After a few weeks of teases, it’s true – Swatch and Audemars Piguet have joined forces! Together, they’ve announced the unprecedented Royal Pop collection.
On paper, Swatch and Audemars Piguet couldn’t be more different. Both are icons in such distinct senses: Swatch fought fire with fire during the quartz crisis, producing fun, Swiss-made quartz timepieces for the masses; Audemars Piguet established itself at the upper echelon of luxury, elevating the brand during that same period. If you had told watch enthusiasts that these two worlds would eventually collide, they would have laughed in your face.
But in the watch world, never say never. Over the last few years, Swatch has re-established itself as a force in accessible watchmaking. Its Omega collaboration, the MoonSwatch, garnered worldwide acclaim, with queues extending around Swatch stores everywhere. Ensuring models like the Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms cemented the idea that nothing is impossible for the brand, and that you should always expect the unexpected.
In that sense, both Swatch and Audemars Piguet have certainly pulled the figurative rabbit out of the hat. Announced just days before launch, the two brands have unveiled the Royal Pop collection in eight references.
In The Pocket
As indicated, the Royal Pop series are not wristwatches. Sized at 40 mm in case diameter and 8.4 mm in thickness, the collection comes in a long octagonal case complete with a mounted clip system. The case itself measures 44.2 mm in length, extending to 53.2 mm when situated within the clip system.
As always, the case material of choice is Swatch’s Bioceramic, a composite of two-thirds ceramic powder and one-third biosourced material derived from castor oil. Sapphire crystals have also been implemented, both at the front and on the exhibition caseback. However, the collection only sports 20m of water resistance, so it’s best to keep it away from water where possible.
The clip system, also made from Bioceramic, is attached to a high-quality, colour-matched calfskin lanyard. This makes them effectively pocket watches with a twist, allowing them to be worn in several ways. From around the neck or attached to a backpack, all the way to being mounted on a stand as a desk clock, the Royal Pop is perhaps the most versatile and contemporary interpretation of a pocket watch the industry has seen.
A (Royal) Pop Of Colour
Visually, the new Royal Pop line draws from two key icons. One, of course, is the Royal Oak, introduced by Audemars Piguet in the 1970s. The story of its origins is often retold, and one that Sam covered in a two-part series.
The other, however, is the Swatch Pop, which may be lesser known to the average enthusiast. First introduced in 1986, the Pop distinguished itself with its “pop-out” design, where the central watch head can be detached from its frame and clipped onto various accessories, effectively transforming a traditional timepiece into a wearable charm.
Thus, they maintain the Royal Oak’s iconic design language while inserting the fun, colourful aesthetic emblematic of the Swatch Pop. As mentioned, the watch is made entirely from Bioceramic, providing surprising strength, smoothness and vibrancy across eight unique colour arrangements. Interestingly, each colourway’s name appears to correspond to a different language. Huit Blanc, for example, means ‘White Eight’ in French, while Orenji Hachi is Japanese for ‘Orange Eight’.
Across the eight references, the Royal Oak’s design is clearly echoed. The octagonal case profile, hexagonal screws and tapisserie dial have all been carried over from the iconic Gérald Genta design. Depending on the reference, however, the dial layout differs.
Six of the eight models are designed in the Lépine style, with the winding crown positioned at 12 o’clock and only hours and minutes displayed. The other two models, Lan Ba and OTG ROZ, are executed in the Savonnette style. With the crown at 3 o’clock, these versions feature a dial with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.
SISTEM, SISTEM
Turning the watch around, an easier-than-usual feat given its format, you’ll find Swatch’s SISTEM51 calibre, decorated in a Pop Art style. However, this isn’t the same SISTEM51 seen in the Blancpain collaboration, as this version is now manually wound rather than automatic. Beating at 3Hz (21,600VpH) with a 90-hour power reserve, the movement is notable in the watch industry for its completely automated manufacture.
Additionally, the watch features a Nivachron balance spring, developed in collaboration with Audemars Piguet and found within its catalogue. It seems, then, that despite the fun-forward nature of the Royal Pop, both brands have taken the watchmaking aspect seriously. The only drawback of the SISTEM51 is its inability to be serviced, though its lifespan is often quoted at a few years, which aligns with its accessible price point.
Initial Thoughts
Swatch mania has taken over the mainstream industry once again. As I write this, people are lining up, even camping, outside Swatch stores. A collaboration with a brand as prestigious as Audemars Piguet, once thought to be pure fantasy, has been brought to life. Understandably, everyone will want a piece of that legacy.
As a progressive watch lover but somewhat of a purist at heart, I was tempted to dislike this; I genuinely was. But the way both brands have presented the Royal Pop is remarkably tasteful. Not only does it remain within Swatch’s vibrant design philosophy, it also pays tribute to traditional watchmaking.
From the fifty-year-old, unchanged shape of the Royal Oak to the pocket watch format, it brings classical horology into the spotlight for a new generation. And while the prospect of new watch lovers is as exciting as it is nerve-wracking, my advice would be to wait a couple of months before picking one up. They’re not limited, so scalpers will almost certainly have their moment in the sun with this one.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | Two-Handers: Otto Rosso / SSX03R100N Huit Blanc / SSX03W100N Green Eight / SSX03G100N Blaue Acht / SX03L101N Orenji Hachi / SSX03L103N Ocho Negro / SSX03W101N Small Seconds: Lan Ba / SX03L100N OTG ROZ / SSX03J100N: |
| Dimensions | 40mm case diameter x 44.2mm (without clip) /53.2mm (with clip) x 8.4mm thickness |
| Case | Bioceramic in various colours |
| Dial | Bioceramic tapisserie-effect dial in various colours featuring AP x Swatch logo |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Manual-wind Cal. SISTEM51 / with small seconds complication |
| Power Reserve | 90h |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz / 21,600VpH |
| Water Resistance | 20m / 2bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Bioceramic clip system with calfskin lanyard |