A luxury-tier Timex? No, this isn’t a joke – the American brand’s Atelier branch has unveiled a new upscale chronograph in titanium.
For as slow-moving as the watch world is compared to other industries, you can still find yourself pleasantly surprised. Whether that be through a groundbreaking innovation, superb aesthetics, or something entirely different, horology’s cardinal rule is to always expect the unexpected. Last year was full of unexpected releases, such as the Rolex Land-Dweller or the wild Breguet Expérimentale 1. Yet in my personal opinion, one of the year’s biggest shocks was Timex’s bold announcement that it was moving upmarket.
Opening the Timex Atelier subdivision with longtime collaborator Giorgio Galli, the American watch brand turned itself upside down, creating timepieces with more meticulous designs, upper-tier craftsmanship, and luxurious price points to match. While it’s still the Timex we know and love, Timex Atelier has taken on a life of its own, one that was wholly unexpected from the value-driven giant.
This year, they’ve expanded the line with a new chronograph. Bearing the design cues emblematic of Galli’s work and the practical conveniences of the original lineup, the Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti is as spectacular as it is surprising.
Hollow-Light
Measuring 42mm wide, 49.3mm long, and 15.75mm thick, the new Timex Atelier Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti is by no means a diminutive timepiece. However, it wears its silhouette well, thanks to Galli’s thoughtful modernisations. Most notable is the watch’s all-titanium construction; not an unfamiliar feature by Timex standards, but one that still permits an astonishingly lightweight wearing experience.
The case has also been semi-skeletonised, with scalloped case flanks exposing the black mid-case. The chronograph pushers and crown lie flush to said mid-case, while the black steel bezel bulges slightly outwards. This gives the impression that the watch is far larger than its on-paper specifications suggest, once again playing with the contrast between its broad frame and feather-light wear.
Two strap options are available: one with a titanium bracelet and the other with a textured black rubber strap. Both are interchangeable, allowing one to be swapped for the other whenever needed. Of particular note is the titanium bracelet, which is not only interchangeable but also self-adjustable without the use of tools. Spring-loaded links allow you to pull them apart, yet are secure enough to prevent accidental separation, with each link able to be removed and reattached at will.
Ring It In
In terms of design, the Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti exemplifies the Italian neo-vintage themes that have long defined Timex’s collaborations with Giorgio Galli. Reminiscent of classic reverse panda chronographs, the watch is coloured black with grey accents. In lieu of traditional indexes, an applied titanium ring encircles the hands and registers, grooved for each hour. First appearing in Timex’s Giorgio Galli S2Ti model, it seems to have become a signature element of the designer’s work.
A white seconds track runs around the periphery of the dial, while the final touch of elegance comes courtesy of a set of dauphine hands. In keeping with as pure a design as possible, the watch appears to omit lume entirely. It’s an interesting choice for a sports watch, but not one that has been uncommon across the market.
Making Move(ment)s
Turning the watch around, an open caseback reveals the heart of the operation: the Landeron Calibre L72. Essentially a more accessible alternative to the wildly popular ETA/Valjoux Cal. 7750, the Cal. L72 operates at a 4Hz (28,800vph) beat rate atop a respectable 43-hour power reserve. In terms of complications, it features a single 30-minute register alongside a small seconds sub-dial situated at nine o’clock.
For a watch bearing the Timex name, the movement is finished to a pleasing degree, featuring a rotor with Côtes de Genève (Geneva striping) and blued screws. For the price point it’s asking for — AU$4,050 at the time of writing — it’s quite a looker, especially compared to other movements I’ve seen in and around the same value bracket.
Initial Thoughts
Though often associated with budget-friendly timepieces, Timex has proved through its Atelier branch that it’s not out to mess around. While success as the entry point for most consumers is still worthy of high praise, Timex Atelier watches underscore the brand’s renewed intent to grow alongside its clients.
To go from watches depicting Charlie Brown, Snoopy, and the Peanuts gang to a mature timepiece like this is a considerable leap. It’s one that may take years to fully manifest, but the brand is clearly looking to establish its reputation across the upper end of the market regardless.
To that effect, the Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti is the latest entry in what has become a veritable winning streak for Galli and the Atelier branch. No, I don’t see them moving much further up the hierarchy any time soon. Yet the mere existence of these watches, and what they offer, should put everyone in the middle market — from Seiko to Longines to Raymond Weil — on red alert.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | TW6A02700 (Bracelet) TW6A02800 (Strap) |
| Dimensions | 42mm case diameter x 49.3mm lug-to-lug x 15.75mm thickness |
| Case | Titanium |
| Dial | Black with grey accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Landeron Cal. L72 with chronograph (30min register) & small seconds complication |
| Power Reserve | 43h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Interchangeable self-adjustable titanium bracelet with butterfly clasp Interchangeable black rubber strap with titanium deployant clasp & buckle |