Rolex makes an unexpected drop with the Perpetual Padellone, a new take on the dress watch that succeeds where the Cellini left off.
For all the popularity that Rolex holds, in both the watch industry and general popular culture, they certainly do move in mysterious ways. The Swiss brand has built up an empire of luxury, based on their reputation for excellence, success, and their infuriating yet highly effective distribution strategy. It’s remarkable that, even to this day, it’s near impossible to keep track of exactly how Rolex moves or operates within the watch world.
This recent release is indicative of such, even in the face of much speculation. Ever since the discontinuation of the Cellini collection and introduction of the 1908 line in its place, many enthusiasts wondered if and when they would recommit to dress watch complications once again. This year, it seems that everyone’s questions have been answered, with a completely unannounced launch of three brand new references that has blindsided the watch industry.
Out Of The Frying Pan…
Meet the new Rolex Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar, which takes direct inspiration from the vintage Ref. 8171 from the mid-20th Century. Nicknamed Padellone, Italian for ‘large frying pan’, by its collectors, it marks the very first time Rolex has ever named a watch after a fan-driven alias. In any case, the new piece stands at a near-universally wearable silhouette of 39mm wide, 45.1mm long, and 12.2mm thick.
Though the dimensions might be diminutive to some, it nearly matches the original’s proportions, albeit with some added wrist presence thanks to the materials of choice. Within the trio exist two references in fade-resistant 18k Everose gold and one in platinum, combining a high-lustre weight to make for an impactful wearing experience.
The Padellone isn’t just a straight-up vintage revival, though, as it also takes design cues from the modern 1908 lineup. The same stepped bezel and fluted finish sits atop, sharing real estate with a polished rim that contacts the sapphire crystal. The completely polished case and shaped crown also follow suit with that of the 1908.
The Padellone comes in two different strap options for the Everose gold references, and just one for the platinum. The latter uses an appropriately dressy alligator leather strap, while the former gives you the option between brown alligator or Rolex’s seven-link Settimo bracelet in Everose gold.
Personally, having worn and reviewed the yellow gold Settimo, I would choose it again in an absolute heartbeat, though I hope the clasp isn’t too long like last time. Water resistance is set at a reasonable 50m, which should help protect the watch during the very rare times it’s donned. Well, ‘very rare’ if it’s your prized possession and you’re not a billionaire.
Granular Detail
From the dial side, the layout of the original Ref. 8171 is still adhered to, but with distinctive modern twists that keep the new Padellone fresh. Available in ice blue for the platinum or intense white for the Everose gold, Rolex forgoes the domed dial of the original for a flatter one.
However, it’s still set with subtle dimensional features like a grained finish and a raised date-and-minute track. Other changed features include the hands, which ditch the Dauphine set for the apple hour and sword minute hands of the 1908 collection. The blue date pointer has also changed, from the regular arrow to a crescent shape that highlights the associated date far more accurately. The second hand has also been put in the centre, so as not to impose on the territory of the moonphase.
Other than the removal of the small seconds, said moonphase has been updated from a single to a double display, with a white and blue-PVD moon both set in meteorite. The faceted and polished indexes are also those of the 1908, with the three and nine o’clock numerals remaining on the dial. Where the 12 o’clock should be, however, rests the applied Rolex crown logo in keeping with the Ref. 8171.
Beneath it, the Rolex typeface and remainder of the calendar registers can also be seen. From photos, the watch seems exceptionally finished and thought-out, exactly what is to be expected of Rolex. However, it feels as though the Padellone, aesthetically speaking, fills the same gap that the old Cellini collection did before its discontinuation.
While the Cellini’s designs certainly did feel like a product of the time it was in, I’m beginning to wonder if the reset was entirely necessary for Rolex to get where this watch is now. Still, for all it does, the Padellone executes it extremely well, bringing the brand back into luxury dress watch territory with much gusto.
Perpetually Annual
Turning the watch around, however, reveals perhaps the biggest change of them all. Within the open caseback beats the completely new Cal. 7190, which beats at a spectacular 5Hz (36,000VpH) atop a 66-hour power reserve. This incredible output is largely thanks to the brand’s proprietary Dynapulse escapement.
Using two uniquely shaped silicon wheels, energy is rolled to a silicon rocker with very little friction, transferring power 30% more efficiently than the traditional Swiss lever escapement. 5Hz seems to be the direction Rolex is beginning to go ever since the release of the Land-Dweller last year. I, with many other enthusiasts, welcome the change with open arms, especially since they’re still Superlative Chronometer certified.
Beyond that, the Cal. 7190 uses a new annual calendar complication which includes their new Haplos system. Only requiring two additional components, the Haplos system helps to automatically distinguish between 30-day and 31-day months, which instantaneously changes alongside the day and date. Should the watch run out of power, inset correctors are present to help get the watch back up to the current time.
This is where I also run into another major head-scratcher. This is the second annual calendar movement Rolex has made in recent memory. The first, the Cal. 9001, was introduced with the Sky-Dweller all the way back in 2012. Fourteen years on, it’s interesting to see Rolex remain in absentia from the perpetual calendar arena, especially with the phrase ‘Perpetual Annual Calendar’ setting the Padellone up for a potential faux pas.
Perhaps these models are the brand’s first exercise into deeper complications, and they’re simply priming us for something much bigger. However, given Rolex’s penchant for moving in absolute silence, only time will truly tell.
Initial Thoughts
Despite my reservations, the Rolex Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar collection has kickstarted a whole new chapter in the Crown’s illustrious history. Many enthusiasts have longed for Rolex’s return to complications not seen since the Cellini days. And while reception has been mixed, it was always bound to be given the ubiquitousness of the brand within the cultural mainstream.
Questions have always surrounded every single Rolex release, which, more than anything, simply shows just how big of a deal it is when they drop. But regardless of what nature those questions are, there’s no denying that the Padellone has whet the appetites of watch lovers worldwide, through the same standards of excellence that elevated Rolex to the top of the food chain in the first place.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | M53505-0002 (Everose, Leather) M53506-0002 (Platinum, Leather) M53505-0003 (Everose, Settimo) |
| Dimensions | 39mm case diameter x 45.1mm lug-to-lug x 12.2mm thickness |
| Case | 18k Everose gold / 950 platinum |
| Dial | Grained white / ice blue with blue, meteorite, & gold / platinum accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 7190 with Superlative Chronometer certification, Haplos annual calendar (day, date, month) & moonphase complications |
| Power Reserve | 66h |
| Beat Rate | 5Hz / 36,000VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black / brown alligator leather strap with material-matched pin buckle Settimo Everose gold bracelet with folding clasp |