The new Cosmic Blue execution gives the Biretrograde Calendar an even stronger visual identity, pairing rich colour with the Maison’s signature mechanical flair!
While biretrograde displays in watchmaking have been around for some time, Mr. Roger Dubuis, the Maison’s founder, believed it should be expressed with simplicity and a certain form of playfulness. He developed the patent for his own biretrograde display in 1989, where his philosophy led to the creation of a simplified construction that enhanced both beauty and performance.
For those that may not know, biretrograde means two retrograde indications. On timepieces that feature this complication, the hands travel across an arc-shaped scale and then instantly snap back to the starting point, rather than moving in a full circle as you would get from a traditional sub-dial. Working alongside Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, Roger Dubuis rethought the mechanism and streamlined its design from a watchmaking perspective.
The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar shows the day and date information in a more expressive, technical, and visually balanced way, rather than showcasing the information through traditional sub-dials and date windows. This is perfect for Roger Dubuis, as it turns practical complications into something that is far more theatrical. Furthermore, it purposely evoked joy and emotion for the wearer, enhancing their experience through a pure yet ingenious mechanism.
This ingenious system does rely on two key technical advances. The first is the use of spiral springs instead of strip springs, positioned directly on the hand pinions rather than on the rake. The second is a redesigned cam, which helps improve the precision and the smooth operation of the retrograde display, allowing the indications to return with greater accuracy and reliability over long periods of use.
There have been several iterations of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar over the years, each bringing different aesthetics and subtle design refinements, but the core concept has always remained the same. That consistency is what makes the complication such an important part of the maison’s identity, with each new version continuing to celebrate the signature display that helped define Roger Dubuis from the very beginning.
A Case Design That Defined Roger Dubuis
While the biretrograde complication stands out on the dial for its unique way of displaying the calendar information, the 40mm case of this timepiece is just as iconic. Roger Dubuis designed the case to be something that is bold and slightly unconventional. Although this is one of the more ‘traditional’ looking designs compared to the other models in Roger Dubuis catalogue, it is still unconventional, giving the watch a strong wrist presence on its own.
Roger Dubuis presents the case and bracelet in 316L stainless steel. The case itself features a vertical brushed finish, while the chamfered edges are polished, giving the watch a more luxurious appeal rather than an overly industrial look, despite its sharp detailing and brushed surfaces.
The bezel certainly helps to elevate the case’s bold design, as it stands out through its distinctive notched design. The triangular cut-outs around the edge of the bezel give the bezel a sharper, sculptural look, which stays perfectly in theme with the rest of the timepiece. Its polished finish also matches the aesthetic finishing of the case and bracelet.
Celestial Inspiration On The Dial
While previous editions of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar featured different case materials combined with subtle colours on the dial, Roger Dubuis has gone for a more classic approach for this Watches & Wonders 2026 release, combining steel with a blue dial. This is what we see on the surface level; however, it is anything but. The blue colour is anything but ordinary, as its a Roger Dubuis colour known as “Cosmic Blue”, “a shade that represents the immense and inspiring sky on Earth, when the daytime blue darkens into night, bringing the curiosities of space into view.”
There are many layers to the dial construction of this Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar. At the top surface is a double-surface flange with a broad azuré finish on top and opaline on the side, coated in Cosmic Blue. Rhodium-plated hour markers with white SLN inside stand out against the deep blue finish to provide crisp legibility. Then, the constant seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, along with the “Biretrograde Calendar” subdial at 12 o’clock feature sunray-brushed finish on recessed counters, which stands out against the main dial’s circular-brushed centre plate with Cosmic Blue coating and beveled angles.
The bitregrade complication on either side of the dial, displaying the date on the 3 o’clock, and the day of the week on 9 o’clock, is also skeletonised, which shows the parts of the Calibre RD840 underneath. The bridges of the movement are decorated in Côtes de Genève finish to add more substance to the dial. While the Cosmic Blue shade stands out beautifully against the rhodium-plated and steel components, the different finishing techniques on the various parts of the dial that carry this colour are really what elevate it aesthetically.
A Certified Movement
At the heart of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar lies the RD840 Calibre. This is an automatic movement delivering 60 hours of power reserve, while operating at a high frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH). The movement has a specifically designed architecture that invites a clear view of its mechanics, especially from the dial side. The design reflects the meticulous craftsmanship required for Poinçon de Genève certification, a hallmark that represents Roger Dubuis’ philosophy of quality, where performance, provenance, and aesthetics are inseparable.
Through the sapphire case back, the wearer can admire the beauty of the sculpted oscillating weight, which is inspired by the Maison’s first design from 1996, now reinterpreted with a contemporary edge. While the majority of the movement is closed off from view on the reverse side, the finishing techniques still speak to Roger Dubuis’ commitment to high-end watchmaking, with the calibre crafted to meet the prestigious Poinçon de Genève standard.
“Every component of the Calibre RD840 is hand-decorated to meet this exacting benchmark, with 14 finishing techniques that include wheel-bevelling, burnisher bevelling, frosting, circular graining, Côtes de Genève, truing, internal drawing, external drawing, rounding, perlage, tip polishing, mirror polishing, tooth polishing, and rounded tooth polishing.”
Roger Dubuis
Initial Thoughts
Given how closely the biretrograde complication is tied to the brand’s identity and history, it seems like a fitting move to update it with one of the brand’s signature colours. While the brand today is often associated with bold, highly expressive creations, the Biretrograde Calendar reminds us of Roger Dubuis’ more classical side, where mechanical ingenuity and bold design come together in a way that felt both elegant and unconventional.
The cosmic blue tones certainly elevate the timepiece aesthetically, but it is the different finishing techniques that really make this Cosmic Blue model stand out. The combination of contrasting textures and light-catching surfaces gives the watch a greater sense of depth, ensuring the blue dial feels full of life rather than flat or one-dimensional.
A compelling shade that is expressed through fine watchmaking and the Maison’s own signature designs, it is this balance of elegance, technical refinement, and visual identity that makes the timepiece still feel bold on the wrist, while being a modern design.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specifications |
|---|---|
| Reference | Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Cosmic Blue |
| Dimensions | 40mm x Approx. 11.25mm thick |
| Case | 316 Stainless steel with vertical brushed and polished finishing |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides |
| Dial | Cosmic blue dial with multi-layer construction. Retrograde date and day-of-the-week functionality. Constant seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. |
| Caseback | 316 stainless steel and sapphire crystal |
| Movement | Automatic RD840 Calibre beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds; retrograde date and retrograde day-of-the-week |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres (10 ATM) |
| Strap | Multi-link bracelet in stainless steel. An additional blue rubber strap is also included. |