‘Old School Cool’ doesn’t just apply to old men’s watches! Chopard proves this with a new rendition of the heritage-styled L’Heure du Diamant.
Within the dynamic watch industry, there are few brands that can claim to walk between two worlds. I refer to the ever-interlocked disciplines of haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie. The independent brand Chopard is proud to say it is among the chosen few. Since its inception, it has sought new and creative ways to express both its jewellery and watchmaking expertise, refining this through the jewellery watch.
More than a simple timepiece or accessory, the jewellery watch marries jewels, precious metals, and precise mechanics in one. While this can often come across as superfluous, Chopard has always managed to tread the fine line without overstepping either boundary.
L’Heure du Diamant, or Diamond Hours, epitomises this philosophy. Making its debut during the experimental period of the 1970s, L’Heure du Diamant watches used sculptural shapes and natural stone dials as frames for a plethora of gemstones. For Watches and Wonders 2026, the Diamond Hours line returns once again. Chopard has opted to add a brand-new model to the ever-growing roster, one that somehow strikes a perfect balance between stealth and wealth.
All That Glitters
Taking inspiration from the silhouettes of its founding period, the new L’Heure du Diamant is built around a 30.5mm lugless case, measuring 9.3mm thick. The squircle, or rounded square case, is constructed from 18-carat ethical white gold. If you are unfamiliar, ethical white gold is another feather in the brand’s cap. Since 2018, Chopard has only used gold from responsibly managed and regulated mines for its jewellery and watches, ensuring fair wages, safe working conditions, and no child labour.
While this does not directly affect the wearing experience, it is reassuring to know that Chopard’s timepieces are crafted both masterfully and conscientiously. The crown, also in ethical white gold, is set with a 4.50mm briolette-cut diamond, further enhancing its luxurious appearance. The watch maintains an easy-to-wear presence, paired with a black alligator leather strap that provides comfort and surprising durability. With just 30 metres of water resistance, however, it is best kept away from anything more than a rainy day.
A Diamond A Dozen
Of course, the star of the show is the sheer brilliance of the diamonds integrated into L’Heure du Diamant. The periphery of the watch is adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 4.40 carats, creating a radiant frame that enhances its visual impact.
Framed by these brilliant diamonds is an onyx dial, its intense black surface providing a stark contrast to its surroundings. The interplay of light and dark is further enhanced by Chopard’s signature crown-setting technique. Developed by Karl Scheufele III, this method uses V-shaped prongs to set the jewels, permitting more light to penetrate each stone. This, in turn, amplifies their natural sparkle, creating a halo-like effect around the bezel.
Four additional brilliant-cut diamond hour markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock punctuate the dial, adding to the watch’s allure. The hour and minute hands, crafted from 18-carat ethical white gold, are also set with diamonds. It is an uncommon detail, but one that is certainly welcome.
Innovation in the jewellery watch space is often limited, so this feels both thoughtful and surprisingly restrained. Together, these elements form a cohesive design that is bold yet delicately balanced, where every component contributes to an overarching sense of brilliance.
Small But Mighty
For as diminutive as this watch is, it would not be unreasonable to assume it houses a quartz movement. At first glance, that would seem likely, as most jewellery watches follow that path. However, at the beating heart of the watch is the Calibre 09.01-C, operating at 3.5Hz (25,200VpH with a respectable 42-hour power reserve.
Interestingly, it is the same movement Chopard uses in its 36mm Alpine Eagle models. Although it is not COSC-certified, it is reassuring to see such a capable movement in the L’Heure du Diamant. It reflects Chopard’s commitment not just to creating a jewellery showpiece, but also a competent mechanical watch.
Initial Thoughts
Though the new L’Heure du Diamant may appear to be just another jewellery watch, the mechanics and techniques behind its creation make it a compelling timepiece for enthusiasts. It may not be for everyone; at 30.5mm, it leans away from a unisex proposition. Even so, Chopard has executed it to the highest standard. Everything about this watch, from its aesthetics to its mechanics, is on par with the brand’s core offerings.
So while the brilliance of the diamonds and the depth of the onyx may dazzle, do not be misled. The L’Heure du Diamant remains a serious timepiece, and Chopard’s commitment to both high jewellery and watchmaking ensures that both worlds are treated with equal respect.
Reference: 13A386-1109
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 30.5mm lugless case diameter x 9.3mm thickness |
| Case | 18k ethical white gold with briolette-cut diamond set crown |
| Dial | Onyx stone with diamond-set hands & quarter indexes |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | TBC |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 09.01-C |
| Power Reserve | 42h |
| Beat Rate | 3.5Hz / 25,200VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black alligator leather strap with 18k ethical white gold buckle |