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Chinese independent watchmaker Behrens makes history with their Watches & Wonders debut, unveiling watches inspired by the mysterious Sanxingdui civilisation.

Watches & Wonders is the world’s biggest watch festival. As such, watch lovers and brands from all over the world flock to Geneva to exhibit their timepieces at Palexpo. But while watch lovers come from all walks of life, the brands are rather consistent in origin. Of the 65 brands, the common national identities are Swiss, German, Italian, French or Japanese.

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That’s through no fault of their own. All of these destinations have an incredibly rich horological heritage, having spent centuries perfecting the art and science behind it. Few others have the same capacity to produce such works at scale, but that hasn’t stopped China from rising to the challenge. In recent years, the Chinese watchmaking identity has combined Eastern artistry with raw industrial power, producing its fair share of remarkable watchmakers and brands.

One of these brands, Behrens, has been gaining significant traction. Known for creating highly avant-garde timepieces at relatively accessible price points, its commitment to craftsmanship has garnered worldwide attention. Now, at Watches & Wonders 2026, it makes history as the first Chinese brand to present at the festival, debuting the all-new Pupil collection in the process.

Ultralight-Hearted

The Behrens Pupil collection is offered in two distinct versions, sized at a demure 34mm case diameter and just 5.65mm thick. There isn’t really a lug-to-lug measurement, as the case is lugless, but it measures 39.8mm from tip to tip at its longest point. The first model, encased in titanium, weighs just 14 grams, while still offering the strength and durability we expect. The second model, however, uses a unique compound material called Lightweight Monolayer Graphene Hybrid, or LMGH.

Commonly used in aircraft, graphene is already extraordinarily thin, around one million times thinner than a human hair. Behrens’ LMGH uses graphene as its base, reinforcing it with other materials to form a composite. The result is staggering, producing references that weigh just 8 grams excluding the strap. This effectively makes it the world’s lightest watch, beating the current record set by Ming’s LW.01 at 8.8 grams.

Both references come in asymmetrical trapezium cases, in line with Behrens’ experimental DNA, but flipped so the long side of the case sits on the right rather than the left. Paired with a fluororubber strap across the collection, the Pupil offers a hyper-modern silhouette with a wearing experience that is practically nonexistent.

An Eye For Detail

Beyond its record-shattering lightness and unconventional case design, the Behrens Pupil also reflects the highly industrial aesthetic that made the brand famous. As always, Behrens has embedded a piece of Chinese history into the design, taking reference from the Sanxingdui civilisation. Discovered near modern-day Sichuan in the 1980s, this mysterious Bronze Age site unearthed thousands of ancient artefacts. Among them were recurring depictions of the eye, which the Shu people used to represent the connection between the mortal and divine worlds.

Rather than applying these motifs superficially, Behrens integrates them seamlessly into the dial and movement layout. This is most evident in the bottom-right displaced dial, where the angular hands replicate the shape of Sanxingdui’s iconic Bronze Diamond Eye. This shape appears four times a day, when the hands align at 9:15 and 3:45.

Additional visual elements help reinforce the cultural narrative. The day–night indicator, positioned at the lower left, features a stylised interpretation of the Sun and Immortal Birds gold ornament, reflecting the Shu’s reverence for solar cycles. At the top left, the power reserve indicator again evokes the eye, centred around a black pupil with an attached triangular pointer. Across the collection, variations in colour and material provide distinct identities for each reference.

The graphene models incorporate either gold leaf or platinum leaf, creating a contrast between warmth and cool metallic precision. The titanium versions expand the palette, with finishes in Frost Silver, Obsidian Black, Meteorite Grey and Matte Black. As a whole, the watch departs entirely from conventional dial design. The openworked display reveals the movement in full, while a meteorite chapter ring frames it all, adding texture and depth.

The Watch & Movement As One

While the caseback remains closed, the movement is fully visible from the front. Through the sapphire crystal, the entirety of Behrens’ manual-wind Calibre BM09 can be seen. Delivering 45 hours of power reserve with a standard 4Hz (28,800 vph) beat rate, the openworked layout mirrors the geometric principles of the Pupil.

A power reserve indicator occupies the upper left quadrant, with the aforementioned day–night indicator at the lower left. Interestingly, the bottom-right display is in fact a jump hour, with the hour advancing instantaneously at the top of each hour. Integrated directly into the case rather than built on a traditional mainplate, the movement ensures that watch and case remain in perfect harmony while also shedding even more weight.

Initial Thoughts

Diversity has always been a lacking factor in the world of watchmaking. Not every country can break into the craft easily, or at a high enough standard to command global attention. While there is certainly still room for innovation within a predominantly European industry, it has created a somewhat insular dynamic, where brands draw from the same cultural touchstones. Exceptions exist, such as Japanese brands or the work of Konstantin Chaykin, but they are few and far between. It is becoming increasingly difficult to create something that a seasoned enthusiast has not already encountered.

Behrens is doing something entirely different, producing watches shaped by methods and cultural references largely absent from the European tradition. Their creative and technical language is unbound by convention, allowing it to produce watches that no German, Swiss, French or Italian brand could independently conceive.

The Pupil exemplifies this approach, drawing from one of ancient China’s most mysterious civilisations and translating it into one of the most postmodern timepieces ever created. In doing so, the brand introduces a perspective that is both historically grounded and entirely original, demonstrating the potential for innovative watchmaking not only in China, but across the world.

References: Behrens Pupil LMGH 8g

BHR035GG01 (Black Gold) / BHR035GP01 (Black Platinum)

Specifications:

International Retail Prices: US$33,800

References: Behrens Pupil Titanium 14g

BHR035TIMT01 (Frost Blue) / BHR035TIBK01 (Black & Pink) / BHR035TIMT02 (Grey) / BHR035TIBK02 (Black & Pink Accents)

Specifications:

International Retail Prices: US$9,200

Availability: Limited to 9 pieces each (8g). Available via Behrens or online at BehrensWatches.com

For more Watches & Wonders 2026, check out our full coverage here!