicated a large part of their work to optimising the length and shape of the hands, as well as the intricate detailing of the baton appliques and their polished chamfers. This all creates a very minimalistic design that, according to A. Lange & Söhne, “the dial is totally focused on the indication of time in hours and minutes.”
These small details are what I feel set A. Lange & Söhne apart. Where any watch brand can create a simple two-hand, time-only watch, very few can master this to be as elegant and as refined as A. Lange & Söhne, at least in my opinion, and when you get up close with these, or any A. Lange & Söhne, for that matter, you understand exactly how well done they are.
The L093.1 Calibre
Part of what makes Lange unique is the way it approaches its movements. Talking to David Weber, A. Lange & Söhne’s Flying Watchmaker, recently, he explained that every movement is developed on its own merits. By this, he means A. Lange & Söhne don’t re-use movements as a base for another calibre, such as taking a time-only watch and bolting on a modular chronograph movement to make a chronograph. Lange designs the movement from the ground up, and when done, each is double assembled (assembled, taken fully apart, then assembled again) before the movement is cased up and tested in all positions for accuracy. Not only this, but A. Lange & Söhne take pride in each movement being finished beautifully, traditionally and on all components, even the non-visible parts when assembled and cased. The calibre L093.1 is no different in the Saxonia Thin.
Even though the L093.1 Calibre is a “simple” time-only, Lange does not spare anything when it comes to the finishing of the movement. The three-quarter bridge made from German Silver, iconic to A. Lange & Söhne watches is present with the large striping. The edges are bevelled by hand, and the cut away shows the hand-engraved balance cock and balance wheel. Even the rubies, gold chatons and blue fired screws are placed in a way that assists with the aesthetics of the watch, as is the crown and ratchet wheels.
The L093.1 is a manual winding calibre, adjusted in five positions and with a 72-hour power reserve. it beats away at 3Hz / 21,600 VpH and is set on 21 jewels with 167 components. The balance cock is shock-resistant thanks to the screwed down design, and the balance spring is, unlike many brands, manufactured in-house by A. Lange & Söhne.
Initial Thoughts
I’ve said it before, many times, that I am not really a dress watch person. I appreciate the hell out of a good dress watch, but my lifestyle right now, and climate, means that I won’t be in the market for one anytime soon. Although I do wish I had one from time to time when I go to more formal occasions. Should I purchase one, however, budget allowing, then A. Lange & Söhne will probably be at the top of the list. Having delved into the brand a lot more over the last couple of years, my appreciation for them has only grown. Hands-on exposure will do that, of course, but overall, the watches are hard to fault, putting aside any personal design preferences you have.
The Saxonia Thin essentially epitomises what a nice dress watch should be. Precious metal, minimalistic, beautifully designed and easy to wear. It ticks all these boxes and then some. And in the unlikely event you get sick of the dial, then turn the watch over to reveal the manual winding Calibre L093.1 inside that beats away, keeping you on time. With a limited production of just 200 pieces each, I’m sure there will be some astute collectors out there who will snap these up.
References: 211.052 – 750 HONEYGOLD® / 211.062 – 950 Platinum
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40mm x 6.2mm thick
- Case Material: Brushed and Polished 18k HONEYGOLD® or 950 Platinum with three-part case construction
- Dial: 925 Silver and Black Onyx dial. 18k Gold, rhodium-plated applied baton-styled indices and hands
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: Manual winding Calibre L093.1, beating at 3Hz / 21,600 VpH and pivoting on 21 Jewels. Base plate and bridges made of German Silver, hand-finished components, engraved balance cock and double assembled and tested in 5 positions
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal and caseback
- Strap: Black glossy Alligator leather with prong buckle in 750 HONEYGOLD® or 950 Platinum