With the 210th anniversary of their historic chronograph, there’s plenty for Louis Moinet to celebrate as they release a new 1816 model in champagne!
Watches & Wonders has finally come and gone. The week is over, the brands have gone home, and Geneva’s Palexpo is being cleaned up as the dust settles. But while the global celebration of watches has concluded, the party is only just beginning for Louis Moinet.
You see, the independent brand has not only maintained its position at the world’s biggest watch festival, but it is also celebrating the 210th birthday of the Compteur de Tierces. Discovered in 2012, this pocket-sized, high-frequency instrument is considered the oldest surviving chronograph in the world. Not only that, but it was designed to measure 1/60th of a second for tracking astronomical movements, making it beat at a mind-shattering 30Hz (216,000VpH).
While last year’s Watches & Wonders saw the brand reintroduce the Compteur de Tierces’ design in wristwatch form, sans the 30Hz beat rate, an appropriately regal rendition was required for such a special occasion. Thus, Louis Moinet has proudly introduced the new 1816 chronograph with a golden champagne dial.
Champagne Showers
The new 1816 Champagne Edition does not reinvent the wheel when it comes to case dimensions and wearing experience. It still carries the same 40.6mm case diameter and 14.6mm thickness. As an integrated bracelet watch, it is certainly not lacking in presence, and that should be kept in mind when considering the overall wearing experience.
However, this is offset by the use of Grade 5 titanium, which once again offers excellent strength and lightness. With the entire case and bracelet made from this high-performance material, the watch remains as robust as ever.
Speaking of the bracelet, it tapers elegantly from the upper lug hoods down to the butterfly clasp. Its large, arching links feature champagne DLC-coated sections on the underside. At first glance, it could easily be mistaken for gold, but the use of champagne DLC is a clever choice.
Not only is gold more prone to scratching, it is also much heavier. As such, the champagne DLC-coated links provide a similar glittering appeal without compromising the contemporary wearing experience.
Ticking The Boxes, Inside & Out
As this watch pays tribute to one of the very first chronographs ever made, it would not be right to translate that aesthetic directly onto the dial. Of course, it is not a one-to-one remake. The six o’clock subdial’s numerals encircle it rather than forming a semi-circular arc, and the minute track has been pushed out to feel less restrictive. Nevertheless, it is an incredibly close transformation.
Every element, from the comically large pushers to the sixth-interval minute track, has been carefully considered and included by Louis Moinet. The changes between this reference and the original are clear. For one, the bead-blasted rhodium dial has been replaced with the same golden champagne tone seen on the links.
The Arabic numerals on the 12-hour register at six o’clock have also been swapped for Roman numerals, bringing the 1816 closer to the original piece. The tracks of each subdial, as well as the minute track, remain silver for added contrast, while the exposed screws and second hand match one another in heat-blued steel.
Championing The Chronograph
Once again, Louis Moinet does not change a winning formula when it comes to the movement. The Calibre LM1816, developed exclusively for the 1816, remains in place. With 330 components, the unique positioning of the registers means that form and function dictate one another.
Beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 48-hour power reserve, it continues to serve as the beating heart of the watch. Visible through the open caseback, the brand has elected to forgo a baseplate. This allows the wearer to appreciate the movement in its entirety, with everything from the blued screws to the red rubies on full display.
Initial Thoughts
Paying tribute to one of the oldest chronographs ever made is already a difficult task. Attempting to honour this specific chronograph would seem nearly impossible. Yet Louis Moinet has managed to do just that, successfully translating and championing the original’s design and functions in a modern wristwatch.
They proved it once with last year’s release, but the new champagne dial has cemented the 1816’s place in the permanent catalogue. While the 210th anniversary is certainly worth commemorating, it does not feel like Louis Moinet has positioned this watch as a mere celebration piece. Instead, the latest release highlights not only the brand’s rich and storied history, but also signals how far it is willing to push heritage design into the future.
Reference: 1816-LM-151-20-30
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 40.6mm case diameter x 14.7mm thickness |
| Case | Grade 5 titanium |
| Dial | Bead-blasted champagne |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open |
| Movement | Manual-wind Cal. LM1816 with chronograph (12h, 30min registers) & small seconds complications |
| Power Reserve | 48h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Integrated titanium bracelet with champagne coloured DLC accents & butterfly clasp |