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Panerai’s latest Luminor Luna Rossa releases bring sailing-inspired design, practical complications and Italian sporting spirit to two very different expressions of the collection.

When it comes to the world of sailing, few watch brands in the industry naturally feel as connected to the sea as Panerai. From their historic relationship with the Italian Navy to their modern partnership with Luna Rossa (a prestigious Italian sailing team), the Maison has built their timepieces around maritime purpose.

Now, as Luna Rossa is preparing for the 38th America’s Cup in Naples, Panerai is continuing that story with two new Luminor Luna Rossa editions, with each model bringing a different aesthetic design, purpose, practicality, and Italian sporting spirit.

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Panerai first began its relationship with the America’s Cup in 2017, when the brand entered elite sailing as an Official Partner of the competition and sponsor of Oracle Team USA and SoftBank Team Japan. The partnership with Luna Rossa then followed in 2019, with the brand becoming the Official Sponsor of the Italian sailing team. This collaboration makes perfect sense, as both sides have deep ties to the sea, technical performance, and, of course, that Italian identity.

The two new editions that were introduced were the PAM01768 Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono, a model that leans into the competitive side of sailing as it features the chronograph and tachymeter scale, which have been used to calculate average boat speed over a fixed distance. The second model is the PAM01791 Luminor Luna Rossa GMT, a more reserved and versatile approach. This model, with its GMT functionality, is for those who love to travel, especially in ocean waters!

PAM01768 Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono

The Panerai PAM01768 Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono is presented in the Maison’s signature cushion-shaped case design in brushed steel, which measures 44mm x 16mm (approx). This is certainly no small piece, but that has always been Panerai’s identity: creating bold, highly legible watches with real wrist presence.

The case comes matched with a polished steel bezel, while the tachymeter scale is displayed on the outer flange of the dial. As is the case with Luminor’s chronograph blueprint, the chronograph pushers are placed on the left-hand side, sitting at 8 and 10 o’clock respectively.

Panerai has given the Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono a silver sun-brushed dial, which matches the steel brushed case. While I’m not normally fond of the monochromatic grey timepieces, Panerai has done well to break up this look by adding a touch of red throughout the dial. From the red-tipped chronograph seconds hand to the red hand on the 30-minute counter, these small details bring a sharper racing edge to the display while tying the watch back to the Luna Rossa identity.

What gives the dial depth and character is also its varied finishing techniques. Firstly, we have the sun-brushed dial, with the silver changing tones depending on the lighting angle. The chronograph sub-counters have an azurage finish, while the cut-out hour markers create a stronger sense of depth and layered construction across the display. These details come together to give the Luna Rossa Chrono a dial that feels technical and more engaging than a simple monochromatic layout.

The engine powering this Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono is Panerai’s automatic P.9210 Calibre. The movement features a Glucydur® balance and an Incabloc® anti-shock device, helping support reliability and shock resistance in a more active sporting context. It also runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a modest 42-hour power reserve from a single barrel.

PAM01791 Luminor Luna Rossa GMT

While the Panerai PAM01768 Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono is the sportier and more technical watch that is made to be worn during races, the PAM01791 Luminor Luna Rossa GMT is the watch you wear when celebrating that victory as you travel across the world! Unlike the chrono’s larger profile, the Luminor Luna Rossa GMT features slimmer proportions, with the brushed steel case measuring 40mm x 11.5mm thick (approx.).

This is certainly the more ‘wearable’ option out of the two, as the sizing will cater to a broader range of wrist sizes. The case, as expected, is finished to a high standard, with brushed surfaces appearing at many different angles. Combined with the polished bezel, it gives the watch a nice contrast between tool-watch functionality and everyday refinement, while still retaining that unmistakable Panerai wrist presence.

What makes this model also quite significant is that is introduces the first metal bracelet within the Luna Rossa collection, giving the watch a more integrated design. The steel bracelet also helps shift the GMT away from being a pure Luna Rossa sports-themed watch, and into something that feels far more like a genuine everyday option.

The dial follows the same monochromatic aesthetic as per the Chrono, with a silver sun-brushed finish that pairs neatly with the brushed finishes of the case. And like the chrono, Panerai has once again used red accents to break up the otherwise restrained colour palette, most notably through the red-tipped GMT hand and the red constant seconds hand at 9 o’clock.

What this does, though, is make the second timezone far easier to read at a quick glance. Rather than blending into the rest of the dial, the red-tipped GMT hand stands apart from the rhodium hour and minute hands, which gives the wearer a much clearer visual reference when tracking another location.

The movement inside the PAM01791 Luminor Luna Rossa GMT is the automatic P.900/GMT calibre, which measures only 5.2mm thick, allowing the case to have a slim profile. The movement also features the Incabloc® anti-shock device mechanism, which helps overall reliability of timekeeping. One of the biggest things about this movement, however, is its performance. Operating at 4Hz (28,800 VpH), it offers accurate timekeeping, while the 3-day (72-hour) power reserve ensures it’s the perfect daily and travel watch companion.

Initial Thoughts

These two new Luna Rossa editions show two very different sides of Panerai’s ongoing partnership with the Italian sailing team. The PAM01768 Luna Rossa Chrono feels like the more direct sport-inspired piece, with its 44mm case, left-side pushers and chronograph functionality. The PAM01791 Luna Rossa GMT, on the other hand, takes a more versatile approach, combining a smaller 40mm case, metal bracelet and dual-time functionality with the same Luna Rossa-inspired design language.

Out of the two models, though, my personal pick would be the GMT. While, yes, the chrono is more purpose-built for sailing theme and will provide more wrist presence, the PAM01791 is more wearable and versatile across a range of occasions. If you wanted a practical, everyday watch, the GMT would be the best pick, as the 40mm x 11.5mm case proportions are easy to wear, it features the first-ever steel bracelet option for the collection, while the combination of the three-day power reserve and GMT functionality gives it real-world purpose.

Panerai Luminor Rossa Chrono

References & Specifications

Australian Retail Price: AUD $18,000

Availability: Limited to 500 pieces. Available now through Panerai boutiques, or head online to Panerai.com.au

Panerai Luminor Rossa GMT

References & Specifications

Australian Retail Price: AUD $17,900

Availability: Available through Panerai boutiques and authorised retailers, or head online to Panerai.com.au