Watches & Wonders 2026: Zenith takes the Chronomaster Sport to a new level of luxury with a two-tone rose gold and steel model, complete with a new Mother-of-Pearl dial.
The Zenith Chronomaster Sport has fast become iconic for Zenith, even though the collection is still relatively new. It arrived in 2021 at a point where Zenith was in the middle of tightening up its core collections and putting more focus on what it does best and is famous for – chronographs. Rather than being a clean-sheet design, it was introduced as a modern continuation of the Chronomaster line, bringing together elements from past models but with more modernity.
Today, the Chronomaster Sport sits as the cornerstone of Zenith’s chronograph offering. While the broader Chronomaster lineup explores different variations with the El Primero at its heart, the Sport line is positioned as the most versatile, everyday option. It bridges heritage and modern expectations without going too far in either direction.
It’s also become the platform Zenith has continued to build on, from standard steel models through to more elevated executions, reinforcing its role in the brand’s collections through Zenith’s chronograph story. And today, there is a new elevated version in two-tone rose gold and a mother-of-pearl (MOP) dial.
Upscaling The Chronomaster Sport
The story this year for Zenith at Watches & Wonders is the Chronomaster Sport, with a sprinkling of G.F.J, that is. And this new piece slots right in between the sporty skeleton models released and the high-end full rose gold and diamond bezel model as part of that. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport bridges the sports/luxury watch incredibly well.
The new Chronomaster Sport MOP fits the same dimensions that we have come to know in the collection. A 41 mm case diameter by 47mm lug-lug, and 13.6mm thick. Zenith has given the watch an 18k rose gold bezel, central bracelet links, crown and pushers, which takes the watch to a more formal level, without overdoing it.
The bracelet still has the older style clasp on this watch, compared to the new bracelet and clasp on the new skeleton models, which I feel Zenith could have changed on this. That said, I had reservations about this clasp on the core collection, but having worn multiple Chronomaster Sports for review, it becomes a non-issue after the first few wears.
The Mother-Of-Pearl Dial
Zenith has multiple rose gold and two-tone models in the collection, but this model differs in its dial. Mother-of-pearl is considered a precious stone, even though it is from an oyster. Mother-of-pearl dials start with the inner shell layer of, most commonly, oyster shells, where the nacre naturally forms in thin, iridescent layers. The material is carefully cut into very thin slices, then stabilised and shaped to dial dimensions.
This process has to be done very carefully and requires a light touch, as it’s brittle and prone to cracking. From there, it’s polished to bring out the natural lustre and colour variation, before any of the dial details and elements are applied. No two pieces are identical, which is ultimately the appeal for watch collectors, as each dial carries its own subtle differences in tone and pattern.
On this new model, the Mother-of-Pearl dial takes on a pearlescent grey-pink look, which complements the steel of the case and bracelet and perfectly contrasts the rose gold hands, indices and star logo. The tri-colour subdials, Zenith’s calling card when it comes to the Chronomaster line, are present yet again, in rose gold, grey and silver, and the small date window sits nicely between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers, and in a semi-colour-matched background.
The overall result is a dial that keeps the look of the watch sporty and consistent with the Chronomaster Sport line. If Zenith had leaned a little more into the full white pearl style, I feel this would have detracted from the look and the design codes that make the Chronomaster Sport what it is.
A High-Beat Calibre
Turn the new Chronomaster Sport two-tone over, and you see the El Primero Calibre 3600 through the sapphire caseback. It’s a well-finished movement, with the blue column wheel, neatly executed bridges, and a skeletonised rotor shaped in the form of the Zenith star, which is something I personally like from a design perspective. It opens up the movement that Zenith has partly openworked to an extent to see much of the inner workings.
If you’re not familiar with the El Primero Calibre 3600, this is an extension of Zenith’s famous movement that was saved during the height of the quartz crisis by Zenith watchmaker Charles Vermot. You can read more about the story in our Trip To The Zenith Manufacture last year. But, in a nutshell, Charles Vermot decided to take matters into his own hands and protect the movement by cataloguing all the parts of the El Primero, and proceeded to hide them in the Manufacture’s attic when the mechanical watch division was being shut down.
The Calibre 3600 beats at 36,000 VpH, or 5Hz, and has a 60-hour power reserve. Thanks to the high-beat movement, the chronograph can measure up to 1/10th of a second, making the timing more accurate than conventional chronographs.
Initial Thoughts
The Chronomaster Sport has been a hit for Zenith since its launch. In the first year or so, it did have its detractors, but I feel that has been alleviated these days as it is a collection with a design code that leans into the historical Chronomaster models with the modern sports chronograph look people like. I, for one, am a fan of it.
The new two-tone mother-of-pearl dial is yet another variation that gives people an option of a more elegant or formal version of the watch. For some people, two-tone sits just right, and for others, not so much. I used to fall into the former category, but in recent years, I’ve come around to two-tone watches. But the watch has to be done right – not all two-tone watches are the same.
The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport two-tone, like the current models, blends sport and luxury well. The grey/pink-toned mother-of-pearl dial sits nicely with the rose gold accents on the dial, and is reminiscent of the current steel and rose gold, with the grey dial, although it does lose the blue subdial in favour of the gold, and the dial writing in white vs the current black works too. Overall, a good release that complements the skeleton dial releases for those who want that additional golden touch.
Reference And Specifications
| Feature | Specifications |
|---|---|
| Reference | 03.3120.3600/76.M3100 |
| Dimensions | 41mm diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, 13.6mm thick |
| Case Material | Brushed and polished steel with 18k rose gold bezel, crown, & pushers |
| Dial | Mother-of-pearl dial with tri-coloured sub-dials, date at 4:30 & gold-plated hands & indices |
| Crystal | Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating on the inside |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Movement | El Primero 3600 high-frequency automatic, 36,000 VpH (5Hz), 1/10th second chronograph |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds. Chronograph with 1/10th second, seconds & minutes |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Bracelet | Stainless steel with brushed outer and polished 18k rose gold inner links, folding clasp |