Ever the hyper horologists, Roger Dubuis have dropped a new, version of the Excalibur, with the iconic Biretrograde and Perpetual Calendar!
Roger Dubuis has managed to occupy a unique space in the world of haute horlogerie. The contributions of co-founders Roger Dubuis and Carlos Dias have cemented the eponymous brand within a niche they call ‘hyper horology’. Perhaps the biggest standout of their roster is the Excalibur, which since 2005 has stunned the watch world by merging a notoriously theatrical design language with rigorous traditional mechanics.
Also common within the brand is the biretrograde display, which itself became emblematic of any timepiece touched by Mr Dubuis. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the Richemont brand looks to continue in his stead with the release of a new Excalibur Biretrograde model. Including a new perpetual calendar movement, this piece shows Roger Dubuis’ commitment to reinterpreting classical complications through a contemporary, hyper-maximalist lens.
I’m Seeing A Shrink
For those familiar with Roger Dubuis, you may be surprised to hear that this watch is just 40mm in case diameter and 12.25mm thick. While that might sound like a standard size for wristwatches, Roger Dubuis timepieces have always had a more stately build than most. With an average wingspan of 43–45mm, it is interesting to see brands like Roger Dubuis shrinking down the Excalibur, akin to the 38mm Hommage La Placide.
Despite this, Roger Dubuis has ensured that the wearing experience of the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar remains distinctive. The watch is made entirely out of 18k pink gold, allowing for a lustrous and weighty wrist presence. Additionally, the new model is rated to 100m of water resistance, in line with its hyper-sporty DNA.
The Excalibur’s triple-lug setup also makes a return, attached to a deep blue calfskin strap with a pink gold deployant clasp. While the watch remains visually bold, it is nice to see Roger Dubuis benefit from added comfort and more restrained dimensions, opening up the doors to a wider range of wrists.
No Compromise
The design of the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is defined by depth, layering, and a celestial narrative reinforced by its dial colour, ‘Astral Blue’. Somewhat ironically, the tone is relegated to the mother-of-pearl bridges that weave their way around the openworked dial, itself constructed from multiple layers. Working in conjunction, this creates a three-dimensional stage for the complications to be displayed.
Mounted at 12 o’clock is the month display, a rotating disc of Astral Blue with the month underscored by a gold and red bar. Surreptitiously stored at one o’clock is the leap year indicator, an important component of any perpetual calendar. Six o’clock houses the semicircular moon phase complication, complete with a starry sky of blue aventurine and a golden moon within the rotating disc.
Of all the complications, however, the signature biretrograde display dominates the dial, with the day at nine o’clock and the date at three. As each day passes, the hands move in opposing directions, eventually snapping back to the beginning at the end of each cycle. Despite the complexity, the dial’s proportions remain clear, and the three-dimensional viewing experience allows for easy distinction between complications.
Fine Arts & Sciences
Speaking of complications, Roger Dubuis presents the new Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar with an all-new movement, the Calibre RD850. Beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 60-hour power reserve, the automatic movement serves as the core of the entire operation. As noted, it incorporates a full perpetual calendar system, accurate to the year 2100, while seamlessly integrating the biretrograde mechanism made famous by Mr Dubuis himself.
Another notable feature is the astronomical moon phase, calibrated to the moon’s actual orbital cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. This results in an exceptional level of accuracy, requiring correction only once every 122 years. The inclusion of a dedicated month corrector further enhances practicality, simplifying adjustments for the wearer.
Perhaps Roger Dubuis’ most consistent point of pride is its attainment of the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. Not only does this signify the watch meets stringent standards of finishing and construction, but it also represents an extensive and exacting certification process that ensures it sits at the pinnacle of horological craftsmanship.
Initial Thoughts
The new Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar, released in the year of the collection’s 21st anniversary, stands as a strong expression of Roger Dubuis’ identity. Through its founding biretrograde complication, it elevates tradition with modern design and ambitious dial architecture, producing a watch that feels both grounded and progressive. While some may lament the hyper-modern, razor-sharp aesthetic of Roger Dubuis timepieces, the shrink down to 40mm opens it up to a far wider audience than before.
Between style and substance, this release at Watches and Wonders 2026 strikes a careful balance. This is where Roger Dubuis thrives, as exemplified by the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar and the brand’s wider catalogue. All in all, it reinforces just how committed the manufacture is to maintaining traditional watchmaking values, delivered with its own unmistakably dramatic flair.
Reference: DBEX1178
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 40mm case diameter x 12.25mm thickness |
| Case | 18k pink gold |
| Dial | Openworked with pink gold & ‘Astral Blue’ mother-of-pearl accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. RD850 with Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) certification, biretrograde perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year indicators) & moonphase complications |
| Power Reserve | 60h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100 |
| Strap/Bracelet | Astral Blue calfskin leather strap with pink gold deployant clasp and buckle |