The singular design lives on, as Daniel Roth introduces a new interpretation of their iconic silhouette in rose gold and black gilt.
Achieving elegance can be a fickle thing. Though the definition is fairly cut and dried, beauty with little effort, it’s a lot easier said than done. This is especially true in the dress watch world, where stringent rules often constrict the creativity of even the most adaptable designer. And though most dress watches eventually find themselves violating one or more of these unspoken regulations, the few that manage to make it through unscathed truly shine in their elegance.
I am, of course, talking about Daniel Roth. Founded by the eponymous master watchmaker, he’s since taken a backseat in the later years of his life, tasking LVMH to pick up where he left off. The conglomerate hasn’t taken it lying down, though, as they’ve brought their A-game to ensure Mr Roth’s legacy remains set in stone.
As part of this legacy is the Extra Plat collection, which simplified the iconic lines of the C187 Tourbillon into a graceful two-hander. Since LVMH Watch Week 2025, they’ve steadily begun to expand the collection into more materials, colours, and even a skeletonised reference for the first time in the brand’s history. This time around, they reach back into their bag of skills to produce a new rose gold, black dial reference using a new technique unseen in the lineup.
Ellipse Eclipse
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt takes after its senior peers in terms of case dimensions. And with such a recognisable silhouette, why wouldn’t it? Measuring 35.5mm in case diameter, 38.6mm lug-to-lug, and just 7.7mm thick, the new watch is defined by that signature double-ellipse case.
Constructed in 18k rose gold and finished to a high polish, it establishes itself as a halo of light that stands between the strap and dial. Though 35.5mm might sound like a dainty watch, the unique case shape allows for added visual wrist presence compared to a traditionally round one.
Furthermore, the added density of rose gold should make the watch wear much heavier than expected, further contributing to the wearing experience. For its density and shape, though, it’s no stranger to comfort. Like its siblings, the new Extra Plat comes on a supplied black calfskin leather strap, terminating in a traditional rose gold pin buckle. Water resistant to just 30m, it’s a strictly black-tie piece, but though it can’t go everywhere, where it can go will attract eyes no matter what.
Gilt-y As Charged
Something I’ve always admired about Daniel Roth is their commitment to understated watchmaking in contrast to the attention-grabbing case. Though the golden glow quickly makes the watch’s presence known, the black dial excels in finer details, prompting a more particular eye. The new Extra Plat still carries the watch’s defining dial features, such as the rounded track and indexes, arrow hands, and pinstripe guilloché. However, it differs significantly in one major area: the numerals.
From the outset, they look exactly the same as the rest of the collection. Yet, the way in which they’ve been introduced to the dial is unique to the reference. What Daniel Roth have done is use a gilt dial technique, where the dial itself starts off as a rose gold base. A turning machine is then used to cut the brand’s pinstripe guilloché pattern, and it is then subjected to electroplating treatments for its deep black colouration.
In the meantime, the numerals aren’t engraved, printed or applied. Instead, they’re masked, kept away from the electroplating treatment and preserving their original shimmering gold colour. While not evident at first glance, it provides a subtle sense of dimensionality to a dial already full of it, making the numerals truly pop against the black background. It’s certainly a roundabout way to add numerals to the dial, but one that produces a result otherwise unseen in the industry, recognisable only when you take a closer look.
Dynamic Duo
Turning the watch around reveals even more of the exceptional details of the Extra Plat. Again, Daniel Roth doesn’t reinvent the wheel here, reintroducing the Cal. DR002 to the party. A manual-wind movement, it operates at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a highly respectable 65 hours of power reserve.
Though it’s not exactly necessary to have such a high beat rate on a two-hand dress watch, the brand has done so to provide a stronger theoretical foundation for stable timekeeping. That way, any variations in accuracy are more likely to even out, especially when you consider the masters at work behind the scenes.
In this case, kudos must go to La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and their two head master watchmakers, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. As finely tuned to micromechanics as they are passionate about the craft, the duo and their team have left no stone unturned in terms of mechanical and aesthetic excellence. Hand-polished bevels and decoration across the base plate and bridges make that abundantly clear, establishing the new Extra Plat as a continuation of the manufacture’s incredible efforts.
Initial Thoughts
Having recently had the pleasure of meeting both Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini during a visit to another LVMH watch brand, Gerald Genta, alongside Genta’s daughter, Alexia Genta, I was ecstatic. Not only as a starstruck fan, but more so because I appreciated the impact they have had on the wider watch industry. Daniel Roth is ostensibly part of that legacy, which has been upheld by Navas and Barbasini through their contributions at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The new Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is just the latest feather in the decorated cap.
Establishing itself firmly among its peers as a reinterpretation of the model line, but featuring a new, intricate decorating technique, it shows the lengths the craftsmen at the brand, and across the wider LVMH group, will go to ensure Mr Roth’s legacy remains as legendary as it is.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | DBBD04A1 |
| Dimensions | 35.5mm case diameter x 38.6mm lug-to-lug x 7.7mm thickness |
| Case | 18k rose gold |
| Dial | Black pinstripe guiloché with rose gold accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Manual wind Cal. DR002 |
| Power Reserve | 65h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black calfskin leather strap with rose gold buckle |